BillFitzmaurice.info

Tom Smit wrote:The vid with the 2" driver is hilarious.

Mount it in the dead space of a T60 with a plexi cover and watch people scratch their heads.

Well, they have finally made it back to my shop. Tonight I start wood filling and sanding to prep for paint. I think I'm going to try the Restore 10x on them (on a scrap piece first of course) as see how it goes. If it works out well, I'll use it on my pa tops as well. I really dislike carpet on cabs!

CoronaOperator wrote:Mount it in the dead space of a T60 with a plexi cover and watch people scratch their heads.

We're going to do SOMETHING with them.

Restore 10x is not a good product. I would reconsider using it.

abrockey wrote: I think I'm going to try the Restore 10x on them (on a scrap piece first of course) as see how it goes.

Don't. It has a rough sandpaper like finish, and if you rub your hands or other body parts against it the result will be as if it was finished in 40 grit sandpaper. Use DuraTex.

Thanks guys. I've searched for alternatives based on the experience my friend has had with it but at the end of the day all roads lead back to duratex. I have shifted gears and will use duratex. Time to fire up the wood stove!!

abrockey wrote:I've searched for alternatives based on the experience my friend has had with it

If your friend had a bad experience with DuraTex it was due to user error. It's the best product I've ever used, only surpassed by by LineX, which costs at least three times as much.

Do your speakers stick together when you stack them? That's the issue he has. Its been over 4 years since he build his speakers and while dry to the touch, they are like glue after the speakers have been stacked. Any ideas? I've read the tips, watched the videos, and searched the web. I can't find anything about it anywhere! Only 5 star reviews!

abrockey wrote:Do your speakers stick together when you stack them? That's the issue he has. Its been over 4 years since he build his speakers and while dry to the touch, they are like glue after the speakers have been stacked. Any ideas? I've read the tips, watched the videos, and searched the web. I can't find anything about it anywhere! Only 5 star reviews!

They didn't get cured properly.

Secondly put chevron corners on those things! Then they don't stick and stack perfectly. Even if you have rubber feet on 'em - flip the top one over so it locks to the bottom one.

Bruce Weldy wrote:They didn't get cured properly.

+1. Or, the user didn't apply at the proper temperature. Or maybe (s)he even forgot to mix the DuraTex just before use. How did your friend apply the DuraTex? Did (s)he spray it, roll it or brush it? Was it applied with a thin 1st coat, allowed to fully cure then followed by a thicker 2nd and following coats, allowing for plenty of cure time in between?

Follow ALL the instructions that come with DuraTex. Don't worry about sanding the wood with any grit higher than 80, as it is a waste of time.

So, I ordered duratex last wednesday... too cold to ship, hold till monday... monday get a call, too cold to ship, tuesday, too cold to ship. I cancelled the order. I agree they have the best product for this, but the weather forecast isn't going to get any better anytime soon. SO... I need options. Obviously the restore products are out, what else is there? One thought is the roll on bed liner from rustoleum. Thoughts? Ideas? My tubas are prepped and ready for paint!



oh yeah, I called the local line-x. They want $125 per box... next.

abrockey wrote:So, I ordered duratex last wednesday... too cold to ship, hold till monday... monday get a call, too cold to ship, tuesday, too cold to ship. I cancelled the order. I agree they have the best product for this, but the weather forecast isn't going to get any better anytime soon. SO... I need options. Obviously the restore products are out, what else is there? One thought is the roll on bed liner from rustoleum. Thoughts? Ideas? My tubas are prepped and ready for paint!

It's also too cold to apply it, and too cold to cure it. If you use a bedliner in the house the stink will drive you out, and then you'll be too cold too.

I have a heated 40x40 shop to work in w/ wood stove and 100,000 BTU oil fired furnace. I've also been leaving the furnace on keeping the shop at 50 degrees since the temperatures plunged below freezing.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: It's also too cold to apply it, and too cold to cure it.

Since we're on the subject, would one of those cheapy 500W halogens like HD sells help to cure properly. Or, are there other factors like humidity etc. to consider? This would probably be in a garage at 50f ambient temps and it's usually high humidity around here (N. coast CA)