BillFitzmaurice.info

Dan56 wrote: Yes, light will not test a dado or rabbet joint. But, how about blowing 125lbs of air along the joint if I need to and see what happens to baby power or talcum powder spread along the opposite side. Or better, powdered colored poster paint. Or line chalk. We'll have some psychedelic effects inside the cab when it's done. Tie dye like.

Liquid or paint testing won't work at all, it will just seep into the bubbles. The only problem with the air test is that you aren't testing a pressurized system that way. Air will take the path of least resistance, which will naturally be to the sides of the nozzle, not through some tiny air path. However, when you seal the cab, all bets are off. the path of least resistance WILL be through that seam.

Besides... it will take far less time and effort to just slather the GG joints up with with silicone and use the PL for the rest of the joints! Ounce of prevention, pound of cure, etc.

We have gotten further along with putting the these together. Because of the means of joinery, the order of piecing it together was changed a bit.

The issue voiced here was getting the last side onto the cab do to the dado groove that the inner panels need to fit in. I was not too concerned and Tim was not concerned at all.

Let me again qualify, I'm not suggesting anyone do it this way. However, if you do have the skill and desire to do rabbets and dado's then our order of assembly will make it easier. The approach is kind of a modular means. It would not work doing it with butt joints so don't try it. The rabbets and dado's allow this approach to assembly.

In the last pictures, the inner panels were glued together (baffle, 3, 4, 5, 6) using the dados of one side panel to assure their proper alignment. They were not at that time glued to the side panel. These were then removed. The top and back panel were assembled with panel 9 (that top back upper corner piece) again using the side panel's rabbets to assure alignment. The top and back were rabbeted also which aids the alignment and squaring process. Doing it this way made putting panel 9 in a breeze.

The braces were cut, the inner panels were set back into the side panel and the braces for panel 3/5 and 4/6 were put in place. With that done the other side panel was put on. As Tim wrote in his note, a piece of cake. The top/back assembly was then put in place. This is how they currently are in the pictures.

With this order of assembly, the last 2 panels are the bottom and #11. The braces for panel 5/8 (back) will go in from the bottom. The bottom goes on and then panel 11 is put in place through the throat opening. Panel 6 trim will be put on as we do the flanges and finish that bracing. The trim was cut at the time of the other inner panels and are ready to go.

I will be putting 2 sets of connectors on these. 2 front in panel 6 and 2 rear bottom of the back. The fronts are to avoid someone hitting the connection if they are wall or corner loaded.

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This weekend I'll be initiating the new speakers to the sensation of power. If I set them on their backs should I be concerned about heat build up during the break in?

Nice. Skill too. I've done the cabs with dadoes, biscuits, just about everything. Doing it with dadoes on both sides your construction has to be spot on. Well done.

Here are a couple more pictures. This is the 5/6 panel with the braces going in place to meet the baffle/4/3 assembly. The 5/6 assembly is set in the side panel dado's and then the baffle/6/3 assembly is added to it. Everything is square and the other side panel goes on. Tim's word was actually "like butter".
The next photo is the assembly of the back panel, top and panel 9.

LelandCrooks wrote:Nice. Skill too. I've done the cabs with dadoes, biscuits, just about everything. Doing it with dadoes on both sides your construction has to be spot on. Well done.

Thanks Leland. All the credit goes to Tim's skill. I'm just the money man.

Dan56 wrote:This weekend I'll be initiating the new speakers to the sensation of power. If I set them on their backs should I be concerned about heat build up during the break in?

Set them up so the back can 'breathe'. I generally just set them on a carpeted floor, leaning up against something.

ripNdeb wrote:

Dan56 wrote:This weekend I'll be initiating the new speakers to the sensation of power. If I set them on their backs should I be concerned about heat build up during the break in?

Set them up so the back can 'breathe'. I generally just set them on a carpeted floor, leaning up against something.

Thanks Rip, I have them running just now set face down on some spacers. Not a loud sound though there is the sound of air like the fans on the amp. I can hear the low hum and feel the vibrations.

Unfortunate I could not generate an output at 30hz from my computer/sound card. So, I'm running 35hz set for 12 hours sitting right at 10v. Don't know why there is nothing out on this card at 30hz as it said it's good for 10hz. Asus STX card.

Here's a five minute 30.87Hz sin wave "note is a B0(B zero)" you can have. It has a fade in/fade out so you can just repeat it as long as you want.

http://saltandlighteureka.org/media/BSinWave.wav

Dan56 wrote:Unfortunate I could not generate an output at 30hz from my computer/sound card. So, I'm running 35hz set for 12 hours sitting right at 10v. Don't know why there is nothing out on this card at 30hz as it said it's good for 10hz. Asus STX card.

What are you using to produce the tone? I've used Audacity on built-in sound cards on computers with no problems. Have you tried using an app on your phone to your amp?

A soft synth in Cakewalk Sonar

jimbo7 wrote:

Dan56 wrote:Unfortunate I could not generate an output at 30hz from my computer/sound card. So, I'm running 35hz set for 12 hours sitting right at 10v. Don't know why there is nothing out on this card at 30hz as it said it's good for 10hz. Asus STX card.

What are you using to produce the tone? I've used Audacity on built-in sound cards on computers with no problems. Have you tried using an app on your phone to your amp?

Yes, Audacity. Had read here about that high pitch sound also. Had to set the sample to over 90,000k (from memory not at that computer right now).

ripNdeb wrote:Here's a five minute 30.87Hz sin wave "note is a B0(B zero)" you can have. It has a fade in/fade out so you can just repeat it as long as you want.

http://saltandlighteureka.org/media/BSinWave.wav

Thank Rip, I had seen that in another of your posts and down loaded it. It worked fine on my laptop (which I leave at my mothers as I stay there to help with my step dad) so I figured it would work at the home machine but no results using both windows player and Quicktime.

This is a weird thing. I played a song through the speakers to make sure everything was working and check the voltage changes. But, once I try a tone below below 35hz nothing shows as a change above 3 volts. As I go up in tones I have to drop the volume to keep the voltage down, I guess that is do to lower tones needing more power. The amp is a Crown xls 802.

Would love to have an update on progress and final impressions. How's it going?

Being, that the only sub I've built is an AutoTuba (and with crap wood at that) I can't comment on the difficulty and complexity of the altered build but hopefully it all comes together.

Rickisan wrote:Would love to have an update on progress and final impressions. How's it going?

Being, that the only sub I've built is an AutoTuba (and with crap wood at that) I can't comment on the difficulty and complexity of the altered build but hopefully it all comes together.

Hi Riick,

Unfortunately the build has stalled as my friend has focused on finishing his 69 Camaro. It's ice cream season and he's had this car for a decade, this is the year. Though I have mentioned that if he would just finish the assembly I would do the rest. As there is little left to go.

As so as I have more on these I will certainly post. We have an outdoor gig June 13th and was hoping to have the system for then but I don't think it will happen. I have 2 OT12's to build. I at least got the cross overs assembled.

Dan56 wrote:Unfortunately the build has stalled as my friend has focused on finishing his 69 Camaro. It's ice cream season and he's had this car for a decade, this is the year. Though I have mentioned that if he would just finish the assembly I would do the rest. As there is little left to go.

Well, if your buddy didn't insist on inflating a one-week project into a two month grind with all that fancy jointery, you'd already be rocking out by now.

Just say'n...Gorgeous cabs, but