BillFitzmaurice.info

LelandCrooks wrote:I too have built a jillion cabinets. Occasionally I use yellow glue for some styles, but none of Bill's. It can be done, no doubt. If I were doing it with a horn though, I'd caulk the joints. It's not so much about the strength (pl is stronger, I tested it) as it is the air. Even a pinhole will affect performance. Pl is as much about insurance against that as anything else.


You should run an impedance sweep when you're done if you're able.

Nice work btw.

Thanks for the compliment!

I will definitely run an impedance sweep when the box is complete.

More progress:

I'm getting close to getting this thing complete, here is the last of the 15" wide panels getting glued in:


Horn mouth brace going in:


Almost ready for the other side panel:


Getting ready to glue on the other side panel, I put glue all along the panel edges and then set the side on temporarily. I then take it off to see where glue transferred. Ideally it will have transferred everywhere, but that never happens. Spots where it didn't transfer are areas that will need extra clamping. This one came out looking pretty good:


After letting the glue soak in for a couple minutes I put another bead on all the panel edges and its ready for the side panel to be attached. I can never have too many clamps:


After the glue dries I'll trim the side panels down flush with the router. Then it will start to look presentable.

Well its at least starting to look a little more complete. I trimmed up all the edges:


Here it is with the access cover temporarily in place:

Pretty.

Well I got this thing finished up today. Here are a few more pics:






Here is an impedance sweep I did using my DATS, I'm not an expert on interpreting these things, but it matched very closely with my Hornresp simulation:

Matched up? Like how? Was the sweep taken with everything closed up?

For starters, that peak above 100 Hz is awfully large for any horn sub.

Radian wrote:Matched up? Like how? Was the sweep taken with everything closed up?

For starters, that peak above 100 Hz is awfully large for any horn sub.

Yup with everything closed up. By matched up I mean the frequencies at which the peaks occur are very close to my hornresp sim.

I took a impedance sweep before I had everything sealed up with gasket tape. The peak at ~120 Hz was lower then, I'm not sure what that means. I might try taking another measurement. DATS can be kinda finicky.

Was it up on the bench when you measured?

Radian wrote:Was it up on the bench when you measured?

Yes it was.

If possible, I'd recommend another sweep with the cabinet down on the floor (1/2 space), it will clean that curve up a bit and reveal other issues more clearly, if there are any to be had.

How did this cabinet end up? The build was impeccable. The selected driver was a little out of spec. I hope there was a happy ending to all this effort. We are left hanging...

caddylackn wrote:How did this cabinet end up? The build was impeccable. The selected driver was a little out of spec. I hope there was a happy ending to all this effort. We are left hanging...

Actually I was just recently able to get the time to haul the cabinet outside to get some good half space measurements. Here is what I got:

This measurement was taking at 6.3 volts measured from 10 feet, so it should be pretty close to what a 1W/1M measurement would be.

I also did an impedance sweep while I had it outside, since that was suggested to me, here is the result of that:


Compared to my Hornresp model it appears my enclosure is tuned slightly higher, but otherwise matches up very well with the simulated response:


I'm happy with how the enclosure came out. I mostly built it just for the experience, the WAF factor is way too low for it to be allowed in my house, but I knew that before I built it.