J10L

[Fenderfan]

That's my compass full of drywall screws. When making circles or arcs, I like to score the wood first, then go over the groove with the pencil.
-Nathan

I always do the same on cuts at work when a jigsaw/ multitool is being used. A good and proper scoring as above, or with a sharp blade etc, will stop any chip out of ply or any veneers that have been applied.

[ncgrove]

Reducing chip-out was an unexpected bonus of using a compass with screws. I used drywall screws because I didn't think of drilling a hole big enough for a pencil to fit though.

I cut out and installed the driver spacer, as well as the additional top/side bracing. The side bracing is pretty easy, in that you just mash the piece to the side, and to the horn brace, wedge the staple gun in there, and fire away. The plans call for two staples through the side brace into the horn brace, but I used three- because as Bruce implied earlier, if you're gonna pull the trigger, might as well make it official.

I didn't get any more done this weekend because I was too busy drinking beers and eating crawfish with my buddies. Anyway, here's how it looks all braced up:



Anyone itching to practice their wood filling and sanding? Open invitation.

[ncgrove]

Got the back flanges and phase plug half-sphere installed. I also set the staples on the horn sheathes and filled the mess with bondo and sanded. Everything went just as expected. Has anyone else found that 5" foam balls actually measure about 4 1/2" in diameter? I figured it was close enough when cut in half.





The foam is actually centered on the phase plug. I think I took the picture from an angle.

Also, what roundover bit are yall using on boxes with 1/4" ply shells? I've been using a 3/8" roundover bit on all of my boxes made with 1/2" ply and I've had good results. I think the 3/8" roundover would look. I'm afraid it'll buzz right through the side of the box.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Also, what roundover bit are yall using on boxes with 1/4" ply shells? I've been using a 3/8" roundover bit on all of my boxes made with 1/2" ply and I've had good results. I think the 3/8" roundover would look. I'm afraid it'll buzz right through the side of the box.

3/8" works fine, the actual material thickness on the edges is 13/64 at the thinnest point, but the corner joint is also where the box is the strongest.

[ncgrove]

Thanks for the info, Bill. I ended up going with an 1/8" roundover bit. I thought it looked more proportional to the wood thickness and box size.

I installed the mounting supports for the Flat 6 tweeter array, spent a lot of time with the bondo spatula, followed by some quality work with the orbital sander.



Everything is good to go for painting. I'm stripping my old J10 (http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... ch#p164172) and putting everything in this new light cab. The original plan was to get a 2510, but I don't really feel like spending $130 more right now. I can always upgrade from the Beta 10 in the future, I guess. I'm going to use the same green color, and the cab is being primed white right now. I'll add a picture when I get it all primed so yall can see a snow white J10L.

-Nathan

[iamlowsound]

I love how the Jack Lites look and yours looks fantastic!

lowsound

[AntonZ]

The original plan was to get a 2510, but I don't really feel like spending $130 more right now. I can always upgrade from the Beta 10 in the future, I guess.

Beta 10 and 2510 do not have the exact same bolt pattern. I learned that when attempting to install a 2510 into a DR that was originally made for a Beta 10. It was no fun.

If you use wood screws for installing, you will be fine. Just fill the old holes, rotate the new driver a wee bit and make new holes.

[ncgrove]

The original plan was to get a 2510, but I don't really feel like spending $130 more right now. I can always upgrade from the Beta 10 in the future, I guess.

If you use wood screws for installing, you will be fine. Just fill the old holes, rotate the new driver a wee bit and make new holes.

That's the plan. My policy is the hassle of hurricane nuts is not worth the frustration in a Jack. #8 screws is it for me!

[ncgrove]

Got the cab all primed with two coats of Sherwin-Williams multi-purpose latex primer. You can't see in the picture, but after doing a few of these, I figured out that working hard to get a nice smooth finish is a lot of wasted effort for a cab that's going to see a lot of outdoor use. Basically, it's going to get dinged up pretty good.

Same idea with the duratex, though: the texture hides any imperfections in the wood, and covers up any sub-par bondo use. Now it's time to turn it green. More pictures when I'm done painting.

[LelandCrooks]

The jack lites are just good looking cabs.

[ncgrove]

Absolutely! The cab hasn't moved since I took that picture, and I catch myself looking at it when I walk by. Progress has been slow since the rodeo started last weekend. I saw Alan Jackson play last night. It was a great show.

For those of you who don't know about the world's biggest and best rodeo: http://hlsr.com/.

In short, it's a giant 3+ week party 10 minutes from my house.

[Harley]

The jack lites are just good looking cabs.

..and great sounding I must add.

[ncgrove]

Got it all painted. Went with the Sherwin Williams Pro Classic enamel in the semi-gloss.



Next time I'll try to paint the duct area before installing the duct panels. I don't think anyone will notice once the piezo array is installed.

I've taken the Beta 10 out of the old Jack and loaded it in the new guy. I tried to get the crossover components out of the old cab but they were glued in there pretty good. So I ordered new components today. Once everything gets in, I'll be able to do some soldering, foam gluing, wiring, and I'll be able to button her up.

[Tom Smit]

What a "brilliant" cab! You're a daring man! But, I like it. I really do.

[ncgrove]

What a "brilliant" cab! You're a daring man! But, I like it. I really do.

Thanks!....i think. My girlfriend chose the color. She uses the J10 for the fitness classes she teaches. The color turns out great for the beach, and wherever else it gets played. As typical for these things, people get very surprised that such a big sound comes from such a small, cute-looking box. I was skeptical of the green color at first, but it's grown on me. As for my bass and PA rigs, it's black duratex all the way.

I "weighed" the regular finished J10 with the Beta10 and flat pizeo array on a regular bathroom scale, and I got 38 lbs. The empty J10L was 16 lbs., just one off from the specified weight. I bet the extra pound came from copious brad and staple use, total four coats of paint, as well as way too much PL. In any case, according to my arm scale, the J10L with the Beta loaded into it is lighter than the empty regular J10 shell. I'm definitely a happy camper. Extra bonus- no air leaks when I tested it yesterday!