BillFitzmaurice.info

the holes I drilled for speaker mounting had some ' breakout ' on the back side of the spacing ring
So I filled it in with some good bonding floor patch, sanded it smooth and then sealed the surface uniformly with a thin but generous layer of PL applied with a finger. slick and flat.

I had to used a "bonded washer" under the flat washer and external star lockwasher to seal leaks WRT mounting screws.

build picture, williamtomkiel.imgur.com
Soooooooooooooo glad I took the time and listened to those who have gone before.
You're gonna love it.
And my first impulse was "I gotta build another one. This is a monster.

The construction is complete. Still need to do the finish work. When hooked up to the bash 300 I can't get the volume above 30% before there is too much noise from heater vents and things hanging on the wall and who knows what else. I am quite impressed, especially considering I used the cheapest ($119) recommended Parts Express driver. When I ran the auto EQ for my surround processor, a message came up to turn down the sub woofer and start again. I watched an episode of Band of Brothers and my wife came out of the bath wondering what was going on and telling me her bathtub was vibrating...

I too had some roughness around the speaker mounting spacer, so following the previous advice I used some filler and then sanded it flat. The speaker sealed fine except for the 4 joints in the gasket itself. I sealed them with some adhesive.

A couple of points for future builders:
1. Dry fit and CLAMP all pieces just the way you are going to when you glue them. This includes guide boards and straight edges. This helped me align the pieces and find a strong way to clamp them without making a mess with the adhesive. - I didn't start out doing this
2. Clamp a straight edge to the first two panels opposite the first joint and leave them there until the last panel of the build. Keep checking the entire project for square as you build. I only used a straight edge on panel 1. The unattached edge of panel 2 warped a bit in the first few days and I had to keep pulling it square with each new panel.

I think I am going to upholster it with a large cushion on top and see how it works as a settee/bench/acoustic massage bed.

Thanks all for the help and Bill for the great plans.

Ken

I had a few feet of 1x4 popular left over and made a box to protect the bash amp.
FYI: Where the volume knob is set in the picture shakes the whole house.

a Photo of the finished THT Low Pro would be real nice

here are pics from my first (red) and 2nd build
at williamtomkiel.imgur.com
there are photos my my newly minted 30" THTLP's, under test outdoors. the picture is labeled :twin 30" etc. the rest are of my 24" build for the man cave.
In another thread, coverings is discussed. FRom E-bay I got 15 yds, 48" wide with shipping for $60. The stuff is only 2 mm thick. there's a pic of that on the first one done. I used Weldwood nonflammable contact cement. For the 2 boxes I used about 3/4 gallon. This is actually faster that spray can adhesive as I didn't have to do any masking to prevent overspray on finished sides. AND if something didn't quite stick I could use a small brush to address problem areas. As an experienced painter I kept a bucket of soapy water to toss the main brush into and cleaned it with more water and a wire brush. I cleaned it about 2 dozen times (and after 20 years, its all good) when you think about how many surfaces there are. Dealing with the edges needed some penciling with regard to what piece would overlap which and where.
The speaker chamber end caps. The pic is called chamber . . I've used 1 and 1/2" by 1 and 1/2 oak blocks for attaching the end caps instead of 1/2" plywood.. I did not follow the plans . I had the material and knew I just might assure myself of things being "airtight" . I used 1 and 5/8's spax screws on 2' centers to attach the end cap and predrilled everything to death. I wanted to use trim heads but unseen voids didn't give me a uniform appearance so I just kingkonged it.
And those vintage Dynaco A-25's? When I bought them in 1971 as a full range main stereo, I thought, yeah, ok, put some power to it. Who knew about subs and placement and etc., etc., etc. The onkyo 160 uses a sub xo of 80 and I figured maybe them 40 yo speakers would like a little assistance with the heavy lifting. I put the subs at about 25% vol and the amp at "70", not even reference. and outside and its a party.
Inside I'll run the onkyo 818 and xt32. My front there are Klipsch F-3's. But I just might A-B with the Dynacos , in stereo just for and giggles.
Long term is to bring in the laptop, REW amd the 1124p for serious analysis.
But it sure is FUN!
p.s. WAF = 0.

I too have the BASH 300's but I would not put them in anything not as totally open as possible for ventilation purposes.
Behind my MITSY 73" I put up 3 rowsof open wire closet shelving that holds stuff, but you can't see it. That's where I expect to put the 1124p, the 300's .
Then I'll run 16 gauge out to the subs.