BillFitzmaurice.info

I'm sorry for your loss.
Work is a great antidote.

Sorry to hear that Dave.

My heartfelt condolences to you and your family.

Thank you all for your kind thoughts. They DO make a difference.

Before I got that phone call, my friend and I were trying to measure out where I wanted to put the new TTLS. We had to move that old ProScan CRT (37" I believe) and I was using my tape measure to see if we had room. It looked way too close for my comfort level, so we mocked up the TTLS with some 2X2's and carboard and I have to admit, it is a LOT bigger than I saw in my mind's eye.

We moved things around and I hope this placement won't be too bad. It is out from the wall the correct amount, but kind of crowded at the mouth with the angled wall. I hope it is OK. What do you all think?

The wall is a 45 degree angle and the 18" side is facing forward (towards the rear of the tower speaker).

NCDaveD

How does it look? It looks like you may have to learn to love the new 'floor mounting' of those pictures once you get this finished!

NCDaveD wrote:I have to admit, it is a LOT bigger than I saw in my mind's eye.

I always love that moment. It has happened to me on each build but the second T39.

Not much done so far, but hope to get back at it very soon. Did manage to find drawing via google on right angle clamp.

NCDaveD

Need to make me some of those, thanks for the reminder. What is the 2" hole for?

http://stonehavenlife.com/make-a-right- ... mping-jig/

The 2” hole makes it easy to get a quick-grip or spring clamp into position to hold things temporarily while you square it all up and clamp it properly for fastening

Take into account the magnet next to an older TV like that.

AntonZ wrote:Need to make me some of those, thanks for the reminder. What is the 2" hole for?

The hole in mine are used for hanging 'em on the wall......

Have a BDay party to go to tonight, but had time to get a couple of panels on and glue up some scrap to make the right angle clamps. The ply is warping on me and I am having to use all the alignment boards in the instructions to get them straight enough for bradding. Panel 1 was bowed enough that I had to use screws into panel 2 to pull it tight after gluing.

After panel 2 was in, I measured for panel 3 and came up 1/2" longer than the cut sheet, and sure enough, I had cut panel 2 to the joints shown on page 6 of the instructions (illustration labeled "Panel assembly order") and this does not agree with the rest of the instructions or the sketchup drawing. So my advice is to NOT USE THIS ILLUSTRATION FOR MARKING THE JOINTS!!!! Go through the rest of the instructions and the sketchup drawing to mark the correct joint orientation.

Once I double checked this with sketchup, I just measured the length I needed and cut panel 3 to length. Again I had to use the alignment boards to get the panels flat and used PL and brads to set it in place. Panel 4 was cut and installed before I ran out of time.

Slow work, but slowly getting there. I am using my finger and at times a discarded junk mail "credit card" to smooth the PL adhesive in the joints. I am also using gloves to keep the PL off my hands.

NCDaveD.

Why are you smoothing the PL? It's extra, messy work. Let the PL cure and then remove the bead if need be.

Tom Smit wrote:Why are you smoothing the PL? It's extra, messy work. Let the PL cure and then remove the bead if need be.

Tom, I do this on the interior joints to make an even radius of PL along the joint length. It allows me to push PL into any questionable area and only takes a few seconds. No real mess with gloved hands and a handy rag with mineral spirits. For the exterior joints, I'll let it cure and remove it with a chisel as I did on TT#1.

Agreed it's totally unnecessary.

Hopefully will get a couple more panels done later this AM.

NCDaveD

EDIT!! NOTE THAT THIS PANEL IS MEASURED INCORRECTLY!! THE 6" DIMENSION SHOULD BE MEASURED FROM THE LONG EDGE. NOTE I MEASURED IT FROM THE SHORT SIDE

Next panel up is the speaker panel. Following the directions, the panel was cut to length, and the center point located. Several concentric rings were made with a compass to show the speaker gasket inner and outer diameters and the bolt circle for the speaker mounting bolt holes. The speaker was placed on the panel, centered on the concentric rings, and the bolt holes marked. The bolt holes were drilled and the center ring cut out at a 45 degree angle. Then following the speaker gasket ID, using a jig saw, I cut straight at a 90 degree angle. With a little sanding I ended up with what is in the pictures.

A bit of 15 minute epoxy was mixed up and the t-nuts epoxied into place.

I was worried that the rubber surround was to close, so I mounted the speaker and pushed 12 volts through it with a brief excursion to 14 volts. The rubber surround did not touch, although the entire wall of my garage was vibrating from the speaker panel being clamped to my work bench that touched that wall.

Thanks for taking a look!

NCDaveD