bass standalone cabs
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
Re: bass standalone cabs
Out of curiosity I looked at that thread. It reminded my why I stopped going to talkbass twelve years ago: Too much disinformation. For instance, "if you're wanting to save money, DIY isn't necessarily a good path. Buy a used cab" That may be true if the DIY consists of sticking a random driver into a random box. But the level of engineering of commercial cabs pales in comparison to that of better DIY designs. For instance, you can't get a used cab that's the equal of a JackLite, because there's no new cab the equal of a JackLite. Even the Simplexx cabs are better than commercial offerings. That's because commercial cabs cut corners to address marketing and profit margin concerns. DIY cabs don't have marketing and profit margins to deal with, so they can use cutting edge designs and constructions that commercial cabs cannot.
Re: bass standalone cabs
Hi François, my name is Seth. Welcome to the party 
You seem to be aware, but I'll put it out there anyway... higher frequencies that are produced from larger diameter drivers are concentrated closer and closer to the center axis of the driver the larger and larger the diameter is. Higher frequencies from a15" bass cab without a tweeter are like a laser beam and you're not going to hear the upper end unless the cab is aimed directly at you.
One solution is to elevate the cab until you can hear enough high end. In my opinion, the better solution is using a tilt back stand, like Bill mentioned. Have you used a tilt back stand before? If not, you may want to try one out prior to deciding which cab to build. I'm curious to know which route you choose and how well it works out for you. Please, keep us posted!
You seem to be aware, but I'll put it out there anyway... higher frequencies that are produced from larger diameter drivers are concentrated closer and closer to the center axis of the driver the larger and larger the diameter is. Higher frequencies from a15" bass cab without a tweeter are like a laser beam and you're not going to hear the upper end unless the cab is aimed directly at you.
One solution is to elevate the cab until you can hear enough high end. In my opinion, the better solution is using a tilt back stand, like Bill mentioned. Have you used a tilt back stand before? If not, you may want to try one out prior to deciding which cab to build. I'm curious to know which route you choose and how well it works out for you. Please, keep us posted!
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: bass standalone cabs
This is the last solution I would expect you, a guitarist AND soundman, to recommend. But, I like it!Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat Dec 02, 2023 11:58 am ...I'm tempted to suggest a T48 with and OTop12 on top...

That rig would certainly teach a lesson to the pesky guitarist who won't turn down!

Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: bass standalone cabs
...or three JACK10s stacked....frances-rhodes wrote: ↑Sun Dec 03, 2023 5:59 am <snip>
So two OMNI12s (or two JACK12s) is my idea for a tall and modular setup.
Just throwing another option out there.

TomS