T48 Build Thread

[ejh2854]

"Toxic" in a literal sense (i.e., poisonous), or just d*mned stinky/unpleasant?

Nice build thread!

[Rune Bivrin]

Well, he's still around to write posts, so at least they're not fatally toxic

[Bruce Weldy]

Well, he's still around to write posts, so at least they're not fatally toxic

He's from NYC, so he's immune to toxic air.

[miked]

Today was just...not great. Got a very late start and was about to start installing the caster braces into the cab when a little voice said "Hey, dipsh!t. You might wanna check that stuff you did there...." Last night I did not follow my own Rule #2: Stop When You Are Tired. I laid out and drilled the pilot holes for the casters when I was really shot, and today, it showed. I laid a caster on a brace and the holes were a bit off. No biggie. Grabbed another brace; holes were really off. Next brace? Same. Craaaaaaaap. Flipping the brace around and redrilling was an option, but some of the holes would be too close together. Being that these braces will not be reachable once panel 11 is in, I had to redo them. No problem; I have lots of scrap wood. But not enough 2x4 scrap. CRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP! Off to Lowes I went.

So I recut all 8 caster braces and PROPERLY laid out and drilled the pilot holes for the caster mounting screws. They are good to go now. I got the braces installed, but not the triangular pieces that box in the brace; that'll be tomorrow, along with panel 11.

Shot of the caster braces in. Think this will reinforce the bottom panel a wee bit? Hell yeah.




It was easy enough to hold the brace nearest the open side of the cab, but I couldn't reach the lower brace. How do I hold it in place so I can screw it in? Tried clamps but it's at a 45-degree angle so that didn't work too well. Necessity is the mother of invention, right? A simple 3" screw gave me a handhold. Of course, this caster hole is one of two that have a bit of "oops" in them. No matter. Once it's all sanded and Duratexed, nobody will see it. It's at the bottom of the cab anyway.


And that's all I could do tonight. I got a late start. Tomorrow I'll "box in" the braces w/the triangle pieces I already have cut. I started thinking about how to bolt down the access panel. How's this look? I think it's a solid and safe way to go. 20 screws.


And finally, this pic. Just because I think it looks badass.

[DJPhatman]

Those are some fine a$$ looking cabs you are working on, Mike! I am very excited for you to finish, but be patient. Stop working yourself so hard, and break the work up into smaller time periods, so you are not so tired and more prone for making mistakes. While these little mistakes may not "hurt" you, they do cause you undo stress and lower the enjoyment factor of building. Take a break, and treat the missus to an evening together, just chilling out. This will give you a real boost when you come back to the project.

I started thinking about how to bolt down the access panel. How's this look? I think it's a solid and safe way to go. 20 screws.

Mike, I would start with a screw in each of the corners, as that seems to be a very common leak point. Then, make it in half, then half again, keep sectioning the cover by half until there is 4-6" between each screw.

[miked]

Got the caster wells boxed in and panel 11 installed.

Not pretty, but don't need to be. I killed 3/4's a tube of PL just putting these things on. They are solid as a rock.




Shot of panel 11 in place. Casters are completely sealed off from the cab.


And now various pics of all the cabs with panel 11 in place.





And this one, just because.


I was going to paint tomorrow, but I think I will install the 6/10 braces first. I see no reason to go through the hassle of taping off where they mount and then having to paint the braces later. With the 6/10 braces in, I can paint the entire mouth/throat area before slapping that second side on.

[hifibob]

Haha I get so mad at myself for making mistakes. I see your no different! Your kicking ass with your build my friend.

[miked]

I've run into a bit of a problem and could use some advice. On 2 of the cabs, the bottom panel is a bit warped towards the open side of the cab, making the 6/10 brace not fit correctly on that side. I.E. the braces does not sit fully into the mouth at it's stock length. The braces are maybe 1/2" too long.

I have tried bending the bottom panel (a little bit...didn't force it) to see if I could get the brace in there, but the bottom panel won't budge. Being that I've got those blocks of 2x4" in there as caster braces, the bottom panel is solid...it aint' moving.

So what do I do? Trim the braces a little shorter on the straight end so they'll fit/slide further into the mouth? Something else? Thanks.

[Bruce Weldy]

Trim the braces a little shorter on the straight end so they'll fit

Yes.

[ncgrove]

I've run into a bit of a problem and could use some advice. On 2 of the cabs, the bottom panel is a bit warped towards the open side of the cab, making the 6/10 brace not fit correctly on that side. I.E. the braces does not sit fully into the mouth at it's stock length. The braces are maybe 1/2" too long.

I have tried bending the bottom panel (a little bit...didn't force it) to see if I could get the brace in there, but the bottom panel won't budge. Being that I've got those blocks of 2x4" in there as caster braces, the bottom panel is solid...it aint' moving.

So what do I do? Trim the braces a little shorter on the straight end so they'll fit/slide further into the mouth? Something else? Thanks.

I'd just trim the braces to fit. If the cab ends up being a little warped, no one will notice. If you need to, you can shim the corner protectors (if you are going to use them) to get the cab to lay flat. I'd just stack #8 flat washers under the corners to get it to work. Might not even need to do that. If you are using rubber feet, you can just shim with fender washers.

[miked]

Thanks guys. The cabs are currently laying either on their sides or backs, and they seem to be flat so far. I'll trim the braces.

[miked]

Need some advice, please.

When drilling the driver mounting holes in the spacer rings, I had a bunch of ply-tearout. Most of the tears are either on the inside or outside edge of the mounting hole, but some span from inside to outside. This would obviously cause a bad leak, so I'm going to patch the tear and sand it smooth.

What material should I use to patch the tearout? I have both Elmer's Wood Putty and Spackle.

I've had good luck using Spackle to patch the outside of the cab but i'm hesitant to use it in a "high pressure" application like right under the driver gasket. Thanks.

BTW: I decided to wait until the second side was on to do the 6/10 braces. It'll be easier to ensure things line up and are even that way. Reaching into the back of the mouth to paint won't be too bad. It's not like I'm trying that on T60s. Added Bonus: I won't have to tape off any areas either. Cha-ching!

[ncgrove]

I'd use Bondo or PL and sand it down smooth

[sine143]

pl is a bit hard to get "totally flat". either bondo, epoxy/sawdust, or possibly elmers/sawdust

[miked]

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing about PL. I have epoxy, but I'd be afraid of it dripping into the t-nuts. It's all over if that happens. Guess it's either wood putty or the spackle. I will probably go with the wood putty. It will have at least a week to dry before I sand it as I'm not anywhere near ready to mount drivers yet.

I hope to have the 2nd sides on tomorrow. Then, 48 hours for PL to dry and I can start removing the 60+ screws from each cab and begin the finishing process.