New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow

[Bas Gooiker]

Most people run their tops on a single channel. But bi-amping makes it possible to time align the Hi's to the mid.

[Zack Brock]

Most people run their tops on a single channel. But bi-amping makes it possible to time align the Hi's to the mid.

Good point, I had not considered this. I haven't noticed a need to time align the tweets to the mid driver. What sort of delay timing would you use? 1ms since its only at most a 2-3 foot horn path for the midragne driver in a DR? In an Otop or Jack, we are talking less than a foot away.

[Bas Gooiker]

Most people run their tops on a single channel. But bi-amping makes it possible to time align the Hi's to the mid.

Good point, I had not considered this. I haven't noticed a need to time align the tweets to the mid driver. What sort of delay timing would you use? 1ms since its only at most a 2-3 foot horn path for the midragne driver in a DR? In an Otop or Jack, we are talking less than a foot away.

I would suggest to use a 1ms delay to cover the physical distance of about a foot between the mid driver and tweets for a OT12. For a dr200 2 ms.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Most people run their tops on a single channel. But bi-amping makes it possible to time align the Hi's to the mid.

True. But when the highs lead the midbass there's not much advantage to it. If you can, sure, why not. But IMO it's not worth the added complexity. With typical commercial direct radiating woofer tops the highs lag the midbass, and that's a different story.

[escapemcp]

Thanks for all your useful input. I am loving soaking up all this knowledge

I have been tempted to build Titans, BUT at the free parties I organize (and for the club nights where I am planning to get a BFM system used), they play Psytrance and Dubstep. Both of these I believe have considerable <40Hz content. That's why I opted for the Tubas. Ideally I want to dive straight in and build a T60, but I think that's a little too much, too fast! I plan to have a few different systems (yes, I'm hooked!), so the Tuba30 fits in quite nicely for that.

Blue TuffCote - why was it rubbish? Are you saying the colour was rubbish or the application of the paint was difficult. I was looking at the blue (hoping it is similar to Turbosound (well, Behringer now ) blue).

I have downloaded the DCX setup program for PC, and fiddling around there I can see how quickly it runs out of DSP power (it's got a %age meter bottom left). I love the fact that you can transfer the signal digitally from the DEQ to the DCX (=limiter last of course ). I was also looking at a 8024 for EQ-ing, as I could pick one up on ebay for about £20. Only problem is lack of digital in though, and the AES/EBU interface for the 8024 is about £75 - I could probably pick up a used DEQ for that total cost, and I believe that the DEQ is superior (anyone care to confirm this pls?)

Thanks for the recommended speaker list. That helps me greatly. Think I'm going to go with Lab12s, as I can pick one up for £105 (will probably get one to build the speakers around, and then buy the other one when I have completed the 2nd cab). It's annoying that they are heavy, but the 3012lf's are almost double the price and I can't find that 18sound one in the UK (but am guessing that it is at least as much as the 3012).

Finally, I was sure that I saw that the DCX does have a mic in, so checked the manual and it is indeed the case (sorry 88h88 - I am NOT trying to prove you wrong, your help so far has been invaluable , but I'm just trying to add to the vast knowledge already in this forum and it is only a very small section in the manual that mentions this). It is NOT for auto-EQ though, but rather for Auto-Align to correct phase differences between the speakers. I guess it is of limited use but someone here may be able to make use of it, especially if they already have the measuring mic and a DEQ/DCX combo.

[Chris_Allen]

Blue TuffCote - why was it rubbish? Are you saying the colour was rubbish or the application of the paint was difficult. I was looking at the blue (hoping it is similar to Turbosound (well, Behringer now ) blue).

I wanted exactly the same look, so painted my T39's in a lovely blue colour. The application of the paint was inconsistent and it didn't texture very well. Irrespective of how much it was stirred, it didn't feel to mix well and as paint goes, it simply wasn't very good.

I bought a tub of the black and it was completely different. Really good to work with, mixed well and applied well.

Whether this was just this tub of blue TuffCab, I don't know as I've only ever bought and used one. It could have been old or from a bad batch. I had no baseline at the time so didn't know what to expect. Knowing that the black is great, I would expect the same performance from the blue. I didn't send mine back because I had not worked with the product before.

[Bas Gooiker]

Blue TuffCote - why was it rubbish? Are you saying the colour was rubbish or the application of the paint was difficult. I was looking at the blue (hoping it is similar to Turbosound (well, Behringer now ) blue).

Everyone knows that blue cabinets are louder!

On speakerplans.com there are a ton of threads about the pro's and cons of tuffcab. A lot of people seem to use epoxy boat paint to go over the tuffcab.

But you could also get white Warnex and tint it with any Ral colour. Warnex has been used by many diyers and large companies like FK1 and Martin Audio! http://www.speaker-shop.nl/webshop/onde ... l9010.html I dont know if this company ships to the UK though. But you could always ask them.

[88h88]

Finally, I was sure that I saw that the DCX does have a mic in, so checked the manual and it is indeed the case (sorry 88h88 - I am NOT trying to prove you wrong, your help so far has been invaluable , but I'm just trying to add to the vast knowledge already in this forum and it is only a very small section in the manual that mentions this). It is NOT for auto-EQ though, but rather for Auto-Align to correct phase differences between the speakers. I guess it is of limited use but someone here may be able to make use of it, especially if they already have the measuring mic and a DEQ/DCX combo.

So you're right...! Typical Behringer, the manual is a right mess hence useful features get buried. Might be worth a play but you'll test phase while you're building the speakers so that part is of little use, the delay part of it might be useful though.

[Bas Gooiker]

So you're right...! Typical Behringer, the manual is a right mess hence useful features get buried. Might be worth a play but you'll test phase while you're building the speakers so that part is of little use, the delay part of it might be useful though.

The phase of the speaker at the crossover frequency can still be 180 degree opposite to the wiring of the cab.

[escapemcp]

Black it is then! Can you paint over the tuffcote once applied? Only a bit here and there (am thinking yellow highlighting), but would it adhere?

On another thread I saw that the MINIMUM tools for a build was:

A circular saw, a straight edge (or sled) to guide your circular saw, a jig saw, a drill, and a sander is the minimum list. If you use screws, no clamps will be required.

By circular saw, do you mean one of these:

or a table saw please?

[AntonZ]

But you could also get white Warnex and tint it with any Ral colour. Warnex has been used by many diyers and large companies in the industry. http://www.speaker-shop.nl/webshop/onde ... l9010.html I dont know if this company ships to the UK though. But you could always ask them.

I have used black Warnex on my WH8 build and found it very easy to apply with a small coarse foam roller and get a consistent and good looking texture. I cannot tell yet how good it will hold up over time and abuse.

[Tom Smit]

By circular saw, do you mean one of these:

or a table saw please?

https://www.google.ca/search?q=circular ... 12&bih=587

[Bas Gooiker]

The saw you show seems to be a mitre saw.

This is the circular saw i use. <15 year old Makita.

[escapemcp]

The saw you show seems to be a mitre saw.

This is the circular saw i use. <15 year old Makita.

Yeah, I was thinking that the one that I posted a pic of wouldn't have enough 'cut', 'throw' or whatever to cut the length/width of a lot of the panels (I've have got one of those saws in the garage). May have to get one of those hand held ones. Can you vary the angle of the cut right or left on those (if looking at the saw from behind)?

[escapemcp]

The saw you show seems to be a mitre saw.

This is the circular saw i use. <15 year old Makita.

Yeah, I was thinking that the one that I posted a pic of wouldn't have enough 'cut', 'throw' or whatever to cut the length/width of a lot of the panels (I've have got one of those saws in the garage). May (sorry, WILL) have to get one of those hand held ones. Can you vary the angle of the cut right or left on those (if looking at the saw from behind)?