Brad Nailers

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.
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DaveK
Posts: 735
Joined: Tue Dec 05, 2006 9:51 pm
Location: Sacramento CA

Re: Brad Nailers

#16 Post by DaveK »

+1 on the pneumatic. I started with a Craftsman electric. It was hard to get consistent depth, when it went too deep it left a big divot to fill, then it burned out after 4 or 5 builds.

67baja
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Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 12:10 am
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: Brad Nailers

#17 Post by 67baja »

I have a Dewalt 18v XRP cordless nail gun and I love it!!! Very nice for repairing wooden drawers, doors, installing trim and molding, etc. BUT, I haven't used it on a speaker build (yet). It is quite a bit more ca$hola than a pneumatic, but you can't beat it if you are working out of a truck all day.
Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011Z ... 16DX86RB6P

edit - because I can't spell right the frist...er... first time.
2 THTs, 2 TLAH, SLA curved, 1 8-AT, 1 AT JBL 1002D, 4 Otop12s, Jack 12, TT with Eminence 10", 2 SLAs, 1 T30 slim, 2 T30s (2-10" each), SLA Pros, TrT.

bzb
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Joined: Mon Oct 05, 2009 4:16 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: Brad Nailers

#18 Post by bzb »

A tip, which I'll repost in the Tips and Tricks when I get some time to photograph:

Brads will bend a certain way depending on how they're clipped. If you're getting nails that are bending through the face, simply turn the gun 90 degrees.

I want to say my Porter Cable brads bend up/down slightly, so I run the gun perpendicular along the edge I'm shooting.
Bobby Shively
Purveyor of fine aged hip hop
Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V

Built:
T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
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Harley
Posts: 5758
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:45 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder

Re: Brad Nailers

#19 Post by Harley »

That would actually be a nice name to have wouldn't it

Hi, I'm Brad Nailer
:mrgreen:
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm

Re: Brad Nailers

#20 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Harley wrote:That would actually be a nice name to have wouldn't it

Hi, I'm Brad Nailer
:mrgreen:
Yeah, if you're a porn star. :loler:

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David Homer
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Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 1:57 am
Location: Hickory Corners, MI
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Re: Brad Nailers

#21 Post by David Homer »

I'm retiring my box of deck screws..... Up until now, I've always built clamp it up, drill the hole set the screw... good but not real efficient. A short while back I made the decision to go into business building bass cabs, and since it was fairly inexpensive, I picked up one of those Harbor Freight pneumatic brad nailers to try.

Working on my first customers' 2-10 custom wedge, this thing is darn near perfect. Huge timesaver, and the parts hold together very well. Didn't even have to make adjustments on the gun. Can easily frame up a cab in a matter of hours, instead of days..

Come to think of it, the deck screws will still come in handy.. rip fences and router jigs..

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Brad Nailers

#22 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

David Homer wrote:
Working on my first customers' 2-10 custom wedge, this thing is darn near perfect. Huge timesaver.
Brad nailers are the way to go, but most people don't own either them or the required air compressor, and don't build enough cabs to make it a worthwhile investment. But with Father's Day around the corner... :clap:

Billy Joe
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 6:30 pm
Location: Arizona

Re: Brad Nailers

#23 Post by Billy Joe »

Anyone use crown staples. I ask because i have a Delta crown stapler.
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XF212
T18
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WB
Posts: 1745
Joined: Sat May 13, 2006 3:06 pm
Location: Ontario. Yours To Discover

Re: Brad Nailers

#24 Post by WB »

Billy Joe wrote:Anyone use crown staples. I ask because i have a Delta crown stapler.
I have both and prefer to use the stapler 90% of the time, more clamping power. The nailer has it's uses.
Tomorrow I'm going to stop procrastinating - WB

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Brad Nailers

#25 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Billy Joe wrote:Anyone use crown staples. I ask because i have a Delta crown stapler.
Crown staples are larger, heavier, and on cab edges you can't plow right through them with a roundover router bit. I do use them on interior joints when using 1/4" or 1/8" sheathing. Brads don't have as much holding power, but they really don't need it, all they do is hold the joints in position while the adhesive sets. If you need serious pulling power screws rule.

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LiefStevens
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Location: Asheville, NC - Authorized Builder
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Re: Brad Nailers

#26 Post by LiefStevens »

I have used screws on my builds so far but as I have a compressor and brad nailer I think I'll try it on my next build. What do you guys do for the edges you are going to round over? Do the brads get it the way?

BTW if anyone is looking for a good cheap compressor check out http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-8-gal ... 67501.html its one of the better finds at Harbor Freight. I bought mine on sale for $70 and it replaced my second dead porter cable compressor. Been going strong with regular usage for 2 years.

Bruce Weldy
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Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: Brad Nailers

#27 Post by Bruce Weldy »

Just keep 'em back from the edge. A router goes over the 18 ga. with no problem without hurting the bit.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

Ken Lustgarten
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Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:36 am
Location: Bradley, WV Authorized Builder

Re: Brad Nailers

#28 Post by Ken Lustgarten »

Do not even consider an electric nailer. They have no power and burn out in short order. Go with a pneumatic nailer. Also make sure you get a compressor that takes oil. There are many oil-less compressors out there now that are only a few dollars cheaper then an oil filled one. The oil-less have a much shorter lifespan and make a lot more noise.

On my latest builds 2 X DR250 and 6 X DR200 I used a brad nailer for every part. It is one of the best ways to speed up construction because the part can be handled and worked with right away. Brads are much faster and easier then using screws. If you hit a brad while routing with a carbide bit it will cut right through with no problem, wouldn't want to do that with screws (unless brass or aluminum). I can not think of a better way to build a cab.

CoronaOperator
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Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada

Re: Brad Nailers

#29 Post by CoronaOperator »

CraigsAudio wrote:Do not even consider an electric nailer. They have no power and burn out in short order. Go with a pneumatic nailer. Also make sure you get a compressor that takes oil. There are many oil-less compressors out there now that are only a few dollars cheaper then an oil filled one. The oil-less have a much shorter lifespan and make a lot more noise.
+1 to everything except a few details are left out. Oil-less compressors are quite a bit lighter than oil filled ones. Might be a concern depending on if you have to lift them up stairs and such, they sure are loud though. Second, oil filled compressors CANNOT be used to pump draught beer through your draught tap!! Pick your priorities wisely :D
Built:
17" width 10" driver Autotuba
2 x 29" width dual Lab12 Tuba60
6 x DR250 2510/asd1001
In progress:
2 x DR250 2510/asd1001
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Harley
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Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder

Re: Brad Nailers

#30 Post by Harley »

CraigsAudio wrote:If you hit a brad while routing with a carbide bit it will cut right through with no problem.
18g brads yes

16g brads NO :cowboy:
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

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