BillFitzmaurice.info

billkatz wrote: Yes - the paragraph is there, and I did leave one panel in each horn sequence untrimmed - 2/3/5 and 5/6/7 knowing I'd have to fit them together. Hopefully I didn't shoot myself in the foot too badly.

No probs, hope it works out for you just fine...

Bman wrote:This is how I made my handle templates. I hope this helps.
(Click on the graphic to see it full size.)

This is quite helpful.

When I cut the handle holes on my Omni-15 I found that I could do very nice plunge cuts with my 18V LXT Makita circular saw rather than using my jig saw. Adding the blocks in order to use the pattern-following router bit in order to make the pattern is a very good idea - Thanks!

Bman wrote:This is how I made my handle templates. I hope this helps.
(Click on the graphic to see it full size.)

This is effin' genius! Where were you last year when I was fighting with my $13 jigsaw, trying to cut a straight line? Huh, where were'ya? /shakes fist

J/K. Between learning how to do a rising cut on the TS (thank you, Bruce) and buying a real jigsaw, I'd be good to go now. Of course, NOW I'm DONE building cabs.

this was me with my jigsaw----> <----these were the 6 or 233 templates I ruined before getting one right.

NOW I'm DONE building cabs.

Not buying that one........

Thanks to Bman for the template-making instructions. A fresh 1 1/2" Forstner bit and my new router made a usable template on my first try. I just had to do a little filing and sanding at the 4 bumps where the flat side meets the hole. The router is making nice cuts. Now I've got 20 of these handle holes to make for a pair of T39s. Slow and steady, but I am making some progress.

billkatz wrote: Now I've got 20 of these handle holes to make for a pair of T39s. Slow and steady, but I am making some progress.

Be sure to wear a dust mask - router dust is deadly in large doses.

I spent a lot of time asking questions to get the handles done right. I decided to with quarter round inside, inside surfaces not rounded over, and handles 1/2" from one side and 1" from the other (to account for plywood overlap.) Thank you for those that clarified this.

Here are a set of pictures to build a set of handles.

First I took a scrap of BB, along with a piece of quarter round, and drew a line to set the edge. Then I drew the ovals from the template. Followed by 4 3/8" holes for the rough cut with a circular saw and jigsaw.

Then I routed the holes out with a template.

I now have 10 of 18 of the handles done, except for the final outside round-over.

Here's one picture that got dropped - the initial sizing with quarter round.

A little more progress - 16 handle holes cut (all but the ones on the front of panel 10, since that gets trimmed to size later) and teh outside surfaces rounded off. I also ordered my kits and casters from Leland. Once I rout out the caster slots in the back and bottom I can start assembling, and when my drivers arrive, I can rout out the speaker mounting holes. I'm hoping the actual assembly goes quickly!

Today's task - Driver anchors.

I bought the Milescraft router circle jig, and it works pretty well. My other new tool use today in my new brad nailer, used to secure the anchor (in areas that will be cut away later) to my sacrificial table board. I really like how this works - I can see how it will be easier attaching panels than drilling pilot holes and putting in screws.

Next task will be the larger holes in panel two.

Really, really nice work Bill.

Hackomatic wrote:Really, really nice work Bill.

Thanks - I've learned a lot hanging around here...

I got some more work done today - although I would have gotten even more if I didn't spend half a day (unsuccessfully) trying to fix the electric sliding door on our Honda Odyssey. My boxes from Leland arrived today - boy those 3012LFs are light!
Fresh off the driver anchors (and with drivers in hand) I routed the holes in Panel 2 for the drivers. BTW - the dimensions on the Emminence data sheet are spot on. You can rely on them for cutting the holes.

Then it was time to break open the first tube of PL for this project, and glue the anchors to panel 2. I can now see how the brad nailer is much faster - after clamping the anchors in place I shot the brads in to hold things together. Very satisfying.

Then I worked on the "drill holes through both sides" step. I squared up the sides, clamped them together, and drilled the holes at each end of each panel. My next picture is of the second side with the lines drawn connecting the holes.

I also cut the slots for the casters into panels 8 & 10. My first mistake of the build - I knew that one slot had to be longer than the other by 1/2? to account for the overlap at the corner, but I cut the longer slots into panel 10 by mistake. This appears to be a non-fatal mistake (I don't have to throw panel 10 away) for a few reasons: 1) it's on the bottom of the cabinet 2) the flanges on the casters come up to cover the hole 3) It's in the triangle behind panel 11, so airtightness is not a factor.

Now, with most of the cutting done, the assembly will speed up. Panels 1 & 2 are up next.

I got started on actual assembly today - adding panels 1 and 2 to the side.

For panel #1 I found some really neat 90-degree clamps at Home Depot. Good PL squeezeout and quick assembly with the brad nailer.

For panel #2 everything squared up very nicely. I was able to use the jig I built for the last project. Again, the brads went quickly although they give less reassurance than the tight squeeze you get when you pull the panels together with the screws. However the fit of the panels cut on the table saw is so much better. Everything just fits perfectly.

I'll get the second cab caught up to this one before I add panel 3.

billkatz wrote:However the fit of the panels cut on the table saw is so much better. Everything just fits perfectly.

+100!
I know the plans say you can build these things with a circular saw, but I can't fathom doing such. My DeWalt table saw has more than paid for itself in my mind . . . especially considering that it with a Freud blade was only $78.