I'm a bit bummed as there is still no sign of these stupid Tee Nuts. This means the build has kinda slowed for now whilst I wait for them to arrive. Surely they must be delivered tomorrow right.....?
The video sounded pretty awesome so I figured the real thing must be much better like you say. It obviously wasn't just that video that convinced me, it was this forum along with the helpful community and a lot of happy reviews for both the AT and other speakers that persuaded me to take the plunge and make one. I found the build threads were pretty motivating too, its pretty awesome being able to follow someones project from start to finish.osse wrote:Also, I'm amazed that you chose to build the AT based on that video, as it gives very little justice to the design... the real thing will be much better than what was be caught on that camera!
I am starting to realise the amount of effort the larger cabs must take to get right. I was just lining up panel 2 against 1 and even on such a small panel/interaction warp can still be seen. I can definitely see why some of the larger and more complicated designs would be a nightmare with the 5 min stuff.88h88 wrote:For the record I've used that 5 minute PL before and it works. However it's a complete arse on bigger speakers such as tubas/titans as the panels are bigger and more of a faff to get into place
Anyways, despite the nuts not arriving I have been trying to keep busy and decided to mark up all the braces. I don't think I will cut them just yet as it's probably safer to confirm brace sizes once the panels are in place. I've heard these require a bit of fettling to fit anyways so there's no point cutting them too precisely.
I have also cut out the flanges for the access cover.
I'm planning on fitting these once panel 2, 3 and 4 are attached rather than at the end of the build as there will be a bit more room etc. Is there any reason to wait until the end to fit these?
I managed to test the amp as described above. I ran a 60hz sine wave into the amp with no speakers/sub attached and cranked the amp up to max vol (35). The output was 49/50V.ryan222h wrote:Check the voltage output of it when bridged at max output, without speakers hooked up
This was with the head unit sub settings at 0 though and as this can go up to +15 I expect the amp could have an even higher output.
I also checked the voltage when listening to general music with my current system and at the loudest setting (20 on HU) I was hitting about 19/20V.
I took the amp off the parcel shelf and happy days it had a label on it
Pretty self explanatory, I will be running it of just the one channel for now to be safe.ryan222h wrote:If its rated 4 ohms per channel then maybe stick with the one channel to the AT.
I also had a fiddle with the level dial.
At the min setting the voltmeter read 0.1v.
At the max it read 3.4V.
I'm still not convinced what this means. I was thinking it must be a 'gain' type dial but am I right in thinking it could be a variable X-over that is setting the cutoff lower than 100hz thus reducing the voltage? Surely if this was a gain dial then even at the minimum setting there would still be some output not 0.1v?
Finally some photos of inside my current sub and some comparison photos against a card mock up of the AT.
10" woofer; Kenwood KFC-W2500, Peak Power 360W.
Fs = 28hz
Vas(FT^3) = 2.67
Vas(m^3) = 74.19 (surely this can't be right as 74 meters cubed = 74000 liters)
Vas(L) = 75 (Using the FT^3 value)
QMs = 11.228
Qes = 0.337
Qts = 0.327
Pmax = 360
Re = 3.51
Xmax = 21.31
Sensitivity(db@1w/1m) = 91
Its a shame the Vas is so big, could probably have used it in the AT otherwise.
You can probably guess my next question. This will be surplus to requirements once the AT is finished, you recon I could use it for any other project like a TT?
Thanks for reading and apologies for deviating from purely 'build thread' content.
Love it! Hey, if it works, it works. This really brings a new meaning to "cardboard mock-up". This is great. 
I suppose, if you've got nothing better to do...