I just got back from vacation yesterday. Thanks everyone for all of your creative ideas on how to solve my issue with the raised access flange. I had some time to think about it over vacation and decided that the easiest least intrusive approach would be to just flush trim the bad access flange and do it over again.
So today I did just that. I used my jigsaw to make the end cuts and the router with a flush trim to remove the flanges. The jigsaw did a little damage to the inside of panel 3 but nothing a little wood filler can't fix. It turned out alot better than I thought and didn't take more than a couple of hours.
Tomorrow, after the wood filler dries I'll permanently fix this back in carefully with PL ensuring it doesn't bow like last time.
If you are so inclined, you can route a gasket relief in the flange for a gasket.
This lets your cover sit flush on the flanges and even with the panel.
The alternative is routing the cover for a gasket.
I prefer the flange routing, because it keeps the air tight surface on the inside edge where the pressure is found. YMMV.
My biggest worry is that when I'm dead and gone, my wife will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them.
Buy standard washers and spray paint them. I've done the same thing with screw heads before, and it works fine. The paint may wear off with time, but if they're not constantly rubbing against another surface, they should hold the paint for a long time. And you can always do touch up later.
Dave
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
I've been playing around w/ hornresp trying to model the THT, and from what I can tell, the Dayton DVC will give you 3dB+ more energy from 25-35Hz than the Reference HF (corner loaded). From 22Hz down, it is almost identical. You should be able to put in around 20-22 Volts (80-95 Watts) without exceeding Xmax. If you high-pass at the Xmax peak of 19Hz, or with crafty equalization, you can put in lots more power. The driver excursion graph has peaks and valleys throughout, dominated by the 19Hz peak. You are still gonna get a lot of sound for those 80 Watts...
My models could be way off, but I'm sure Bill will chime in if they are. I just wanted to see how the DVC stacked up against the Reference HF....I am very curious to see how the distortion profile is for the DVC. The Reference HF begins having distortion problems for me from around 16Hz and on below, but only when driven past my max volume level for watching movies (I like volume limiters on receivers).
Oh, if you want black washers, check out mcmaster.com. Their shipping is usually pretty quick, and you can overnight the things if you want. Personally, I'd just paint them.
Thanks for the help guys. I'll just buy some regular washers and paint them. Which type of alloy works best for painting?
MaxMercy: Thanks for the info on the DVC. I am looking forward to testing it out and measuring it with REW. Count on me posting measurements and graphs.
Regarding the difference of the RF vs DVC. I'd also like to hear Bills thoughts on HornResp's predictions. I've heard different things about HornResp. I know it's not as accurate as it could be for the folks modeling Tapped Horns. Folded Horns being a different animal though.
So I used the "Bgavin access panel spacing method™" to ensure there was an equal gap around the access panel. The gap is about 1/8" (the kerf of the circular saw blade). Is this normal? From other pics I have seen that were finished cabs the gap looks tighter. Perhaps the PL fills it in a bit?
myn wrote:So I used the "Bgavin access panel spacing method™" to ensure there was an equal gap around the access panel. The gap is about 1/8" (the kerf of the circular saw blade). Is this normal?
You're just fine.
The kerf gap will mostly disappear when you spray it with flat black paint and/or Duratex the box.
Remember the seal is in the gasket, not the gap.
I don't like my access covers sticking up any higher then the surrounding panel, so I route a gasket relief.
My biggest worry is that when I'm dead and gone, my wife will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them.
My gap is only slightly tighter because I make the panel separately, not using the cutout. No worries, that panel looks just fine...nice and even all the way around. Just curous, will the access panel be visible when in-room, or are you just preparing for it in case it is?
Steel washers (not galvanized) in my opinion paint best, but need to be degreased well and primed, then painted. To tell the truth though, just use plain washers when you initially test while you have some black oxide ones on order as you are painting the cab (and waiting for the coats to dry and harden)...saves the hassle of painting and priming, unless that's somehting you enjoy...
Hornresp has been continuously improved, but still does not offer enough horn segments to perfectly model the THT, and no provision for any type of folding... The fact that you can use an Offset Driver configuration helps tremendously to model the TT and THT, which have no real compression chamber, just the driver firing into one side at the throat end of the horn. Every model I use has the DVC giving more output from 25Hz on up, most noticeably in the first 10Hz or so. As it should be, as the DVC is as close to the Tempest as you are going to get. I am mainly wondering about the below-horn-loading distortion performance of the DVC, because that's why I bought the Reference HF driver...when horn loaded, I have as much bass as I can handle....until I build mains that can play at 105dB with less than 5% THD....not any time soon...
Today I stopped into Lowes on the way home from work to look for some washers. While in there I found some really nice black oval head (SEMS) screws. These were exactly what I had imagined wanting before I made the decision to go with socket caps and a washer. As I had already spent $11 on the 25 socket caps from Madisound I felt like it was out of the question to spend $1.00 each on 25 more new black oval heads ($25 total), even if they would fit my application needs perfectly.
In any case I left Lowes with some washers that will would work with my socket caps but those screws that were so perfect were bugging me. I wanted them.. So instead of working on the THT like I should have tonight, I scoured the interwebs looking for a better price on the same screws I found at Lowes.
Lone behold Clips And Fasteners sells a 50 pack of them for $7.18 so I ended up buying them tonight.
The bad news is this will delay the project as I really want to fit the access panel and test before I apply the paint and Duratex. I figure I've taken this much time so far and tried todo everything the right way. Another 4 days isn't going to kill me.
Anyone ever use these Oval Head SEMS screws before?
I have, they work well. Specialty screws are a huge profit center for everybody at retail. And they should be, the array you have to stock to get a rep for having it, and the very slow sales requires it. Just ask the old Hardware store owner.
Since I only build PA stuff, I never come to the Home Theatre/Stereo/Auto Sound forum. I popped in today and I really wish I would have seen this post before I built my T39s! There is some great stuff in this thread! Good work on your Tubas and great post!
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
While I wait for my black oval head (SEMS) screws to arrive I started doing the last few things needed before I bring the enclosure back inside to finish up the latex paint and Duratex. Tonight I cut the hole in the access panel cover for the speaker terminal cup. Since I am paranoid about leaks I also used some more PL on the underside of the access panel flanges, ensuring there was not a single leak.
I've used this speaker terminal cup on past builds and it's worked out well. It supports up to 8ga bare wire and banana plugs. It comes with a nice closed-cell gasket as well.
