BillFitzmaurice.info

BrentEvans wrote: It's a full range cab measurement.

A measurement of just the sixes would be more useful. It's also impossible to compare xmax. They're both mathematically zero, as they both have under-hung coils, but Eminence has a Klippel (10% THD) measured 3.5mm, whereas the Dayton is unknown.

I agree that a woofer only measurement would be more useful, this chart was a product of data mining another measurement session which really wasn't geared toward proving the PA165. We have enough of them in service to know they work just as well as the Alphas.

I'll be building another 8 cabs with them soon, I have some alphas on the shelf I can drop in a cab and take a measurement of that. I wouldn't be surprised that the results don't change (in that they aren't any different).

As for the xmax... they're a midrange. If I had the tools to measure Xmax, I would. All I can tell you is that they just work. We do arena sized gigs with this rig. We have them in installs all over. When they break up, we back off. They don't break up. They don't blow up. We run them on RMX4050s (2 series pairs of 3 per cab) and now IPR7500s, which *CAN* reach 120v on the output legs. The 4050 clip lights light occasionally. I haven't driven the IPRs to DDT limit with them yet, but they can play loud and hard. When they're pushed hard, you can hear the power compression but they're still clean. This is WAY past Dayton's RMS rating.

If someone has the capability to measure them, I might just be willing to send you one. It's not like they're expensive.

Can anyone who has bought the speaker grills from Reliable Hardware tell me the exact dimensions
they used for the custom grill and how much of a bend on all 4 sides?

BrentEvans wrote: If someone has the capability to measure them, I might just be willing to send you one. It's not like they're expensive.

I doubt any members have a Klippel handy.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

BrentEvans wrote: If someone has the capability to measure them, I might just be willing to send you one. It's not like they're expensive.

I doubt any members have a Klippel handy.

Yeah, Kind of figured that.

Hey Ken!

I know it appears that your questions aren't being addressed. Sometimes discussions get sidetracked.

About your questions regarding driver type, specific dimensions and the like.... All of these are in the plans. We don't generally discuss design specifics here in an open forum. Concerning the fasteners, that is also attended to in the plans.

Sorry if I seem dismissive about this but the standard approach here is to own a set of plans and study them before ordering parts or making sawdust.

Leland at speakerhardware.com is our provider-in-chief for complete kits of parts. A deluxe kit will include drivers, fasteners, crossover components, jacks, wire and such.

Thanks David for your input. I already have the plans. I am filling up and saving electronic shopping carts up of the things I will need to save time
until I purchase the wood in a week. I have the speakers and tweeters already. I think I'll go ahead and cut , glue , and wire up the tweeters for
the time being. I like how the grills fit on some of the SLA builds I've seen so I was asking if any who bought them at Reliable Hardware can tell
me the dimensions and folds they purchased, as I was going to go ahead and order those items so they would be here and ready. It's no biggie though
I will just measure if I have to. Thanks again! I do plan to post some pics of my progress also so stay tuned.

These speakers are next on my list, so I am interested in your build progress. Please do share pics. Thanks.

I never purchased from Reliable but I was thinking that perhaps you could measure the baffle and the amount that it is recessed into the cab. Use those numbers to find width (grille both sides plus recessed amount both side. Subtract a bit for the folds and material thickness on both sides), and height (same procedure).

Thank you Tom. Will do

Tom Smit wrote:I never purchased from Reliable but I was thinking that perhaps you could measure the baffle and the amount that it is recessed into the cab. Use those numbers to find width (grille both sides plus recessed amount both side. Subtract a bit for the folds and material thickness on both sides), and height (same procedure).

Sorry, Tom, but -1.

kenkenni wrote:I will just measure if I have to.

This is the correct way. We are working with wood, so dead-reckoning is FTW!

I didn't see the info in the plans, but is the SLA Pro cross-overs 2k or 3.5k. I've seen them in several versions at Leland's website.
Which ones will I need if I decide to buy them pre-assembled or does it not matter?

kenkenni wrote:I didn't see the info in the plans, but is the SLA Pro cross-overs 2k or 3.5k. I've seen them in several versions at Leland's website.
Which ones will I need if I decide to buy them pre-assembled or does it not matter?

It does matter.
Driver choice helps decide, as an impedance chart for the driver will determine the crossover point.
If you bought recommended drivers, tell us what you got.

If you bought something else, tell us what you bought, with links to TS specs and hopefully an impedance chart, and you will get the advice you need...

DJPhatman wrote:

It's alright, you don't have to be sad.

The reasoning behind my idea is that it does not really involve wood thickness, only how wide and long the baffle is and how far the front of the baffle is from the front edge of the cab. I hope I explained it a bit better.

To Mr. Grant. I bought the recommended drivers in the plans. To be exact, the Alpha 6As and the Goldwood tweeters.