Working bacwards

[Michael Murphy]

I see. At bruce. Ok some advice on the db series. The 260 has eq. However If like a seperate eq. And just want liming, crossover and rta. What choices in the Drive rock series are recommended

[Bruce Weldy]

I see. At bruce. Ok some advice on the db series. The 260 has eq. However If like a seperate eq. And just want liming, crossover and rta. What choices in the Drive rock series are recommended

They all have EQ plus an auto EQ wizard that will set the system flat - using a reference mic. The mic is around $100 new - half that used.

I just don't see using a 260 unless you need to run multiple zones, delay towers, etc.

[Michael Murphy]

Ok, I got ya on the extra features which I will never use. I started to read the PA+ owners manual. One Question with the cross over section, for those who may have one, I want to make sure the bass and tops can be HPassed and LPassed. That is to say It will be able to HP at 40hz also LP 100Hz for the bass? also HP at 100 and LP at 20kHz?
If this is the case how come you guys go with the beringer combo, is it cost or just personal choice

[Bruce Weldy]

Ok, I got ya on the extra features which I will never use. I started to read the PA+ owners manual. One Question with the cross over section, for those who may have one, I want to make sure the bass and tops can be HPassed and LPassed. That is to say It will be able to HP at 40hz also LP 100Hz for the bass? also HP at 100 and LP at 20kHz?
If this is the case how come you guys go with the beringer combo, is it cost or just personal choice

Yes, you can high and low pass Low, Mids, and Highs. Unless you are bi-amping the tops, you'll just use Low and High.

Why wouldn't you use the "extra" features? Even if you prefer a stand alone EQ, you use the EQ on the driverack to set your system flat (outside) one time and leave it, then use the standalone to make adjustments for a particular venue. It's a whole lot easier if everything is flat to start with - no need in re-inventing the wheel every time you set up.

[Michael Murphy]

+1 on that. Lookin at it from that point of view. Knew id get good advice. So ebay here I come.....

[Michael Murphy]

Used open box. 100% on seller, 430us free shippin to florida. Paid. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel

[Bruce Weldy]

Used open box. 100% on seller, 430us free shippin to florida. Paid. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel

You can do better than that. I bought one for $300 including the mic a couple of years ago. Which model is it?

Remember you can use any of the P-line. PA is the older model - works fine (i've got one), PA+ is the updated version (got that one too). PX is designed for powered cabs, but what that really means is that it is only a two way xover - which is all you need anyway with BFM cabs since they have passive xovers in the tops.

So, pick your poison.....but, look for a better deal.

[Bruce Weldy]

Here's a few.....just search for dbx driverack, auction only. There are a bunch out there at good prices. And don't be afraid of the PA because it's older - the only difference that I found is that the auto EQ wizard is a little slower.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DBX-DRIVERACK-P ... 19d9f8539d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/dbx-driverack-p ... 33807a5623

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-DBX-DriveR ... 5aef055436

this one has the mic it looks like...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DBX-DriveRack-P ... 3ccfb77a57

[Michael Murphy]

PA + Paid for it already. I know i could have agoten ot a lil cheaper but this seller takes returns or moneyback. Garantee. Figures it was worth the extra

[Bruce Weldy]

PA + Paid for it already. I know i could have agoten ot a lil cheaper but this seller takes returns or moneyback. Garantee. Figures it was worth the extra

That certainly gives a little peace of mind. Keep us updated.

[Michael Murphy]

Hey guys, just wanted to provide a lil feed back on the comments and limiting, after going through some other posts. I see what grant means about not being able to provide 46v with limiting. I cant remember who the original poster was, bruce I think, and it went on to relate the limiting procedure and what I gather from it is that when setting up with the gains on the mixer up if you cant hold the transient voltage to limit, say 50v you need to go up in db incriments to hold the transient down but this reduces your usual max voltage to the speaker I think in the thread I was reading it was down to 36v.
Is this true am I interpreting this right

[Grant Bunter]

Hey pumpsfast,
Mate, you're getting closer!

Transients are about what the amplifier can produce, the term transient means "for a brief period of time".
So your amp capable of 42V according to specification, may be able to produce transients of up to 420V (ie the ten times as mentioned by Bill) but only for a brief period of time, as an example only, say 50-100 milliseconds. While not a long period of time in reality, that's long enough to do damage to your driver.

Limiter is "last in the chain", so technically, it shouldn't matter what you do to your gain structure from source in all the way through to the limiter. However, lots of/too much gain generally shows up as distortion.
Once set, the limiter should never let you show more than the measurement in volts you set it at.
And that means you have eliminated the transients.

All that is left for you to decide, once you have everything up and running, is if your current amps maximum output (excluding transients, but limited to some figure in the order of 40 something volts) is enough for your subs.
If it turns out not to be, that's where my suggestion of selling 4 of your amps to buy a new one that can run your sub cabs up to maximum acceptable voltage came from...

[Michael Murphy]

Hey Grant, thanks again. I really see where this QSC 1400 is underpowered especially after reading the thread amp power vs frequency
http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... =6&t=19367
Im gonna crank up an amp with my lap top and mixer and do some tests of my own to see what kinda voltages im getting.
Oh and the amp you could not find the specs on in another one of my posts, i refered to 2050 was supposed to be QSC 2450
http://www.qscaudio.com/products/amps/rmx/rmx.htm
its got some power
So im kinda fiddlin around here, anxious as hell, waiting for the rest of the gear to get here and was just trying to work out some stuff in my brain and the next question in contention was HP filters setting. Before I read that it should be L/R at 48db. So say because Im running the 4 T39's V plated the corner freq is 40hz and I use the L/R at 48db this ensures that no content below 40hz will be sent to the speaker, correct? If you set it at 24db it will let some lower freq signals pass. Im trying to relate this to almost like the hard knee vs soft knee thing on limiters
I know im kinda all over the place and im trying not to ask to much untill the gear gets here because then I can read the manual and test etc, but the HP question has kinda been on my mind for a while
Thanks

[Tom Smit]

Before I read that it should be L/R at 48db. So say because Im running the 4 T39's V plated the corner freq is 40hz and I use the L/R at 48db this ensures that no content below 40hz will be sent to the speaker, correct? If you set it at 24db it will let some lower freq signals pass. Im trying to relate this to almost like the hard knee vs soft knee thing on limiters
I know im kinda all over the place and im trying not to ask to much untill the gear gets here because then I can read the manual and test etc, but the HP question has kinda been on my mind for a while
Thanks

You pretty much got the jist of it. 48db per octave is more than 24. It's like slamming the fader down all the way rather than half, on whatever is below 40hz.

[Michael Murphy]

Sweet, and the reason for doing this is
1, to easy up the amp a little, because
2, if the corner freq of the box is x
3, it dont make sense to send lower freq to the driver, because
4, it cant reproduce it in said enclosure and
5, it can damage the driver
?????