THT-LP (26" wide)

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

To everyone dealing with and still using warped wood:

Is it really worth the frustration and additional build time using crappy plywood? If you had it to do all over again, would you just pony up for the baltic birch and have an easier and ultimately better looking build?

Just wondering....

It takes me about twenty seconds to clamp a 2x2 guideboard to a piece of plywood to remove warp. Even with the most perfectly flat plywood you still need to properly jig the assembly to keep everything square. The point isn't the benefit of using perfectly flat wood to get a good result, the point is that you don't have to, which is important to those who can't find BB in their areas.

[Bruce Weldy]

To everyone dealing with and still using warped wood:

Is it really worth the frustration and additional build time using crappy plywood? If you had it to do all over again, would you just pony up for the baltic birch and have an easier and ultimately better looking build?

Just wondering....

It takes me about twenty seconds to clamp a 2x2 guideboard to a piece of plywood to remove warp. Even with the most perfectly flat plywood you still need to properly jig the assembly to keep everything square. The point isn't the benefit of using perfectly flat wood to get a good result, the point is that you don't have to, which is important to those who can't find BB in their areas.

I understand, but my point it that often it seems the decision to go with crappy plywood is based on price. My question is whether or not the time and frustration is worth the few bucks it would cost to buy good wood.

I think this is especially important for the budget builders who are trying to keep tool expense at a minimum. Using a circular saw vs. a table saw makes precision harder and more time consuming. Adding warped panels to the equation makes every small cutting mistake even harder to fit properly.

As you mentioned, there are ways to get around warped plywood.....I'm just wondering if the people that are dealing with it find that the pain is worth the savings of a few dollars.

There have been enough times in the past that I've been frustrated during a project because I tried to save a few bucks that I just don't scrimp on materials anymore. Life is much better that way.....

[Sydney]

... important to those who can't find BB in their areas.

The closest sources ( from my location ) have been 230 miles away.

[tomsza]

The AC ply I'm using isn't really that bad. Not the cheapest for sure. Half inch BB in my area is double the price at $50 for a 4'x8' sheet. I don't mind a little extra build time to save $75.

[Fastskiguy]

Tomsza, looing good there! My ply was warped as well and it took a lot of guideboards (and I stilll didn't use enough of them), patience, screws and glue to keep the tuba flat (I'm building the TTLS).

Joe, on both my TT and TTLS builds, to minimize glue getting spread all over on that first panel, I used the guide boards Bill recommends before securing the panel in place (I used brads). I also prefit my carpenter squares and clamps so I knew where they needed to go before I put the PL on. I removed the clamps, squares and panel, then put PL where it needed to go. The panel was put in place and bradded in. I removed the guide boards and cleaned them and the carpenter squares with mineral spirits before the PL set. Then mineral spirits also helped clean up any PL on the speaker panel.

NCDaveD

OK, makes perfect sense, thanks

[tomsza]

Let me ask a quick question....how did you get that first joint fastened lined up right and without getting glue all over the place?

I marked all my equal length screw points on the horizontal. Drilled four of them corresponding along the mating edges (one on each end and two close to the middle. With the horizontal piece on a table, and a chair propping up the vertical piece, I used my foot to under the vertical to raise it up to the horizontal, where I started the (2") screw into it (enough to hold it suspended). With the 4 screws holding the vertical up off the floor, there was about a half an inch gap between the two pieces. Squeeze the PL on the edge of the vertical and finish tightening the four screws. Mark and drill the rest of the screw points and get busy.

[Bruce Weldy]

Let me ask a quick question....how did you get that first joint fastened lined up right and without getting glue all over the place?

Use the W braces. Hang it off the table a couple of inches and screw from the bottom.

[Fastskiguy]

Oh yeah, I get it now! Thanks guys!

Joe

[subharmonic]

I use pine a lot due to price AND weight.

[Bruce Weldy]

Figured it was time for a baltic birch price update in the San Antonio area. I just got an email from Roddis Lumber where I buy my BB:

5x5 $26.70
4x8 $46.14

At that price for 5x5, I could never justify using anything else. For those of you that can't get it at that price.....

well, now you know why everybody wants to move to Texas.

[tomsza]

More progress.

[tomsza]

I bought the Bash plate amp for this thing and I'm thinking of adding a plywood panel to put in front of panel #10 and mounting the amp to that. Is there anything wrong with doing this? Like vibration damage?

[Fatso]

Let me ask a quick question....how did you get that first joint fastened lined up right and without getting glue all over the place? It looks like once you get going it's piece by piece and pretty straightforward-but that first ungainly joint....I'm starting my that-lp project soon. Thanks for the thread man

Joe

Ii you are talking about the very first joint, I stood mine up, put a piece of wax paper under the corner. It worked perfectly.

[subharmonic]

I bought the Bash plate amp for this thing and I'm thinking of adding a plywood panel to put in front of panel #10 and mounting the amp to that. Is there anything wrong with doing this? Like vibration damage?

The only thing that comes to my mind is potential ground loop issues unless plugging into the same circuit as the rest of your gear.

[fitzwaddle]

I bought the Bash plate amp for this thing and I'm thinking of adding a plywood panel to put in front of panel #10 and mounting the amp to that. Is there anything wrong with doing this? Like vibration damage?

You mean mount the amp in that long / sealed triangle next to the mouth (between 9, 10 and the side)?