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Looks great! Good job. I made mine with a BP102 and a circular grill protecting it. Later I added Eminence APT80 tweeter and a pole mount for maximum versatility. Sounds great.

jimbo7 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 14, 2024 3:25 pm Looks great! Good job. I made mine with a BP102 and a circular grill protecting it. Later I added Eminence APT80 tweeter and a pole mount for maximum versatility. Sounds great.

Many thanks. Sounds even better than it looks.

S12 Build
Day 6
1. Materials
Cabinet & components.
Grille
Matte black spray paint
Tuff-Cab “Funky Purple” Cabinet paint
Four-inch paint rollers
Masking tape

2. Tools
Lathe, roughing gouge, skew chisel
Dividers, pipe cutter, drill-driver & bits
Saws

3. Objectives
• Fit grille
• Make 14 half inch long 15mm diameter spacers
• Paint cabinet

4. Method
• Removed driver, handle, feet & jack-plate from cabinet. Stored driver in original box for safety.

• Making 14 half-inch spacers:
◦ Turned a 12 inch piece of scrap hardwood (mahogany? from an old coat-stand) into a cylinder to (friction) fit inside a 12 inch piece of copper pipe on the lathe
◦ Pushed dowel into copper pipe & cut pipe & wood into half-inch long segments.
◦ Sanded ends flush on 6o grit abrasive paper.

• Fitting grille
◦ Filed edges of metal grill smooth
◦ Fitted spacers to baffle through holes in grille using 1½ inch No. 8 wood-screws & cup-washers.
◦ Removed grille – superglued spacers in position and attached to baffle with screws & cup-washers until glue cured

• Painting cabinet
◦ Removed screws & cup-washers
◦ Masked edges of cabinet surrounding baffle & jack-plate.
◦ Sprayed baffle, spacers & jack-plate recess matte black
◦ Allowed to dry
◦ Inserted 4 off 1½ inch No 12 wood-screws into cabinet feet holes to support cabinet
◦ Paint exterior surfaces (base/bottom of cab first) & edges
◦ Stand cabinet upright on supporting screws while paint dries

5. Results
• Cabinet painted – first coat

6. Lessons learned
• Paint inside ports before wadding & cabinet back are fitted

7. Next
• Re-fit driver, handle, jack plate, feet.
• Paint cabinet with second coat of TuffCab paint
◦ Allow to dry
• Print & fit BF logo on baffle (so it is protected)
• Mount / fit baffle

Photos:

Making spacers Finished spacers
"Funky Purple" cabinet (hope it improves playing funk) Cabinet painted (first coat) & drying

Interesting choice of procedure for the spacers. The ambidextrous use of measuring units, "half inch long 15mm diameter spacers", is also noted and appreciated.

I absolutely LOVE the color choice!

Seth wrote: ↑Sun Mar 17, 2024 2:25 pm Interesting choice of procedure for the spacers. The ambidextrous use of measuring units, "half inch long 15mm diameter spacers", is also noted and appreciated.

I absolutely LOVE the color choice!

Couldn’t find any suitable spacers to buy.
Plan dimensions are in inches, and the only suitable copper pipe I had is metric.
Glad you appreciate mixing of units: not something I usually do

Thought black was boring; sulphur yellow was considered, but was too gaudy, and would show scuffs too easily. Purple certainly stands from the crowd, but is dark enough to mask the inevitable road-rash. Will order a cover from Hot Covers (U.K.). May yet add protective corners.
Glad you like it. Will post some better photos when finished.
Thanks for the feedback.

"Funky Purple" cabinet (hope it improves playing funk)

LOL!!!

'Prince'.

Painted.
Logo fitted.
Grille fitted.
Not entirely sure about bright ‘n’ brassy screws/washers.

Sounds fantastic! Thanks Bill.


Needs breaking in next.

Am building a second Simplexx 1x12 with no tweeter, and intend to stack them one above the other.
The plans state that cabs with tweeters should have the baffle for one cab of a pair flipped on the horizontal axis, so that the tweeters are closer together than they otherwise would be.

Is it necessary to flip the baffle for one cab of a pair without tweeters?

Thanks I’m advance.

It does apply. It's critical with tweeters, not so much with woofers. But the flip will put the woofers closer together, which will improve the results when stacked.

Many thanks for such a prompt reply.

I will flip the baffle - easy before it’s glued in; impossible afterwards.

Dry fit before glue-up with flipped baffle.

Have replaced the gaudy garish brass screws & cup-washers with black flange-head screws.

Ran 20Hz through the speaker - easy to make the cone hit the grille, which clears the driver front gasket by about a millimetre

Bill’s plans say read the plans at least twice: I did, but still installed ½ inch grille stand-offs.

The plans say use ¾ inch.

Easy to fix: will add spacers to existing stand-offs

Half built second cab.
Used a different glue up process.
Glued top to one side, base to the other side & allowed to cure whilst making baffle.
Put 1” spacers on a flat board.
Put baffle face down on spacers.
Glued edges of baffle & remaining two top/base/side joints.
Assembled cab. around the baffle.
Secured with strap clamp and quick grip clamps. Put 3 or 4 25mm brad nails in each joint. Punched down nails near corners to be routed.
Pictures below:

To cut bevels on port pieces, I made & tested a sled for use with router flush trim bit.
Basically 2 x 45° pieces of ply fastened to a second piece.
Fixed workpiece to angled part of “sled”with double-sided tape.
Cut bevel using ½ “ flush-trim bit.

Picture below:
Used push pads to grip “sled” with test piece of 12mm scrap ply. Note the fancy router table. Too busy to make a proper one (yet)

About the baffle blocks...they're there to give screws more wood thickness to grab hold of. There's no point in them with T nuts. I stopped using T nuts 20 odd years ago, when their quality became so horrible you'd strip half of them, coinciding with when they all started coming from Asia.