BillFitzmaurice.info

kekani wrote:
Actually, my POS stapler/nailer is really bad with the accuracy of the staples; nailing being MUCH more accurate.

You only need for one staple leg to hit, so you've got twice the target using a staple. The main reason though, is that a staple won't tear through the sheath, whereas brads can.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:You only need for one staple leg to hit, so you've got twice the target using a staple. The main reason though, is that a staple won't tear through the sheath, whereas brads can.

Excellent point.

Truth be told, I was actually going to prebend the sheaths before installing, you know, like I do with the sides of instruments. One of those things that makes me feel comfortable doing the build. I'm not one to used stressed panels, so this is a first for me. Obviously, I didn't get around to bending anything, nor is there a need of course.

We'll see staples in action again in a little bit, when the throat sheaths go in. Not too sure when that will be, gotta go back to work on Monday, and I'm trying to lay a coat on the Wedges.

-Aaron

Jetted a little forward to the end - cut more parts for the back braces, and glued them in. This piece is actually pretty heavy, comparatively speaking. I was going to drill holes in the bracing, but, I figure this is projected to come out lighter than my current Jack as is, which is good, so I'm leaving it.


Putting my clamps to use, and doing all of the duct work at one time.


You can never have too many clamps. Both cabs are having the additional bracing being glued at the same time.


For the throat sheath, I rough cut it with my coping saw (bandsaw is broken), then thought I'd use my little Ibex convex finger plane. Hand tools can be very therapeutic in some cases. Once I planed it down to fit, I used it as a template to cut the other 3, but I didn't use a router, instead I used a Jewelers Saw and "cut off the line".

Damn, you've got some natty tools there

Harley wrote:Damn, you've got some natty tools there

I can only presume what natty means , but I think I got it. I'll just say they're "well used".

I may have mentioned it (maybe it was my first Jack 112?), but cam clamps are home made, and they exert more than enough pressure for instrument building. Besides, they cost MUCH less than buying them, sort of like building a cab I guess. And I get to say I use my own tools.
Note: it's one of those things if you've never used them, gotta try. So much faster, deeper, and softer on the wood faces than a Jorgensen without rubbers.

Aaron

kekani wrote: So much faster, deeper, and softer on the wood faces than a Jorgensen without rubbers.

Sounds like a swedish porn film.

Five9teen wrote:

kekani wrote: So much faster, deeper, and softer on the wood faces than a Jorgensen without rubbers.

Sounds like a swedish porn film.

LOL

Nicely done.

Ok, slowed down a little since the comic detour, not to mention finishing up the Wedgehorn 6's (which I need to update as well).

Anyway, the throat sheat braces are glued in, as well as the top hat is installed and sealed at this point. The holes for the top hat made by the templates worked well, and they're really tight to the point of not being able to easily slide in, and almost having to force them in. I used a fair amount of PL to seal up the rest of the joints.


The spacer that I used to mark and glue up the horn sheath braces makes another appearance to hold down the throat sheath during the glue up. Per Bill (and the plans), staples are used to secure the edge of the throat sheath. I still missed a few spots. I got the hang of it now (of course, not much staples needed from here (for this build, anyway. . .).


Aaron

kekani wrote:

Harley wrote:Damn, you've got some natty tools there

I can only presume what natty means , but I think I got it. I'll just say they're "well used".

I may have mentioned it (maybe it was my first Jack 112?), but cam clamps are home made, and they exert more than enough pressure for instrument building. Besides, they cost MUCH less than buying them, sort of like building a cab I guess. And I get to say I use my own tools.
Note: it's one of those things if you've never used them, gotta try. So much faster, deeper, and softer on the wood faces than a Jorgensen without rubbers.

Aaron

Really intrigued, I am, about those clamps! So I did a little searching and found this video (14 minutes long) that explains quite nicely and clearly how to make those cam clamps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6hDK-7LDvo

Tom Smit wrote:...and found this video (14 minutes long) that explains quite nicely and clearly how to make those cam clamps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6hDK-7LDvo

Thanks for posting.

YW

That was a good video. I did mine a little different, more along the lines of the Stew Mac offering. A bandsaw slice for the moveable piece is all that I did, as opposed to the table saw, which I think is a little too big, and, no cork pads for me; I'm too lazy. I like the use of nails instead of rods.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Clamp ... lamps.html

If I'm not mistaken, I got the template from the MIMF, which has recently changed over, and I think the library archives are gone, for now. Either way, this one is very similar:
http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/050304/050304.pdf
Or if that doesn't work:
http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/050304/index.htm

Since we're talking about cam clamps (& since I've finished the Wedgehorn 6's, the Jack 112L continues) here you go:


Actually, after I set up the first cab, I realized that I can glue up all 4 back flanges at one time. I did go back and finished up the first one as well. I used leftover 1/2" from the Jack 112(k) build so I didn't have to glue up 2 pieces of 1/4" for the flanges.


By the way, I'm trying to wrap my head around how I'm going to attach the frame for the grill cloth (same material that I installed on the Jack and the Wedgehorn 6's). The horn sheath curving out to meet the sides has got me stumped at the moment. The plan is to go with the cloth; I like the look, and the cost, and the weight. Anyone got any ideas?

Aaron

Build flanges and install them?

Use a backer board along the sides to keep square and flush. Clamp the flange to the backer board (was paper in between) and then clamp the backer board to the box side. Rinse and repeat for the top/bottom.

This thread is freakin' sweet! That looks like a fun build.

jswingchun wrote:This thread is freakin' sweet! That looks like a fun build.

Thanks. At the rate I'm going, I'll have enough for a 4 stack like you, but I'll never use them all in one stack - two will always be for PA. Of course you know, I'm gonna try and see what happens when I put one of these on top of my current Jack 112 (I'll turn off the tweets on that one). I know they're a little different, but I'm afraid of what I'll hear. . .

It is actually a fun build, IF you got all the parts cut and ready to go. That being done, it'll go together quick. I'm just taking my time right now because I still need to offload some speakers to fund these drivers, or sell another `ukulele (which is on the bench. . .).

Got the foam ball glued on.


Just did a quick coat of Duratex on the inside, for a number of reasons. I'm thinking of installing a screen for the driver (don't have to tape off the screen to paint). I'll have someplace to grab and move the cab around when I'm finishing the outside, if I need to. I wanted to see how smooth I needed to get the bondo (obviously, not as smooth as with auto paint). I wanted to see the "final" just in case I don't put a grill cloth. Yes, I'll need to sand again for the tweeter supports, but that'll be no problem. This was worth it to see, for me.