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Hmm, OK. I will patch mine then. Easy enough to do. One really nice thing about the T48s is that driver chamber is large. Plenty of room to move around. Thanks, Sine.

miked wrote:I tell my wife all the time "Honey, this gear will make us money!" What women don't get is that you have spend some money in order to make money. It is the way of the world.

Some would say they are a strange breed of cattle...

miked wrote:So, Grant, are you saying that b/c I'm using the old plans, I do not have to patch my baffle tear-outs?

I thought you were saying that the gasket would cover tear out of baffle material so don't worry about it. If that's not the case, I misunderstood
As you know, the older plans have the driver mounted in chamber itself, so it's front mounted to the baffle, as are some of the other designs.
I was only trying to say with the latest titan designs that tear out absolutely needs addressing as the driver is rear mounted. I would have thought it needed addressing in the older design as well...

Charles Jenkinson wrote:... I figure its worth having the full 8mm hole through so screw alignment goes ok on refitting the driver.

"You chose...wisely."

miked wrote:Hmm, OK. I will patch mine then. Easy enough to do. One really nice thing about the T48s is that driver chamber is large. Plenty of room to move around. Thanks, Sine.

Wait till you get side 2 on

3 panels per cab installed tonight, one of which is (one of the) the lab12 mod chamber reducer(s). I've given over with using jigs now there are other panels to position against.

I'm going to mount the speakon socket/cable where the long piece of yellow tape is, on panel 6 in the lower horn mouth. The cabs, in terms of sockets, will be handed - one cab the wiring goes on the side panel, the other cab it crosses between panels 5/6 on the upper most brace, so it can be run to the other side. The idea of handing is that the cables are kept on the floor in the horn mouths when V plated. The holes drilled through the baffle for the speaker wire are shown by the short pieces of yellow tape. The speaker cable installation implications have to be considered much earlier than implied in the plans, or, for example, drilling through multiple installed panels in one go has to be done.

Good to see that your are thinking two steps ahead, Charles. It simply must be done on DIY cabs where there are a few different options to consider. Just make sure any holes you drill for wire are absolutely air-tight. Build is looking good!

Very clean Charles I like it!! Keep them pics coming!

Charles Jenkinson wrote:I'm onto something worth reporting at last. Here's how I marked the holes. Drop the driver onto its baffle spacer mounting face upside-down, and let the speaker casting webs centre the driver to the hole it sits over. This gets the driver bang on centre to the hole cut-out. The M6x40 screws have a raised outer edge, so a mild hit with a hammer marks the hole positions.

Arrrghhh! Now I read this, just after having a nightmare with mine!!

Not to be outdone by all the other builders!, here's a little calc I've done to utilise the hole cutters I have, the router straight bits I have and the guide plates that can fit to the bottom of the router. I don't have a router follower bit where the bearing is above the cutter - mine is where the roller bearing is below the cutter!, but I don't have a hole saw the exact size I want, so talk about many ways to skin a cat,...Here's the spreadsheet that calculates 'Hole saw dia. - router guide dia. + router bit dia.' to end up with a recess hole diameter of 54mm (in faint red), which is just a bit bigger than the (2" dia.) flanged NL4MPR Neutric speakon connectors. It should all make sense in the following post where I'll add the pictures. I'm gonna machine the recess 3 to 4mm deep - I don't have the flanged NL4MPR's yet, so that's a guess. Any corrections welcome! The connectors are going on panel 6, and being handed, to the right and left sides for the two cabs I'm building. A 6mm backing piece is going onto the panels for screws to bite into. The centre hole I'll take out with a 25mm flat bit I have - I wouldn't be so generous on clearance if I wasn't using the flanged speakon connectors for this.

The pictures that explain the above... This routing has to be done before the panel is installed. The speaker wire has to go in at the same time as the panel is installed too, so the spade connectors and parallel wires also have to be done now.

And here are the finished routed recessed pockets, with 6mm thick backing discs.

Looking good there Charles. I really don't understand some of your math, but I know if I tried explaining some of mine it would make as much sense!! In my head it works and that's what is important.

BTW are we now locked in a battle to the death to see who can finish 1st?? I have to take a few days off as I have no PL or wood atm, so this is your chance to take the lead

A battle to the death?: Hardly, I think. I'm not that chivalrous. You win! In competitive situations, I generally take the view that if i can't win, I don't take part.

The maths was the diameter values in the sketch: 68-30+16 = 54mm, the diameter of the flange recess cut out.

Granted, i do sometimes think routing flange recesses is going a bit far, but I guess its my nod in the direction of a professional look, especially when I'm not intending putting castors or butterfly clamps on them. If i was loading 4 pairs in and out of a truck regularly i might add these other bits, but for up to 4 subs total I dont feel its worth it, when a 20 quid folding hand cart does the job.

Charles Jenkinson wrote:A battle to the death?: Hardly, I think. I'm not that chivalrous. You win!

I'm not so sure I do... You are building 2 cabs at once... I am only building one then the other one... It will be interesting to see who finishes first. The winner then has to travel the length of the country to help the other one finish... Much nicer than battles to the death (although they can be fun too!!)