BillFitzmaurice.info

OK, I get it: Neutrik NL4MP.
Apparently there are no issues with being installed airtight to the panel and/or airtight "plug" issues.
good enough.
I would like info or a link to a parts/ wiring diagram to complete connection with the amp
thanks.

Image at williamtomkiel.imgur.com

june 1st side 9 finally! pics on imgur

A new question and new pics at imgur and
specically
the last one with PE mounting gasket tape applied to face of speaker frame
and the question:
do I need a touch more in the area of the bolt insertion thru the frame ? You can an "easing" notch.
Everything has gone very well so far, if not so quickly, but I'd rather pause for knowlegible feedback WRT such a simple question because its so dang important with respect to the absolute necessity of AIRTIGHT, as in FTP!
Would a dab of silicon in the t-nut thread be advisable WRT maintaining "airtight" helping the system stay "well screwed"

I doubt you'll get enough air leakage past the T nut threads to create much of an air leak, but if you do decide to put anything on the threads, use #242 blue service removable Loctite. I wouldn't use silicon or anything else. This puts enough gum on the threads to seal them and prevent loosening, but it's still relatively easy to remove the fasteners for servicing.

Thank you, blue 242 it is
any comment about the gasket material placement?

byacey wrote: but if you do decide to put anything on the threads, use #242 blue service removable Loctite.

asarose247 wrote:Thank you, blue 242 it is

Don't do it. Don't use Loctite. You'll make the driver a permanent addition to the cabinet.

I've already tested this personally...all the way down to 222 (low strength purple). It will spin no matter what. Still too much break away and running torque.

A healthy dollop of rubber cement or a couple drops of plain 'ol Elmer's white glue is all it takes.

I repeat: Loctite (of any strength) + t-nut or hurricane nuts = upon removal

I've never experienced this problem. The T nuts were held captive by a couple of #6 wood screws to prevent spinning. A drop of 242 doesn't take much torque to release. The T nuts we used here however aren't the round type, they are sort of rectangular with a couple wings on the ends.

I'll post a picture tomorrow if I remember. I'd like to see if someone can identify the manufacturer, because I haven't been able to find more like them as of late.

I asked for wprkable advice and I thankyou .

I may try a test or 2 with some extra t-nut, with and without epoxy and then with a few "sealing" options.

But this being my first build, I would choose to err on the side of caution and have a "replacement "option.

good progress and test results . . .
speaker is airtight to panel 6 , I used some #10 "bonded" washers on the #8 screws and some silicon under those washers, no more bypass of the bolts, there will be a pic
and rear panel also well sealed . . .
testing with the NCH tone generator free ware ,for a while, from Cnet.
I didn't take it below 20 hz but then its still in the garage so its pretty much open field and shaking stuff . . .
The bash 300 really puts out with the dial only between 9 and 10 "oclock"
Since I expect it to be in the best spot I'm not going to do much finish
I can drape it with some sheer darkish panels from Big Lots and call it invisible, as the mancave goes absolutely dark. I need some "smoke dots" for assorted panel lights.
I have a lot of home resources allocations to jack around but I'll post more pics
TO ANY Future Builders: READ everything on any DIY thread. ASK all the questions no matter what.
The DIY community: unconditional support , they'll do their best not to let you fail and have fun while you succeed.
and then . . .
The hook is set!

asarose247 wrote: The hook is set!

Ooooooh yeeeeees! It's fun, isn't it?

Glad it all turned out good for you!

Several new pics posted
Unit is also shown installed in my room. Mouth 24 inches from the right wall on risers about 13-14 inches high, foam underneath for vibration isolation on a wooden raised floor
Now this is math and I'd like to see what feedback this ''inspires", creative bunch that this is . . .
The room is 10 x 11 x8 or just under 900 ft 3
The sub is 18x 24 x72 or about 18 ft3.
What is it like to have your sub take up 2% of your total room volume?
For all the discussions I have read about the hows and whys and wheres of sub builds, placement etc. etc. etc,
I have never seen any discussion about that sort of ratio so . . .
Discuss !?
So far we've tried out U-571, scene 1and the opening battle scene of LOTR.
My hat is off to the DIY community.
Thank you.

asarose247 wrote:foam underneath for vibration isolation on a wooden raised floor .

Don't bother. If the floor vibrates it's in response to the low frequency output of the sub, and foam won't affect that.

Transformers 1opening attack on the base in Qatar is my goto test scene. 10.minutes of pure room shaking pleasure helicopters, massive autobot gatlin gun, tanks flying throught the air, energy weapons, etc along with brass horns to test how convincing your mains sound and dialog. Welcome to the zone! If a THT is deployed right your couch will move with big hits.

The THTLP in the mancave is a "roaring" success but other family issues have intervened and testing with REW has been forestalled ,
HOWEVER, and I am led to believe I'll get an "enlightening" amount of input . . .
2 THTLP's at 29.5 wide will give me mouth area of 1062 sq. in.
4 using 12" drivers at 12 x15 will give me 720 sq. in. mouth area.
I enjoyed building the first one and doing 2 at the same time can't be that much extra work.
Now that I've not only planned my retirement but I have the advantage of the much of the combined experience of "oops" and "oooooooohyeah! " I know that 2 is advised for placement in larger rooms from "your multiple sub placement options threads . . @ HTS, here, AVS and so forth.
Both will be powered by a BASH 300 though I'm willing and going to hear , I suspect, other options . . .
SO!
What'cha got?
(I'd insert images but for now its O.K.)