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Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:16 pm
by Ian Westwood
67baja wrote:You know, when I built my curved SLA and now everytime I see someone else building one, I wonder if you could do the baffle as one piece. Instead of cutting each individual baffle section, just cut a kerf about 3/4 of the way through the wood at the appropriate places, fill the kerfs with glue, then bend and clamp at the correct radius. Make sense? I may have to try it to see if it works. I'm sure it would work with plywood, but a solid wood baffle may not work.
Ian, with the volume of that cab, you could probably add a port for extended bass response if so desired. Granted, with a sub you don't need it, but IF you wanted more bass out of that center you could do it.
Ha, I might try that myself! I know you can get bendy ply but you'd want the baffle to be straight where the speakers mount I suppose. I wonder if soaking the ply before bending would make it work better?
When would you cut the holes? If you did it before bending it might become too fragile to bend?
Funny you should say that, the Audessy MultiEQ XT32 wanted to cross the center over at 50Hz. It sounded awesome but only at very low volumes. I set the cross over manually to 90Hz to match the others.
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:34 pm
by Ian Westwood
I just ran a couple of pieces over the table saw
The oak just snapped immediately with & across the grain.
But the BB was better. I tried it twice. 'just' got away with it the second time. You would need the Midas touch for shizzle!
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:40 pm
by 67baja
Ian Westwood wrote: Ha, I might try that myself! I know you can get bendy ply but you'd want the baffle to be straight where the speakers mount I suppose. I wonder if soaking the ply before bending would make it work better?
When would you cut the holes? If you did it before bending it might become too fragile to bend?
Funny you should say that, the Audessy MultiEQ XT32 wanted to cross the center over at 50Hz. It sounded awesome but only at very low volumes. I set the cross over manually to 90Hz to match the others.
Just cut the kerf deep enough that it bends. You could could cut the kerf from the back side so there was no seams on the front at all, but wider gaps to fill on the back. Or you could cut them from the front and it should look just like they were individual baffles sections. The holes could be cut first or after the kerfs, just as long as it was before the baffle was bent.
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:49 pm
by Ian Westwood
Ooops!
Probably didn't like being bent 2 ways! I wonder if water would help or ruin it?
Looking at this pic I might have cut too deep. Should have kept the last 2 plies untouched perhaps?
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 4:11 pm
by Bas Gooiker
Bending will only work with the cuts being the inside of the radius. Why dont you get the thinnest possible ply and laminate it to the front of all the individual baffles. Or a really thin piece of veneer.
As for the other idea... In desperate times a real man might wet himself.
But never his workpiece.
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 4:22 pm
by Ian Westwood
I haven't wet myself for a couple of weeks now
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 4:34 pm
by 67baja
Well it looks like cutting the kerf in the front works as long as the blade is thick enough to get the desired radius. Success! As for the outside radius maybe if you left say 3 plies uncut it would work.
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 5:10 pm
by Bill Fitzmaurice
67baja wrote:You know, when I built my curved SLA and now everytime I see someone else building one, I wonder if you could do the baffle as one piece. Instead of cutting each individual baffle section, just cut a kerf about 3/4 of the way through the wood at the appropriate places, fill the kerfs with glue, then bend and clamp at the correct radius. Make sense?
Almost. That technique is used with a CNC equipped with an angle bit that comes to a sharp point. About 1/32" of material is left uncut on the face, then it's folded and glued.
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 2:39 pm
by Rick Lee
Ian Westwood wrote:The table saw is history. I have totally our grown it. I just need to find a replacement. I'm starting to get build jobs now and can't afford to have a table saw I don't trust. I'm looking at Festool track saws. They look awesome, but eye wateringly expensive. I reckon $1000 to set myself up with what I need...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AQ ... IJU3AU4X6K
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/248
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 3:05 pm
by Ian Westwood
Awesome. Thanks for that.
Did some reading. Seems the grizzly and the Scheppach are one in the same thing.
The wood whisperer is doing a review as soon as it becomes available at the end of March. He's a Festool fanboy so it will be interesting to see what he makes of it!
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:01 pm
by 67baja
I love my festool track saw. If I ever get the prybar into the fold of my wallet, I will order the parallel guide set to go with it. But that is another $325. Stupid expensive but top level pro grade tools.
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:13 pm
by Ian Westwood
67baja wrote:I love my festool track saw. If I ever get the prybar into the fold of my wallet, I will order the parallel guide set to go with it. But that is another $325. Stupid expensive but top level pro grade tools.
I know!! Crazy prices!! I have noticed that as a generalization people with the Festool track saws tend to have the better looking builds... yours are no exception!
I saw an old dude with a bad back post a video of him handling full sheets... sliding them off the truck onto his home made track saw table and ripping perfect strips using with the parallel guide set. Very impressive. Didn't even break a sweat. It would have taken me an hour to prepare my table saw to get going and still wouldn't have been as accurate as Festool plus old guy ingenuity.
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:06 pm
by Oscillate
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:15 pm
by Ian Westwood
You, sir, are a man of few words for shizzle.
Re: Curved SLA build with added jig
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:16 pm
by 67baja
...yeah...um... it just does not seem quite the same to me. There are lots of way to cut a straight line, but the track saws (the real track saws) make it sooo easy. Bevels are perfect angles and right on the line. The sticky foam on the bottom of the track makes it so you don't need clamps 99% of the time (maybe 100% - I haven't needed them yet), the replaceable plastic edge of the track is super easy to put right on your cut line and the blade cuts it perfect right on the line, etc. You COULD use the track saw :
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... reId=10051 to build these boxes, but dang there are better ways.
My first 2 builds were done with a skillsaw and a wooden guide. Did it work? Yes. Did it work as well and as efficient as my Festool? No way, Jose. Have I even looked at my skillsaw and wooden guide since I got the Festool? nope.
