BillFitzmaurice.info

Quick shot of Duratex finish...almost done! Still gotta throw some v plates together, then Im done!

You may want to consider making your v-plates a full 1" thick. If you have a flush trim bit for your router, it's really easy to laminate two pieces together and trim the larger one to size. Check my T48 build thread towards the end for pics of my vplate build process. Very happy with mine.

We need lots of pics of your completed cabs. Hint-hint.

Sweet looking subs, Clint.

I can't wait to read your review of .... 8 T48s !!!!

Oh wait, is that thunder I hear?

Chris

I'd say dont worry about going more than 3/4 thick (with 3/4 birch), and if necessary, add an X shape stiffening brace to the top. you should easily be able to get that out of 1 sheet for 2.

sine143 wrote:I'd say dont worry about going more than 3/4 thick (with 3/4 birch), and if necessary, add an X shape stiffening brace to the top. you should easily be able to get that out of 1 sheet for 2.

Yeah, Ill probably just hit up some 3/4 inch. They have some nice 3/4 7ply birch at Menards here locally in the 4x8 sheets...man they dont give it away though!

Once I get these v-plates done and mounted and the boxes get Duratex'd Im gonna throw together a video. Im thinking of demonstrating the differences between v-plate and non v-plate, use of pairs, corner/wall placments and so forth. Ill demnostrate using sin waves ranging from roughly 40-100 hz with volt meters showing power/ohms and a sound meter for decibles; give a real life type of demonstration. If anyone has any thoughts I am open to suggestions.

I think your proposed demo video, as you've described it, is a wonderful idea and would really benefit the community as a whole. If you make it, I'll be the first one to watch it! After you do, obviously.

So Im struggling to get these front covers air tight. I switched from Phillips head to hex head (cost me 70 bucks), thinking that I could get them tighter as i was stripping the Phillips when i really torqued down on them. Anyway, whent from the closed cell 3/8 weather stripping to the like 2" and its not any better. Thinking about trying the caulking rope stuff. I cant really torque down much more or Im gonna deform the wood so I need a better sealant i guess

aluminum tape is your friend.

sine143 wrote:aluminum tape is your friend.

just aluminum tape? How could that seal better than 2" closed cell? Here is a link to something very similar to what I am using. http://www.menards.com/main/doors-windo ... c-3624.htm

it wont. you seal the driver chamber in the fashion you have now, and then throw some aluminum tape over the seam.

sine143 wrote:it wont. you seal the driver chamber in the fashion you have now, and then throw some aluminum tape over the seam.

Think im gonna try putting a nice smooth bead over the seams with this. Should blend nicely, seems like the tape would stick out quite a bit sitting over the seams.

the tape is certainly not pretty.

Are the flanges flat, and square to each other? Is the cover flat?

That foam tape should be plenty to seal.

Tom Smit wrote:Are the flanges flat, and square to each other? Is the cover flat?

That foam tape should be plenty to seal.

thats the thing...yeah, they are all square and reasonably flat..no remarkable gaps or anything. honestly i am really surprised i am having such a difficult time sealing them.

Tom Smit wrote:Are the flanges flat, and square to each other? Is the cover flat?

That foam tape should be plenty to seal.

+1.