Clamp list suggestions

[Grant Bunter]

The building I will eventually be renting for a day to fully test the system once completed is 50' x 100'. I wouldn't dare try turning it up at the house. It will be done at the county fair grounds.

Actually, your better off testing outdoors to get your system flatish.
At least 50 feet before sound encounters any building or structure eg fence, in all directions, is the way to go.

Save your setting, then tweak by ear indoors or RTA...

[FrankORandle]

Actually, your better off testing outdoors to get your system flatish.
At least 50 feet before sound encounters any building or structure eg fence, in all directions, is the way to go.

Save your setting, then tweak by ear indoors or RTA...

The logistics of finding the outdoor space plus electric in an area where I wouldn't get the police called on me would be a challenge. I will probably get the neighbors around the fairgrounds calling the police on me but I am pretty sure I can get away with it being that it will just be a test and not an ongoing thing.

I will have an RTA in whichever driverack I end up going with.

[DJPhatman]

My question to the OP is: why are you building DR300s? Chances are EXCEPTIONALLY high that you do not need or want DR300s. They would only be recommended for very large outdoor events. Please tell us what your typical event, venue and audience size will be, and we will recommend which design and our opinion about why.

I don't need any sound system. I can't even turn up what I have now while running at half power for longer than 15 minutes before my eardrums start going numb.

I am not building this system for any reason other than to have something fun and crazy to do. I do not do any kind of gigs. I have no intentions of starting into that.

Typical event: None. Me being crazy isn't an event. It's a lifestyle.
Typical venue: My small basement.
Audience size: 1

The building I will eventually be renting for a day to fully test the system once completed is 50' x 100'. I wouldn't dare try turning it up at the house. It will be done at the county fair grounds.

While I'm a firm believer in fun, trying to move a DR300 by yourself is not fun in any way. Are you just looking for STOOPID loud to produce shits & giggles? Build 2 DR250 or 4 DR200 (<my favorites). They will not disappoint...

[FrankORandle]

While I'm a firm believer in fun, trying to move a DR300 by yourself is not fun in any way. Are you just looking for STOOPID loud to produce shits & giggles? Build 2 DR250 or 4 DR200 (<my favorites). They will not disappoint...

I am building four of the DR300. I have 4 temporary tops with the Delta Pro 8a in ported cabs tuned to 100 Hz that I recently dumped $1,200.00 into. I can't turn them up for longer than 15 minutes at half power. Eardrums start going numb running the temp tops with a pair of LAB 15 in the transmission line cabs. I am breaking in the LAB 15 a little bit every day. 15 minutes once or twice a day for 3 months per pair.

I have the two antique, 25 year old, transmission line cabinets I built from 3/4" MDF that are about the same size as the DR300. I also worked in a local independent music store for about 12 years. Half of that time the store was in a basement. I am very used to moving big heavy speakers.

I can move my speakers(drag them around) but I can't lift them up any higher than about 12" off the ground by myself. I am re-configuring the handles on the DR300 so they will be vertical near the front so the cab will have a 24" width when carried. I might leave one horizontal towards the back. Feet on the back and feet on one side.

Having spent decades working for cheap club owners and never really getting to design a system without restraint has sucked. This system build is being done without restraint. It is the kind of system I have wanted to build since I was a teenager. I will be building a killer light show after I do the sound. I have to install a secondary electrical service in the house for my systems. I installed a 200 amp service about 10 years ago but I want at least another 100 amps dedicated to my sound and lights.

I am going for stupid loud that I won't be able to turn up where the system will live. I love putting things together. The more difficult it is the more I enjoy doing it. When I saw what was inside of the DR's I knew I had to have that. I bought the CD of all the plans the same day. The sexiest speaker guts I have ever seen. Beautiful works of art and engineering.

[Grant Bunter]

Actually, your better off testing outdoors to get your system flatish.
At least 50 feet before sound encounters any building or structure eg fence, in all directions, is the way to go.

Save your setting, then tweak by ear indoors or RTA...

The logistics of finding the outdoor space plus electric in an area where I wouldn't get the police called on me would be a challenge. I will probably get the neighbors around the fairgrounds calling the police on me but I am pretty sure I can get away with it being that it will just be a test and not an ongoing thing.

I will have an RTA in whichever driverack I end up going with.

If you RTA in a room that doesn't have sufficient size, all you really do is RTA the rooms response to a broadband noise signal, not the native PA response. That isn't tuning the system.

I am breaking in the LAB 15 a little bit every day. 15 minutes once or twice a day for 3 months per pair.

Err why?
I think you have plans now, it tells you how to break in sub drivers.
The process is pretty quiet, and the job is done. Then the drivers work like they should in the cabs, from the outset...

[FrankORandle]

Actually, your better off testing outdoors to get your system flatish.
At least 50 feet before sound encounters any building or structure eg fence, in all directions, is the way to go.

Save your setting, then tweak by ear indoors or RTA...

The logistics of finding the outdoor space plus electric in an area where I wouldn't get the police called on me would be a challenge. I will probably get the neighbors around the fairgrounds calling the police on me but I am pretty sure I can get away with it being that it will just be a test and not an ongoing thing.

I will have an RTA in whichever driverack I end up going with.

If you RTA in a room that doesn't have sufficient size, all you really do is RTA the rooms response to a broadband noise signal, not the native PA response. That isn't tuning the system.

I am breaking in the LAB 15 a little bit every day. 15 minutes once or twice a day for 3 months per pair.

Err why?
I think you have plans now, it tells you how to break in sub drivers.
The process is pretty quiet, and the job is done. Then the drivers work like they should in the cabs, from the outset...

Every environment is going to be different whether it be in a big pole building, outdoors or in my small basement. It wouldn't be as if I would EQ it in a pole building then use those EQ settings in my basement or even outdoors. Everything in an environment makes a difference in the acoustics. Even a dance floor full of people. Setting the EQ in a pole building will be for testing the system in that pole building only.

My final EQ will be done in my basement after I cover the walls with 2" Auralex Studiofoam Wedges because that is where my system will live.

As to breaking in the subs. I could spend one day breaking them in as is typically done and then put them all back in their boxes to sit around for 6 months or I can throw them in my old cabs and use them. I am in no hurry. I have no deadline, no upcoming gigs.

Bill has stated in this forum that breaking woofers in through use can be done. It is what I am doing. 15 minutes per day X 180 days per pair @ approx. 38 volts = 112 hours. Pretty much all I listen to is dance music so I give them a good workout.

I have all of the plans for every BFM cab.

[Grant Bunter]

Frank,
What you say about all types of rooms having different responses is true, and makes sense.
I have no doubt you'll EQ to your room when you get there.

The "hard" part is getting native response of the system flat in the first place.
You could get pretty close simply by mirror imaging the SPL charts (without hiring out the hall).
Having that gives RTA a target EQ to respond to, obviously then taking the room into account.
That's all I'm trying to say, and it seems you're not getting that.

As far as the subs and breaking drivers in go, whatever blows your hair back is fine for your situation...

[FrankORandle]

Frank,
What you say about all types of rooms having different responses is true, and makes sense.
I have no doubt you'll EQ to your room when you get there.

The "hard" part is getting native response of the system flat in the first place.
You could get pretty close simply by mirror imaging the SPL charts (without hiring out the hall).
Having that gives RTA a target EQ to respond to, obviously then taking the room into account.
That's all I'm trying to say, and it seems you're not getting that.

As far as the subs and breaking drivers in go, whatever blows your hair back is fine for your situation...

The main reason for renting the building is just to be able to run the system wide open(carefully) one time. I can't do that at home. I'd have plaster cracking and windows falling out, old house. It would also make my neighbors hate me. I respect my neighbors.

I should be able to get something decent with the analyzer at home after I treat the walls, ceilings and floor. I will probably do 2" Auralex studio foam wedges on the walls, 1" on the ceiling and carpet on the floor. Maybe some bass traps in the corners.

[Nordo]

You guys are getting a little bit OT as far as clamps are concerned.

However, I have a question that's a bit more on topic.

How far apart do you locate the screws?
Obviously one each end, about 1" in. But how far apart do you place the rest to clamp the joint and take out any warps?

Cheers

[88h88]

Typical event: None. Me being crazy isn't an event. It's a lifestyle.
Typical venue: My small basement.
Audience size: 1

Godspeed sir.

[DJPhatman]

You guys are getting a little bit OT as far as clamps are concerned.

However, I have a question that's a bit more on topic.

How far apart do you locate the screws?
Obviously one each end, about 1" in. But how far apart do you place the rest to clamp the joint and take out any warps?

Cheers

Every 4-6 inches, or so. 100 to 150mm. If you are using clamps and no fasteners, us a clamping board, like the one described in the plans.

[Nordo]

You guys are getting a little bit OT as far as clamps are concerned.

However, I have a question that's a bit more on topic.

How far apart do you locate the screws?
Obviously one each end, about 1" in. But how far apart do you place the rest to clamp the joint and take out any warps?

Cheers

Every 4-6 inches, or so. 100 to 150mm. If you are using clamps and no fasteners, us a clamping board, like the one described in the plans.

Cheers.
That's what I thought.