BillFitzmaurice.info

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum ... l-adhesive

i found a similar case to what i am experiencing only thing i can figure is its not fully setting up and time should help.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-P ... lsrc=aw.ds

this is what i am using

ACUA wrote:http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum ... l-adhesive

Read post #2 in that thread? If it didn't work better than any other adhesive I wouldn't have been recommending it for the last sixteen years. You either got a bad batch (unlikely), a stale batch or the temperature was too cold and/or humidity too low. I've seen that result, but only when I used it at too low a temperature and humidity.

i read the entire thread, i came into the shop this morning and inspected my work piece, the PL is setting a bit slow but it gets around 50degrees at night and not over 80degrees in the day. I dont think its a bad batch either, i think it is just setting a little slower than my patiences. After inspecting the glue joints of my work piece i am pretty happy with the hardness of the PL at this point, each day it continues to set better i just need to not disturb the joints any until i get a full cure. I admit I like the instructions that come as part of the plans for the build, clearly someone has done a lot of homework and it shows in the build plans!!!!!

i have no other back ground to relate this to other than bass reflex enclosures (basically the only speaker design I have enough understanding to be successful with on my own). With those enclosures the lower the frequency the higher the vent velocity, its interesting to me that with these horns or horns in general the need for round over is not useful until high up in the hz spektrum. I need to get away from comparing the two enclosure designs as i am finding that very little is interchangeable. Thanks Bill and everyone else, the support system and moral here is great.

set up saw to cut over 45degree by nailing some strips to the work piece, used some ballast to help hold the piece in place, got some PL on my hands, but it fits nice, this is one of the funnest builds i have ever done, sorry it is taking so long i only get an hour or so a day but it is nice cause i can let the adhesion compound set up some before i touch it too much...

ACUA wrote:set up saw to cut over 45degree by nailing some strips to the work piece, used some ballast to help hold the piece in place, got some PL on my hands, but it fits nice, this is one of the funnest builds i have ever done, sorry it is taking so long i only get an hour or so a day but it is nice cause i can let the adhesion compound set up some before i touch it too much...

You really should have the fence on the other side of the blade when doing a bevel cut like that. What you are doing there is very dangerous and is way more prone to kickback. Too easy for the blade to pinch the board.

Always have the fence away from the tilt of the blade.

Bruce Weldy wrote:

ACUA wrote:set up saw to cut over 45degree by nailing some strips to the work piece, used some ballast to help hold the piece in place, got some PL on my hands, but it fits nice, this is one of the funnest builds i have ever done, sorry it is taking so long i only get an hour or so a day but it is nice cause i can let the adhesion compound set up some before i touch it too much...

You really should have the fence on the other side of the blade when doing a bevel cut like that. What you are doing there is very dangerous and is way more prone to kickback. Too easy for the blade to pinch the board.

Always have the fence away from the tilt of the blade.

+1,000,000
You'll learn that one eventually from experience. Broken ribs or a bruised stomach WILL happen eventually. Once the cutoff piece reaches past the saw and bends down a bit, then in a split second the piece will fly back at you around 200 mph. Not fun at all. I've had a piece of ply fly back 25 feet into the wall behind me and shatter into splitters. Never stand behind the line of fire on a bevel cut either.

Bruce Weldy wrote:you should be using fasteners to hold the panels in place while the glue cures.

+1, what fasteners are you using, brads or screws? In the case of either, once a panel is fastened into place, there is no need to wait for the cure. You can keep on building.

I have never had any problems running my little table saw so I'm either over do, or lucky, or somewhat safe. I simply stood beside the saw where the rail was mounted so that if I got any kick back I would not be the target. I am using brad nails to help hold the work pieces and jigs together. For some reason my PL is not setting up very fast so leaving the parts clamped longer helps my situation

Final driver chamber wall in place

Do the current plans or PL Premium instructions suggest wetting the work pieces, to provide the moisture needed to cure it? Not so much a soaking as a dampening

A wipe with a damp rag or a mist from a spray bottle helps it cure more quickly. Depending on the temp, it can be 3 or 4 hrs even with that before a joint is solid enough to handle without fear.

I'm really excited for your build, as I am considering building T45s to replace my four T24s.
What is the intended use going to be? DJ work?
What amp are you going to go with?
What processor?

I 2nd the pl thing... mine cured rock hard over night. Not sure why yours is taking so long.

DJing, i currently have some peavey 215s for my mains a crown xls1500 and xls2500 amp, i have a new dbx driverack pa2 that i am really happy with I have no intention of educating my local competition about it if you know what i mean. the size of that unit for its ability is awesome. my plan is to build one subwoofer cab for now and add a second cab later as finances will permit. I plan to eventually run two tuba45s off of the xls2500. well that is the plan anyway.

once my PL sets up and is hard. if i scrap it up with a knife it peals off to reveal the surface between the glue and the work piece and it looks like the glue is highly porous where it is in direct contact with the material i am trying to glue. the little blobs of glue that leak out of the caulking gun even after several days of curing can easily be broken in half the glue never seems to harden to the point of becoming brittle. i will not be in my shop over the weekend so the project will have several days to cure up we will see how it goes come monday. i will try damping the glue joints a little before applying PL and see if it helps.

ACUA wrote:

once my PL sets up and is hard. if i scrap it up with a knife it peals off to reveal the surface between the glue and the work piece and it looks like the glue is highly porous where it is in direct contact with the material i am trying to glue. the little blobs of glue that leak out of the caulking gun even after several days of curing can easily be broken in half the glue never seems to harden to the point of becoming brittle. i will not be in my shop over the weekend so the project will have several days to cure up we will see how it goes come monday. i will try damping the glue joints a little before applying PL and see if it helps.

Where are you located? Must be very dry there.

Yes the driverack pa2 is awesome! I have one as well.

Bruce Weldy wrote:

ACUA wrote:

once my PL sets up and is hard. if i scrap it up with a knife it peals off to reveal the surface between the glue and the work piece and it looks like the glue is highly porous where it is in direct contact with the material i am trying to glue. the little blobs of glue that leak out of the caulking gun even after several days of curing can easily be broken in half the glue never seems to harden to the point of becoming brittle. i will not be in my shop over the weekend so the project will have several days to cure up we will see how it goes come monday. i will try damping the glue joints a little before applying PL and see if it helps.

Where are you located? Must be very dry there.

ya its dry, Arizona!!! 0% humidity and lately it is around 50degrees at night and 90degree high during day. thanks for the support and information all.