2 x Jack 112 Lite

[Grant Bunter]

Hi Charles,

Can't help you with the phase plug question, haven't built a J10L, nor have the plans.

Piezo testing: Power the first (and consequent piezo) with a radio tuned (well really it's untuned) between stations. It doesn't have to be high volume, just enough output to make a noise. Yes parallel is fine for checking polarity. If volume goes up, polarity is correct. If volume goes down, polarity is reversed.

Piezo cutting: I have a 60 tooth THT blade on my compound mitre saw. Perfect for this job.
Yes, that's different from a bench saw, but some of the principles are the same. I found if you rush the cut (push to hard or to fast), you can get some chunky loss (ie you might take off a small corner fragment) rather than cracking. IMO what you have to most careful of is cutting the barrel (and part of the screw in that barrel as well). Just work the piezo through steadily but slowly, expect some sparks from screw heads. Wear a heavy glove on the hand holding the piezo to stop high velocity plastic hurting/distracting you.

PL nozzle size: The nozzle can be whatever size you like!
If you squeeze hard enough on your gun and move slowly you will put out heaps more PL than you need to, regardless of nozzle size. All you really want is a consistent bead along the entire joint line, that oozes out when you either screw or nail the panel(s) together. It is common for most people to use more PL than they need to when first building.

Hope this helps...

[Charles Jenkinson]

Thank you Grant. I will read again and inwardly digest. No show stoppers yet, AND I've started cab assembly. The combination of paternity hols and christmas hols has got the show on the road. However, the new baby is still getting us up in the night, so i have to tread carefully, or its banging head and throbbing behind the eyes, and thats without inhaling PL fumes or downing a few tinnies while I nail gun away. Have decided not to post pics until it looks more like a box. Even then I might make a video instead - a much better medium for conveying info.

[kekani]

For the phase plugs, I'd follow the plans, or make them closer and follow the shape of the cone. There's a few discussions that cover this if you search. I tried looking at my Jack112L build thread, but I didn't load a pic of my inner phase plug, which I shaped out of foam. I just realized how old that thread is because I had to go 3 pages in!

For the tweets, slow is good, and order extra. I did the reverse thing do I didn't have to cut through the screws. The second time around (after the Jack 112Koa) I found it easier to glue the tweets together then cut the angle. Did it that way on my Jack 110L speed build as well.

[Charles Jenkinson]

Thanks Aaron.

It's 1:20am, but I figure 'what the heck', I'm on holiday, the kids and my wife are in bed, and I may have to get up yet to jiggle new born, ...so i thought I'd cover tonight's progress. Below is a scrap right angle assembly i made when setting up my new nail/staple gun. I clamped it through the enlarged tophat hole (ref: tilting top hat) so I could put the baffle onto the glue in the 'easy side up' position.

[Charles Jenkinson]

Here's the baffle with a second clamp holding it onto the right angled piece, in the bob on position. Now it can be turned over and stapled easily.

[Charles Jenkinson]

After stapling. Yes, its been stapled. It's not easy to see, but thats the only difference between the last piccie and this one.

[Charles Jenkinson]

Tonight's progress. Cab-tastic!

[Grant Bunter]

Hey Charles,
Looking great so far.
Not sure if it's in the plans.
However, now would be a good time to add a couple of pieces of ply 1/2-3/4" wide around your top hat cut out. Gives the screws something a bit meatier to bite into...

[kekani]

Hey Charles,
Looking great so far.
Not sure if it's in the plans.
However, now would be a good time to add a couple of pieces of ply 1/2-3/4" wide around your top hat cut out. Gives the screws something a bit meatier to bite into...

Grant has it right with the extra pieces. I mentioned this in my Jack 110L speed build for the feet, but not the tophat. For the tophat, I did a spacer on the outside, all 1/4", which I think was more than enough because the cab is so light.

The build is looking good. Got me some flashbacks. . .

[AntonZ]

After stapling. Yes, its been stapled. It's not easy to see, but thats the only difference between the last piccie and this one.

Not easy to see indeed, gotta love those Guinness staples.


Your new avatar pic is great by the way

[Scott Brochu]

Pulling up a chair.
Nice build.

[Charles Jenkinson]

Should have guessed it. Progressed slowed, ...but then, no point rushing and getting it wrong.

Here's a short build video I made last night. It's self explanatory apart from I say baffle a few times when I mean brace...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLG33q2w ... e=youtu.be

...and now for the mod's, ..."oh bloody hell Charles, you can't do that"

[Charles Jenkinson]

Using 100mm spacer blocks to position the braces before stapling. And my helper.

[Charles Jenkinson]

All stapled up. My wife thinks it would make a nice lamp shade.

[Charles Jenkinson]

Corner braces installed in the back, fixing baffle to bottom and top panels.