Levi wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2024 9:27 pm
Great point about a sealed option for the DR280s! And at least 3 on each side, sounds good! Do you think there would be any downsides to just strapping them down on top of the subs? I know you said the bottom one should be just above head level, but if we shade them properly, do you think it would be just as acceptable to stack them on top of 2 x T60s? So about 5’ off the ground for the bottom DR280? Like we did here, but with the 2 corner pieces on top, so they are 3 high:
That has a good visual appeal, but it's not ideal for sound. It would be way better to so a three stack instead of the 2 and 1 shown in the photo and get the bottom cab above head level. Stack up on some scafolding. 8 foot if you can, 6 foot scaffolding and a 1-2 foot box/spacer under the stack would be okay too. If you have to strap them to the subs, I'd do the DR's 3 high per side, utilize the ground stack bracket, "J" array, and put something under the stack to elevate it another couple of feet if it can be done in a way that is still safe, sturdy, and highly improbable/impossible to knock over.
It's difficult to tell for sure in the photo, but it appears the DR280's may have been made without the 8 degree splay angle? Ye, ne?
Also, that is a very interesting point about the T48s having increased sensitivity above 40Hz. Maybe it is worth giving up that low low end for a bit more low end…
Which brings me to my next question…
@Bill
But if we are talking about doing 4+ x T60s, then does that benefit/tradeoff disappear? So the T60 is the best way to go if we are talking 16+? Because we get all the sensitivity of the Titans in that 40-60Hz range, in addition to the lower extension of the Tubas? And this holds true no matter how many Titans we have, even if they significantly outnumber a set amount of Tubas? Is that what you meant?
Or, to put it another way, if we have something bonkers like 32 x T48s, is that not any better than 16 x T60s? I guess that assumes the same amount of power going through them, and all other things held constant… But what if we have twice the power as well? Or does that matter at all?
If I understood Bill correctly, and Bill please correct me if I'm off base, the first 8 max width cabs of either design will scale at 6dB per doubling cab count (3dB for increased efficiency, 3dB for doubling power) and additional cabs beyond that are just 3dB per doubling of cab count for doubling system power, but no additional increase in efficiency.
I have to assume this is a product of the throat and/or mouth area and not an actual cab count, so 8 minimum width cabs would probably not meet maximum efficiency. Just a guess though.
Calculated out this way, using 8 cabs as the point at which 40Hz is at it's maximum efficiency gain:
2 cabs +6dB
4 Cabs +12dB
8 cabs +18dB
12 cabs +19.8dB
16 cabs +21.1dB
20 cabs +22dB
24 cabs +22.8dB
28 cabs +23.5dB
32 cabs +24dB
36 cabs +24.6dB
In this thread you say you have 8 T60's, but the photo shows 12. In any case, it looks like you will need 80 cabs to double the perceived output (10dB) if you used 8 before. Yikes!! You can add the figures above to your calculated max SPL of a single cab to get the entire array's potential output
at 1 meter (3.28 feet). To calculate SPL at distance, subtract 6dB for every doubling of distance. Two meters away, minus 6dB. Four meters away, minus another 6dB...
As I mentioned in the original post, we are going up against the gold standard, which happens to be a D&B system…
If you do this right, you'll be the new Gold Standard.
What does this mean, exactly? What is max SPL? Is it just like it sounds? The absolute highest decibel level at whichever frequency(ies) a speaker can reproduce, before it done get all blowed up? So in this case, would it mean that the B-2 gets 139db at 50Hz-ish when they are running at max power indoors? Which the manual says is 600W RMS / 2400W peak 10ms. Nominal impedance 4 ohms.
I've found in nearly all cases, advertised max SPL is simply calculated by adding sensitivity dB to Rated Power converted to dB. In nearly every advertisement/info/spec sheet I've ever seen, they usually use the unreasonably lofty "peak" power rating to inflate the number making it look better than it actually is in reality. Furthermore, some of the shadier manufacturers use the highest sensitivity that occurs in the sweep. More reputable manufacturers use the average sensitivity. Personally, when I do my calculations, I like to use the least sensitive reading in the usable frequency range and the more realistic RMS power rating. This results in a figure that is achievable for realistic long term output.
Sensitivity is typically done as a half space measurement, which is essentially the same as sitting on the ground outdoors.
In the spec you posted, 2400 watts is +33.8dB. Subtract that from 139dB max SPL should give us the sensitivity they "think" they have, 105.2dB on 1 watt measured at 1 meter. Ultra unlikely that's a real number. And if it is, I guarantee it's above 100Hz, not even in the usable frequency range.
A little more about why calculating it this way is complete bullshit is, there's a certain amount of cone travel in a driver where cone movement is very closely relative and linear to the signal voltage, where the coil is within the flux of the magnet. All of Bills limits are based on keeping the driver within it's designed operational limits. When a driver is pushed beyond and the excursion is such that the coil becomes less and less in the magnetic flux, the cone movement becomes less and less linear. Just making up numbers to illustrate the point, if a driver is moving 10mm one direction with 50 volts, and 10mm is it's limit for linear travel, 100 volts will not move the cone another 10mm because the coil is too far out of the magnetic flux to have a linear effect. Soooooo, calculating maximum SPL with a driver's thermal power failure limit as if the cane travel is linear all the way to that number is complete marketing bullshit and has zero usefulness in gig planning and deployment. It's a number for unknowing people with credit cards. That's it.
So that we can compare apples to apples, do we know what a “max SPL” of a T60-LAB15 is? Or does that even matter? I don’t know…
Since their apples are rotten, we can't really compare unless you want to use rotten numbers too. I'd rather not, but why not? Let's see what a load of bullshit useless figures equates to. Using 107dB sensitivity (highest I see on the plot) and 1200 watts (LAB15 peak power rating) equals 137.8dB of bullshit 27" wide 1x 15" loaded T60 max SPL.
Now, if you want to calculate usable maximum SPL, I recommend you use RMS power and the lowest SPL in the intended usable frequency range. That will give you data you can use in planning the needs and requirements at different venues.
There are a couple easy ways to convert power to dB. On a scientific calculator (smartphone or PC has this), simply enter the power number and press LOG, then multiply by 10. Or in a spreadsheet, =LOG(watts)*10.
Since the voltage limit for the LAB15 T60 is 60volts and the drivers nominal impedance is 6Ω, Volts x Volts ÷ Ohms = Watts... 600 Watts. 600 LOG x 10 = 27.8dB
I like to use 40Hz figures, 98dB + 27.8 (600W in dB) = 125.8dB minimum maximum usable long term SPL. That's a real number you can realistically expect to actually measure in the real world.
The reason I use the least sensitive figure for calculations is, the lest sensitive is usually the bottom of the frequency range. Once it's all EQ'd, it's likely that 40Hz is 12-15dB hotter than 125Hz, which means there will be a boost/cut spread of nearly 25dB in this case. Who cares what the sensitivity is at 100Hz when it's going to be attenuated 25dB and it's resultant peak output at that frequency is dictated by the sensitivity of the lowest, least sensitive frequency. Anyway, a little rambly there. Hopefully the point comes across.
If they have 12 of the B-2s, with max SPL of 139/136 db at let’s say 50 Hz for one cab…
Then for 12 cabs, they might get an additional 3.5 x 6 db = 21 db…?
So 139 + 21 = 160/157 db in that range? Whoa…
Yes, using traditional math and not accounting for an efficiency limit, 12 cabs is +21.58dB. But, as I mentioned above, their "max SPL" is a bogus figure and the multiple cab calculation has changed. I don't even want to venture a guess as to what the might be able to produce in the real world, but it's 100% not as advertised.
All I know is that when you stand in their sweet spot vs ours, it’s a big difference. Does that just mean they are 10, 20, 30+ decibels higher in the 50-60Hz (or lower) range? Silly question, because probably no one has been out on their dance floor, but when you compare different systems that you have experienced in your own life, do you think that is the main difference between higher and lower quality systems? Just having the right decibels levels at the right frequencies? Or is there something(s) more to it?
The system tune is monumental and can make or break the listening experience. What was it that made a difference for you. What do you feel your setup was lacking in comparison? Was it volume? Was it something else? Could be both, but a good tune will sound better than a not-so-good tune at any volume.
Can you tell me a little about how your system was tuned? Do you have any screen shots of the system's final response curve or even a target response curve? Response plots/graphs would be the best way for us to help you in regards to the tune. What did you use to tune? Open Sound Meter/SMAART? Just the auto tune in the Driverack? Just be ear?
An expertly tuned system sounds amazing.