BillFitzmaurice.info

And one other question.

I used my router to recut the access panel opening to straighten up the cut and expose a bit more of the flange. Then I cut a new access panel with a fairly tight fit, I think there's maybe 1/32" of play. Is the buildup from Duratex enough to cause the panel to stop fitting?

The hose can be any sort of reasonably flexible hose sized around 1/2 - 3/4".

On the access opening, you could put some tape to prevent the build-up. But perhaps you might want to trim the cover by an eighth all around.

el_ingeniero wrote:And one other question.

I used my router to recut the access panel opening to straighten up the cut and expose a bit more of the flange. Then I cut a new access panel with a fairly tight fit, I think there's maybe 1/32" of play. Is the buildup from Duratex enough to cause the panel to stop fitting?

I also cut my access covers pretty tight and when I painted them and the access cover flange area edges on 1 cab I had to trim a bit to get the access covers back on. That wasn't with Duratex but something like it.
I did paint the access covers separate to the rest of the cab.
Paint as per usual, let dry, and see. If you need to trim the access panel flange area edges or the access panels themselves with a sharpie to get the access panel back in, so be it..
Then stand back and have a look and see if it's visible...

Tom Smit wrote:The hose can be any sort of reasonably flexible hose sized around 1/2 - 3/4".

yeah, but where? I could get a stethoscope but it wouldn't be here before Thursday ...

Would a local hardware store have clear PVC tubing on rolls to cut to length? It's fairly common here.

Pure hardware stores are rare as hens teeth about here. I guess I will try the borg on the way home.

UPDATE: found 1/4" polyethylene tubing for $6 at the borg, will pick up on the way home.

Well, I went to solder my jacks up before hooking up the driver and buttoning up the chamber, and wouldn't you know that the box with all my DR hardware that had the #3 screws for the jacks is nowhere to be found.

I practically tore the place down looking for them and nothing.

Crud.

Double crud. All my DR hardware was in that box: jack plates, jacks, crossover parts, handles, corners and 2 straight arrays.

OUCH! Two missing arrays, that even hurts a person reading this thread. Hope you find them soon to reduce the stress level!

Sucks, dude. Check all the places you said "Nah, not there" -- it'll be in one of those.

My SLA Pro parts are probably repurposed as a stool in a USPS sorting room somewhere. 8 business days and tracking still says "accepted for pickup". I hate parcel post. If it weren't for the fact I'd have to finance any other delivery option...

So I am leak testing.

I have 30Hz sine wave at a titch less than 10V going to the first one. I ran the tube around the seams at the top and front and no "chuff" sounds. But when I stick my hand in the mouth, I can feel air movement all along along the seam between panels 6 and 7. Is that a leak? And if so, is there a way to fix it without tearing out the mouth braces?

Also, should I remove the chamber cover and check the seal around the driver?

Anyway, I'm sitting about 20 feet away from that thing and I can feel and hear that thing, and there's a tiny bit of rattling gong on. Way louder than free air well below the corner frequency of the horn. Awesome, I can't wait to run some some afrofunk through it.

I'm really confused. I cut a 3/4" wide strip of 1/8" BB and glued it to panel 7 with about 1/8" showing past panel 6 (and wasn't that a pain in the ass!), and laid more PL along the bottom edge of panel 6. There's just no way for an air leak to exist there, but I still feel moving air along that seam.

Edit: I just checked with the tube, there is no air leak anywhere along that seam. But I have a leak in the speaker gasket at the top near the access panel.

Is this just a very high SPL area in the speaker, and that's why I feel the air movement?

I can't say for sure, but, I think so? (pressure waves) Oh, and fix that gasket leak. But you know that already, haha.

There are for equidistant leaks each centered between a pair of screws. It's the gap between the gaskets. I have the screws cranked down hard to where they won't go any further, and I still hear the leakage.

It looks like I'll need to pull the driver and stick a dab of silicone in the space twixt the gaskets?