BillFitzmaurice.info

Looking good!

If I remember correctly, the round (NL4MPR) Speakon panel mounts are the only sealed airtight ones...make sure you seal yours well, as they're in the horn path....

NukePooch wrote:Looking good!

If I remember correctly, the round (NL4MPR) Speakon panel mounts are the only sealed airtight ones...make sure you seal yours well, as they're in the horn path....

Thanks Nukepooch!! I will now remember to make sure of the airtighness of the speakon connectors once they get here. I had to order them from another source because speakerhardware was temporarily offline right when I wanted to order.

One last time before I seal this puppy up:



One last thing, the braces are just placed atm, I will trim the horizontal one into plane with the rest of the cab (it is long), and install the side without the brace assembly for easier interior painting.(no no no) Or I could interior paint before installing the side, leaving only the one interior side left to paint....yea that's it. Think I want the interior black and the braces red...or orange...

Nice

Looking good. Before you put the final side on, I noticed that there is no 1/4 round stock inside of the hand holds. They really add to the comfort of the handles. Also, have you thought about casters for the box?

CoronaOperator wrote:Looking good. Before you put the final side on, I noticed that there is no 1/4 round stock inside of the hand holds. They really add to the comfort of the handles. Also, have you thought about casters for the box?

+2 I agree with both. The 1/4 round is well worth the effort and recessed caster are worth their weight in gold.

kkip wrote:

CoronaOperator wrote:Looking good. Before you put the final side on, I noticed that there is no 1/4 round stock inside of the hand holds. They really add to the comfort of the handles. Also, have you thought about casters for the box?

+2 I agree with both. The 1/4 round is well worth the effort and recessed caster are worth their weight in gold.

These will always be moved with a hand truck, so I'm skipping the recessed wheels.
As to the quarter round, I have had a hard time finding 1/2" quarter round, can only find 3/4", of course I could have moved the handle holes 1/4" farther in from the edge to accommodate for 3/4" round but ehhh. It would begin to interfere with the inside 45 deg corner braces, besides I'm old and grizzled and not used to comfort

Yup, paint before the second side goes on. You could even figure out roughly where things go on the second side, paint/coat the second side while leaving a bit of room for those parts. Then all that would be left is to touch up a couple of spots.

Tom Smit wrote:Yup, paint before the second side goes on. You could even figure out roughly where things go on the second side, paint/coat the second side while leaving a bit of room for those parts. Then all that would be left is to touch up a couple of spots.

+1

Masking tape works great.

Driver has been broken in and mounted now its working and sounds freakin' awesome. I'm currently just driving this Titan 39 with a 500 watt ( 30 volts max) amp for leak testing..and passed w/ flying colors, but I had no doubt.



Obviously all that's left is finishing and corners/feet

heavybdrums wrote:Driver has been broken in and mounted now its working and sounds freakin' awesome. I'm currently just driving this Titan 39 with a 500 watt ( 30 volts max) amp for leak testing..and passed w/ flying colors, but I had no doubt.

Looking good!

Ummm is that 500W max into 8 ohms?

If so, please recalculate. I get 63V with:
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electri ... ulator.htm

Using the same thing, even if that's a 4 ohm output, it's still 42V.
Neither of those figures account for amplifier transients.

Make sure you are feeding the amp via a driverack etc, just to be sure.
I hate to see you blow a driver at this or any stage...

Grant Bunter wrote:

heavybdrums wrote:Driver has been broken in and mounted now its working and sounds freakin' awesome. I'm currently just driving this Titan 39 with a 500 watt ( 30 volts max) amp for leak testing..and passed w/ flying colors, but I had no doubt.

Looking good!

Ummm is that 500W max into 8 ohms?

If so, please recalculate. I get 63V with:
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electri ... ulator.htm

Using the same thing, even if that's a 4 ohm output, it's still 42V.
Neither of those figures account for amplifier transients.

Make sure you are feeding the amp via a driverack etc, just to be sure.
I hate to see you blow a driver at this or any stage...

I did not calculate using that, but direct measured by sending 40 hz sine wave and read off of the speaker terminals and at max read 30 volts. Doing this for the purpose of leak testing. should I do that or use the calculation? FYI the meter I used lowest range is 150 volts old and was cheap when I got it, is this ok? The rating on the amp is 500 watts into 8 ohms, and I see your 63 volts, how come I can't get it to read that ?


EDIT:
I didn't have the amp all the way up when I read that 30 volts...ha ha
Will retest for the limit value.

NukePooch wrote:Looking good!

If I remember correctly, the round (NL4MPR) Speakon panel mounts are the only sealed airtight ones...make sure you seal yours well, as they're in the horn path....

I tested the nl4mp speakon connectors I got in the mail by putting the round end in my mouth and blowing. I found them to be airtight. It may be that we are talking about the same model connector, but the part # on mine doesn't have the "r" for some reason. Thanks for the heads up.

heavybdrums wrote:

Grant Bunter wrote:

heavybdrums wrote:Driver has been broken in and mounted now its working and sounds freakin' awesome. I'm currently just driving this Titan 39 with a 500 watt ( 30 volts max) amp for leak testing..and passed w/ flying colors, but I had no doubt.

Looking good!

Ummm is that 500W max into 8 ohms?

If so, please recalculate. I get 63V with:
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electri ... ulator.htm

Using the same thing, even if that's a 4 ohm output, it's still 42V.
Neither of those figures account for amplifier transients.

Make sure you are feeding the amp via a driverack etc, just to be sure.
I hate to see you blow a driver at this or any stage...

I did not calculate using that, but direct measured by sending 40 hz sine wave and read off of the speaker terminals and at max read 30 volts. should I do that or use the calculation? FYI the meter I used lowest range is 150 volts old and was cheap when I got it, is this ok? The rating on the amp is 500 watts into 8 ohms, and I see your 63 volts, how come I can't get it to read that ?

Are you sure that you were driving the amp to it's maximum output with no load when you made the measurement? I usually raise the level until the clip lights come on, then back it down a bit. This will tell you the max voltage the amp can deliver. If it is truly a 500 W amp, it will be able to drive more than 63V. On the other hand a cheap amp with fake specs may really only be able to deliver 40V. I have a Gem Sound "1000 Watt" amp that I bought a garage sale. Actually not a bad sounding amp, but It can only muster about 40V.

I don't wanna shout lol

Never ever connect these cabs to an amp until you know the maximum voltage output of the amp that's running them.

40Hz sine wave is a bit low IMO. Try 60Hz.
Trim your gain on a channel strip (fader at unity) until you're clipping and then back it off until the clip light just stops. Run your masters up to 0dB on your output meters.

Read your amp output in AC volts. It should be close to the calculation.

This is great practice for setting your limiters in the driverack etc.

You're going to gain some headroom when you use the system in real life, because music isn't the same as sine waves...

I see a mistake,i dont know how crucial it is but your vertical braces shouldn't be to the edge on a wide cab,the horizontal braces should have been installed centered then the vertical braces butted to the horizontal braces.