Don't forget 1/4" jacks along w/Neutric-they saved my a

[fender3x]

I bought 12 over these after reading this thread. They arrived today and if I had any inkling of the teeny tiny pins on the back I wouldn't have even bothered.

Somewhere there is a thread where I expressed a very similar shock. List members patiently explained to me that a connection could me reliably made, and how to do it. I have installed a bunch of them now...and all the connections seem pretty solid. You may want to give it a shot before you send them back... If a ham handed, know nothing newbie like me can do it I bet you can too.

[gdougherty]

I use the standard 4-pole speakon connectors, and pick up a big pack of quick-connects from Home Despot. On the - terminals you crimp the quick connect lightly so it fits super tight on the tab. On the + terminal, the raised plastic is too narrow to fit a standard quick connect. Solution is to crimp it from the sides so it forms a narrower V. The rolled parts of the quick connect then fit tight against the jack tab and it will slide in between the raised plastic on the back of the jack. If you want you can crimp the connections slightly once you have everything attached but I generally have to push pretty hard to get the quick connects onto the tabs. If I need to redo something or add another wire, I just snip off the quick connect and have another go, no worries about heat damage to the terminals.

I also skip soldering on piezos, favoring a longer section of bare wire to pass through the center hole and wind twice around the terminals. I have to work to get it off, so I'm pretty sure it's not coming off on its own. Easy to undo in the field if you have to, no soldering required, no heat damage.

[vlad335]

I use the standard 4-pole speakon connectors, and pick up a big pack of quick-connects from Home Despot. On the - terminals you crimp the quick connect lightly so it fits super tight on the tab. On the + terminal, the raised plastic is too narrow to fit a standard quick connect. Solution is to crimp it from the sides so it forms a narrower V. The rolled parts of the quick connect then fit tight against the jack tab and it will slide in between the raised plastic on the back of the jack. If you want you can crimp the connections slightly once you have everything attached but I generally have to push pretty hard to get the quick connects onto the tabs. If I need to redo something or add another wire, I just snip off the quick connect and have another go, no worries about heat damage to the terminals.

I also skip soldering on piezos, favoring a longer section of bare wire to pass through the center hole and wind twice around the terminals. I have to work to get it off, so I'm pretty sure it's not coming off on its own. Easy to undo in the field if you have to, no soldering required, no heat damage.

Thanks for the post... You gave me an idea to try! They make crimp on connectors that attach to pins. I may just look into this and give it a whirl. I could even solder them on. I hate to send these connectors back and wait again.

I have everything now... Drivers, crossover parts, corners, handles, and 3 almost completed cabs and I want to fire these up this weekend.

gdougherty. Do you mind if I pm you questions from time to time?

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I wouldn't use crimp connectors with the PC board Speakons, not enough pin to grab. Solder it and then use hot melt glue to seal the back of the jack and add strain relief to the connection. I've never had one fail. Just follow the instructions further up the thread, don't try to solder a 14 ga or 12 ga wire direct, strip the end down to the equivalent of about 18ga.

[vlad335]

Found this on another site about this connector.

Tip: stick a phillips head screwdriver through the middle (where you stick the 1/4" plug. Then, holding the connector in your hand, push the screwdriver down on the table, popping the back cover off the connector. This makes it much easier to solder speaker wire onto the contacts. It is also advisable to drop some hot glue on the contacts to prevent shorting and provide some strain relief.

Got other more pressing problems now though. Came home from work this morning and found my basement knee deep in water. In all the years I have lived here, never a drop of water till now. This is where I have my little shop set up and I have some power tools and not to mention a chest freezer, hot water tank, Washer, dryer, furnace probally totally ruined.

My homeowners insurance is saying tough luck. Great!

[Jayebob]

$1.74 and I got them next day standard shipping. The post about knocking the back out with a phillips screwdriver makes them easy to solder, but no longer airtight. This is not an issue on the back plate of a DR cabinet.


http://www.westlake-electronic.com/stor ... /index.htm