BillFitzmaurice.info

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Thanks man! Idk I like the fact that I can say all that sound comes from a 30$ 8" driver. It the gt a 10 or 8?

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bassmonster wrote:The GTO804 is an eight. It's about double the price of the MCM, but takes more power. Still only a ~$65 eight inch driver though!

Its $50 with free ship on Amazon right now.

thats as cheap as the mcm, i'll have to go for that!

I want to hear how getting it installed with just the one access panel works. Its fatter around than the MCM. If you can get it in alright then Ill probably do what you did with just the one, larger, access.

Oh it was a breeze. That was with hex bolts though and I highly recommend them over phillips. With he mcm I could reach around both sides it was so nice. It may be more difficult with the gto but it should still be doable. Oh and my vote is tnuts over hnuts, installing them just takes a drill and a hammer. No need for epoxy.

Isn't the output of the jbl the same as the w8 740? Last I recall both have 12mm xmax

hnuts being hurricane?

The JBL is technically 11.5mm xmax versus the TBs 12mm. woo

DJ Higgumz wrote:Oh and my vote is tnuts over hnuts, installing them just takes a drill and a hammer. No need for epoxy.

I fear you'll come to rue the day you said that.

SirNickity wrote:

DJ Higgumz wrote:Oh and my vote is tnuts over hnuts, installing them just takes a drill and a hammer. No need for epoxy.

I fear you'll come to rue the day you said that.

Haha... I was lucky enough to escape any ill-consequence when using a hammer to install my first set of T-nuts. Just curious, all you experienced builders out there... what's wrong with the hammer method? Crooked T-nuts?

So using the bolt to pull the t-nut into place is the commonly accepted "best way" of doing it. Since epoxy is recommended to help prevent these things from spinning when installing the driver, what's to keep them from spinning before the epoxy has set when you're pulling the t-nuts into place? I wrestle with this conflict in my mind every time I use a bolt to pull the T-nut into place.

DJ Higgumz wrote:Oh and my vote is tnuts over hnuts, installing them just takes a drill and a hammer. No need for epoxy.

Really ?

http://www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum/v ... 14&t=18206

GirlyHandedDog wrote: Just curious, all you experienced builders out there... what's wrong with the hammer method? Crooked T-nuts?

That for starters, and also the hammering wobbles the tee nut as it goes in so that the bite of the prong is not perfect, ie sloppy.

GirlyHandedDog wrote:So using the bolt to pull the t-nut into place is the commonly accepted "best way" of doing it.

On softer ply yes, on real hard wood NO. There is a limit on how much tension the Tee Nut will take before irrepairable thread damage occurs. For harder ply use a press - I'll post a photo of my press tool when I get back home from a business trip.

GirlyHandedDog wrote:Since epoxy is recommended to help prevent these things from spinning when installing the driver, what's to keep them from spinning before the epoxy has set when you're pulling the t-nuts into place? I wrestle with this conflict in my mind every time I use a bolt to pull the T-nut into place.

Epoxy UNDER the tee nut before pulling/pressing into place - I think I mentioned that in my recent tee-nuts thread. When the Tee Nut is in place, scrape the excess epoxy over the tee nut face.

When I install them I drill a hole smaller than the tnut, and tap it in. This is with arauco. I love t nuts over hnuts, because it is nearly impossible for it to spin. H nuts don't have alot of mechanical advantage over spinning, it only relies on epoxy.

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Well, I use a hammer with H-nuts. Drill the hole, tap in with a hammer. You could probably do some damage if your alignment wasn't right before pounding it in, but using the bolt method you risk gluing the parts together. The industrious will always find a way to screw up.

I have no faith in T-nuts or H-nuts alone though. With epoxy, it seems pretty solid. Without the epoxy, you're just begging for chewed up plywood, or the nut coming right out altogether. It's not guaranteed to fail, but if you have to use a blind nut at all, your ability to fix it, if and when it does fail, is severly limited. Epoxy is cheap and easy to use, why skip it?

the gto along with installment stuff will be coming in the mail around wednesday. what is the voltage limit for the gto? it has similar xmax to the tb, so shouldn't it have the same limit?