BillFitzmaurice.info

quick question.... I went into Ace and Loewes today looking for 3/16 bolts and they looked at me like I was crazy.... they said that had only 1/4 bolts or 5/32 bolts.... would 1/4 or 10/32 (5/16) work or is it specifically only 3/16 bolts

wormraper wrote:quick question.... I went into Ace and Loewes today looking for 3/16 bolts and they looked at me like I was crazy.... they said that had only 1/4 bolts or 5/32 bolts.... would 1/4 or 10/32 (5/16) work or is it specifically only 3/16 bolts

www.speakerhardware.com

And whoever you dealt with are idiots. 3/16" is one of the most common sizes, far more so than 5/32". And 3/16" and 10/32 are the same thing.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

wormraper wrote:quick question.... I went into Ace and Loewes today looking for 3/16 bolts and they looked at me like I was crazy.... they said that had only 1/4 bolts or 5/32 bolts.... would 1/4 or 10/32 (5/16) work or is it specifically only 3/16 bolts

http://www.speakerhardware.com

And whoever you dealt with are idiots. 3/16" is one of the most common sizes, far more so than 5/32". And 3/16" and 10/32 are the same thing.

lol, he must have been even more an idiot than me... lol (they had a little chart will all the sizes and 3/16 wasn't on there so he said he'd never heard of them).... so 10/32 is the same thing??? then that's easy... they had a whole tray of those (although I would have thought it was the same as 5/16 but maybe my math was wrong... anywhoooooooooo. I guess I'll be going back and hopefully getting someone smarter....

also are T-nuts still recommended?? I'm getting a ton of differing recommendations from AVSforum members who've built theirs all saying don't touch them with a 10 foot pole... they slip etc.... either recomending speaker "brackets" or using these with a chunk of ply underneath the drill hole as a bracing
http://www.lowes.com/pd_169762-2191-253 ... t%3Danchor

1-1/2" deep thread wood screws - Recex/Robertson like these:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 966&ucst=t

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 182&ucst=t

Some people don't recommend them on heavier drivers but I guarantee you they will never come out - particularly in baltic. I've been running 18" reflex subs for years loaded with Seleniums that weigh about 30 lbs held in by deep thread screws and never a problem

Greg Plouvier wrote:1-1/2" deep thread wood screws - Recex/Robertson like these:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 966&ucst=t

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 182&ucst=t

Some people don't recommend them on heavier drivers but I guarantee you they will never come out - particularly in baltic. I've been running 18" reflex subs for years loaded with Seleniums that weigh about 30 lbs held in by deep thread screws and never a problem

I don't recommend the combination of heavy drivers and 1/2" baffles, and that's what THT is. TNuts are a pain, but they work. You just have to remember not to force them, if you do they will spin out.

Oh yeah - forgot the THT is just the baffle without the extra 1/2" of spacer.

when your talking about the t nuts spinning out do they actually come loose from the plywood and not grab anymore? I have only had issues with T nuts in mdf as they didn't grab properly and popped out if you put pressure on them, but once you spun them and they caught the wood again they grabbed well.

When I put my T nuts in I hammer them flush on the wood and they were not coming out unless I put a bolt in the other side and hit it with a mallet to pop it out.

And 3/16" and 10/32 are the same thing.

umm......

loudsubz wrote:when your talking about the t nuts spinning out do they actually come loose from the plywood and not grab anymore?.

They spin out when the bolt is inserted off-axis and jams, at which point most people use a wrench to try and force it. When they do it gets cross-threaded and you can neither drive it in or out. A wrench should only be used when the bolt has first been hand threaded almost all the way in.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

loudsubz wrote:when your talking about the t nuts spinning out do they actually come loose from the plywood and not grab anymore?.

They spin out when the bolt is inserted off-axis and jams, at which point most people use a wrench to try and force it. When they do it gets cross-threaded and you can neither drive it in or out. A wrench should only be used when the bolt has first been hand threaded almost all the way in.

A little wiggle of the driver usually allows the bolts to get seated properly and go in. Like you mention a ratchet should not be used untill the bolts are all the way into the T nut.

Dave Non-Zero wrote:

And 3/16" and 10/32 are the same thing.

umm......

Over here we still use good King Edward II standards and not those of that Johnny-Come-Lately, Napoleon.

#10 bolt is 3/16 in diameter. The second number is threads per inch. 10-24, 10-32.

Aaaaaah I get it. Another way for imperial to confuse. I'll put it on my list....

There're three tricks to successful tee-nutting

1) Buy the more expensive but larger tee nuts with 4 claws,

2) Epoxy the back of them, and

3) Run a thread tap through them prior to trial fitting the driver and putting bolts in them.

Harley wrote:There're three tricks to successful tee-nutting

1) Buy the more expensive but larger tee nuts with 4 claws,

2) Epoxy the back of them, and

3) Run a thread tap through them prior to trial fitting the driver and putting bolts in them.

1.... will do

2... plan on doing that

3.... ummmm. sorry to sound stupid what what does "run a thread tap through them" mean