BillFitzmaurice.info

Here are a couple more random shots doing Bondo... now there's another job that won't be rushed! I think I had like 5 rounds before I was happy!

There must be some technique I'm missing because the screw heads were a real PITA to get smooth.

You'll see in the pic here the bondo doesn't always fill the hole nicely so you (well, I do anyway) need to have a couple of goes to fill the hole properly.

Bondo - beer - sand - bondo - beer - scrape - bondo - beer - sand.... I was practically drunk by the time I was done



That UPS truck you see reversing towards me brought my SLA speakers



First go with my new router! Next time I will leave the panels long so I can trim them before rounding. I think the end result will look better.



Finally ready for paint!

Bondo, Beer, Sand, repeat.

That would be a good kit for Leland to sell. Can of Bondo, couple sheets of sandpaper, and a 12er.

Nice job.

But it Hertz wrote:Seeing as we are talking about it... what does everyone else think about doing the braces this way? Is there a better way?

I like dado slots on all insides panels. With the router set up properly it hardly takes extra time and makes it easier to get all braces in their proper location (and stay there).

AntonZ wrote:I like dado slots on all insides panels. With the router set up properly it hardly takes extra time and makes it easier to get all braces in their proper location (and stay there).

I like that idea. I presume you have made some kind of template? Got any pictures?

Has anyone ever attempted dado slots for the main panels? Or is that just crazy talk?

But it Hertz wrote:

AntonZ wrote:I like dado slots on all insides panels. With the router set up properly it hardly takes extra time and makes it easier to get all braces in their proper location (and stay there).

I like that idea. I presume you have made some kind of template? Got any pictures?

Has anyone ever attempted dado slots for the main panels? Or is that just crazy talk?

Plenty have done that. Make the dado's about 1/8" deep, and just over the width of the thickness of your ply.
Some only dado one side (the first side), just in case there is some panel allignment error and the dado's on side 2 don't match up...

Grant Bunter wrote:Plenty have done that. Make the dado's about 1/8" deep, and just over the width of the thickness of your ply.
Some only dado one side (the first side), just in case there is some panel allignment error and the dado's on side 2 don't match up...

I can't imagine how you would mark 2 sides other than by hand... so error would be relatively easy to introduce.

So when you dado the first side, do you mark it out as usual and then go about making the dado cuts one at a time with some kind of home made template or straight edge?

Then just install the panels as usual? I presume this has the advantage of not using visible screws when you are done? I suppose it makes it a little easier aligning the panels.

The second side could just be stuck on with loads of PL and weights / clamps? Then you have a box with no holes to dress up as you like.

But it Hertz wrote:

AntonZ wrote:dado slots

I like that idea. I presume you have made some kind of template?

No template, I used the parallel jiggamathing that came with my router. Not sure if it would be long enough for the panels of a wide Titan or Tuba, but worked a treat on my T18 and AutoTuba. Get a few feet of threaded rod from the hardware store if you would need it to extent further.

Got any pictures?

Here's my AutoTuba halfway through construction. Dado to be seen in the lower left corner.

AntonZ wrote:Here's my AutoTuba halfway through construction. Dado to be seen in the lower left corner.

Oooohh like that! It was slightly different in my minds eye!

I like your scrap wood clamping method. I'm going to use that!

edit -double post

But it Hertz wrote:

Grant Bunter wrote:Plenty have done that. Make the dado's about 1/8" deep, and just over the width of the thickness of your ply.
Some only dado one side (the first side), just in case there is some panel allignment error and the dado's on side 2 don't match up...

I can't imagine how you would mark 2 sides other than by hand... so error would be relatively easy to introduce.

So when you dado the first side, do you mark it out as usual and then go about making the dado cuts one at a time with some kind of home made template or straight edge?

Then just install the panels as usual? I presume this has the advantage of not using visible screws when you are done? I suppose it makes it a little easier aligning the panels.

The second side could just be stuck on with loads of PL and weights / clamps? Then you have a box with no holes to dress up as you like.

Just need to use a straight edge for the approxiamate location to make the dado. What I have done is use drawer liner on which to lay the panel, and then a flat edge to run the router against.

You need to know the depth of your dado so you can add that amount to your panel width. If you dado both sides, add for that as well.
Unless you want to reduce the cab width.

If your dado's are the right width for your ply, it helps with dewarping. Glue it in the slot. Add screws if you wish, or not, or brad nail. Same as usual.
Very handy if you didn't want to use any fasteners for a natural finish...

Grant Bunter wrote:You need to know the depth of your dado so you can add that amount to your panel width. If you dado both sides, add for that as well..

If the brace is made a touch larger, or longer on the open end, then all one has to do is to just slide it in. IOW, not much accounting for dado depth at all since it will bottom out. Of course, you have to make certain that the panel remains square.

But it Hertz wrote:Seeing as we are talking about it... what does everyone else think about doing the braces this way? Is there a better way?

As an aside I was really surprised how much time the braces take to get right! They almost take longer than the main panels!!

I think pregluing the brace introduces a chance of messing up the whole panel by getting the position off.

When you do it per the plans the angle of the brace takes care of a lot. So long as you are parallel to your marked line you can cut on the line or off the line. You push the finished brace in a bit further or not as far as you might have intended.

But it Hertz wrote:I like your scrap wood clamping method. I'm going to use that!

Thanks. If you look carefully, you will see that one of the three scraps is not regular ply but rather a little wedge shaped piece of wood. For this particular bit of clamp work that worked out well since two pieces of ply was not enough, three was too much.

Even when bracing dado style, I still use fasteners (screws, nails, brads, whatever). The glue expands while it sets, which tends to push the brace back out of its' dado slot ever so slightly. Keep it right where you want it while the glue sets. And for the same reason of expanding glue: clamp it.

AntonZ wrote: I still use fasteners (screws, nails, brads, whatever). The glue expands while it sets, which tends to push the brace back out of its' dado slot ever so slightly. Keep it right where you want it while the glue sets. And for the same reason of expanding glue: clamp it.

Thanks!