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I have used the PL x8 max stuff for builds. It is very different, it is much thicker, more paste like, almost a putty. The normal PL is a tan color and slimy, the x8 is grey in color and reminds me of liquid nail construction adhesive. If I am working in 100+ degree weather in Arizona over summer, the max is better because of it being thicker. The normal PL in the heat will squeeze out the tube on its own just sitting there and takes forever to stop oozing after you initiate it. I do not recommend the max Pl adhesive in winter, even in the warmer winter of southern AZ around 30-50 degrees F that max grade stuff is almost impossible to extract out of the tube. Makes butting joints together harder as the slow squeeze out rate within the joint makes assembly harder and depending on your precision the thickness will start to throw off your measurements. I find it easier to fill large voids it works much more like a wood filler it is so thick. For me the normal PL is much easier to work in a colder environment. Both do expand both have held up perfectly well for me, the x8 max grade takes stain better but only just.

I personally opt for the x3 basic as it is cheaper.

ACUA wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 8:32 am will squeeze out the tube on its own just sitting there and takes forever to stop oozing after you initiate it.

I always turn the plunger and pull it back as soon as I finish a bead. That relieves the pressure and while it might still ooze a little, it's not nearly as bad as leaving the plunger engaged.

I think the "x8" and the "max" are different. The tube on the right is what I picked up. Is this what you have used?

Glad you specified, I have never seen the Max one, I have used the x8 stronger one. All I said holds up for the x8 stronger.

I also relieve the pressure to the caulk gun but if it is 110f outside it does not matter that stuff spews regardless.

I got started last night and made some progress tonight. Panel one is done! The PL Premium Max is interesting. It seems much thicker than the standard PL Premium. It dresses like silicone and is slick like silicone. Almost no ooze from the tube (it comes in a plastic tube like caulk or silicone). The picture of the tube is after sitting for about 5 minutes. I'm seeing about as much ooze as latex caulk.

Interesting, let us know how it turns out. I do not see the x8 listed on HomeDepot’s website, wonder if the Max is replacing it.

More progress last night. Panel three was tricky. I clamped a carpenters square in the woofer area behind panel six. Then I temporarily screwed a square scrap piece in the place of panel four. That squared everything up to install panel three. I fastened it with a screw through the side and one inch brads into panel one and panel two. I'm not a huge fan of the jigs... I dry fit everything with screws first before I glue. You can see in the pics that panel three was about 1/8 inch off from the line on panel two. It would have probably really thrown me out of square if I had followed the lines. I'm glad Bill makes a note of this in the plans... I probably would have just followed the lines and been out of square. I like the PL Premium Max. I don't think it expands quite as much as the original PL but I'm seeing expansion.

It's looking very good.

Thanks! It's been years since I built my TT's. This seems like an easier design but I could just have a bad memory.

I discovered tonight that I won't have enough 1/2" BB to build the mounting plate for the extended surround driver. I'm thinking about building it out of 3/4 inch plywood and skipping the retention blocks. Is this a bad idea?

It's OK. The reason for the blocks is that 1/2" plywood isn't enough to hold the screws.

Some progress this weekend...

I have the majority of it together. I still have all the work to do on the chamber braces, cover, etc. I had to space my 2/6 braces pretty far apart. The rubber surround on that dayton ultimax is no joke! Even with them spaced apart I still had to notch them pretty deep and taper them with my sander. I decided to use t-nuts to attach the driver plate to panel 6. I like the idea of being able to torque bolts down and not worry about screws stripping the wood out. I also made the driver plate larger than what the plans called for because my panel 6 hole ended up fairly large after adding 1/4" to the speaker cage size. I'll have some tricky work with the chamber braces but I think it'll be okay. I ran it very briefly last night. Very impressive! (even without the chamber sealed) Here's some pics... sorry, they don't really end up in any order.

more photos...

I like it. Looks awesome. How is that adhesive treating you?

Thanks! I really like the PL Premium Max. It is very much a cross between construction adhesive and silicone sealant. It expands but not as much as the normal PL. I just put two beads (rows) on each joint and I get plenty of squeeze out. I've used almost two tubes at this point.

Anyone every try making the chamber cover out of a spliced piece? I have a 12" x 60" scrap that I could splice to make my 18" x 25" chamber cover. Would the pressure be too much for a splice? Also, is there any benefit to adding poly-fil to the chamber?