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Re: OTop 12 Build
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 9:06 am
by tdogg
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Dave Non-Zero wrote:in 4hours i'd probably get the baffle and spacer ring done.

In a four hour period I spend one cumulative hour trying to find the pencil I put down thirty seconds before.
Memory is the second thing to go.
I forget what the first is.
i have the same problem, so i buy large quantities of pencils and scatter them throughout my shop and tool boxes. i do the same with guitar picks at the practice space.
Re: OTop 12 Build
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 9:24 am
by SeisTres
tdogg wrote:
i have the same problem, so i buy large quantities of pencils and scatter them throughout my shop and tool boxes. i do the same with guitar picks at the practice space.
This is what I do, too! Good thing I only went through 12 dozens of picks in a whole year

Re: OTop 12 Build
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 11:39 am
by BoostFab
doncolga wrote:Ok...this is my official start to my Otop 12's. Just need one more sheet of BB and my two kits. How many hours would you all guestimate this would likely take? I have no bookings next weekend, so I'd really like to knock out the pair then. Should that be doable over a Friday-Sunday?
after an hour of cutting, i'm ready to assemble. and it's my first time with the ot12.
you should knock out two ot12 in a weekend
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:In a four hour period I spend one cumulative hour trying to find the pencil I put down thirty seconds before.
Memory is the second thing to go.
I forget what the first is.
Didn't you tuck the pencil on your right ear! LOL
Re: OTop 12 Build
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 2:13 pm
by David Sample
Re: OTop 12 Build
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 2:29 pm
by doncolga
There's a sticky on subwoofer placement...maybe pencil placement strategies will be included in the future plans.
Re: OTop 12 Build
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 4:23 pm
by AntonZ
BoostFab wrote:Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:In a four hour period I spend one cumulative hour trying to find the pencil I put down thirty seconds before.
Memory is the second thing to go.
I forget what the first is.
Didn't you tuck the pencil on your right ear! LOL
That's what I do (pencil is just about the only thing that I don't need to search for in the workshop). Learned to do this from my father. I already see my kids (5 and 7yo) do the same occasionally. Could become a rather annoying problem when working with PU glue though. Then you'd know where the pencil is, it's always within reach but it won't detach
I can see myself moving my head over sheets of ply to draw cut lines, that would be real silly

Re: OTop 12 Build
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 2:46 pm
by jswingchun

$1.99 at Home Depot (obviously) never lose your pencil.
Re: OTop 12 Build (now Jack 112)
Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 10:47 am
by doncolga
OK...change of plans. I'm very likely going to be changing this OT12 build to a set of Jack 112's. I do need a set of great full rangers for smaller jobs, then being able to use them with subs for large jobs, I'm sure they'll do great. Once I do build the OT12's, the Jacks should make great monitors. In a way, the build looks a little easier too. Comments or suggestions on that line of thought?
Thanks!
Donny
Re: OTop 12 Build (Now Jack 12 Build)
Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 12:39 am
by mems
Sounds good to me. That s how I am going. 3012Ho's and for this gig coming up a single T30 3012lf. Soon to be two T30's of the same. I can' wait to hear em Saturday when it all set up and ready to go. Should sound amazing.
Re: OTop 12 Build (Now Jack 12 Build)
Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 12:50 pm
by doncolga
mems wrote:Sounds good to me. That s how I am going. 3012Ho's and for this gig coming up a single T30 3012lf. Soon to be two T30's of the same. I can' wait to hear em Saturday when it all set up and ready to go. Should sound amazing.
Very cool. I'm picking up BB as I write this and hope to find some time this weekend to work on the boxes, along with a TON of other stuff I have to do. My drivers and other parts will be in on Monday and later next week, so with any luck I'll be able to use them next Saturday...just have to see how it goes. Right now the Jacks just make more sense as they can do double duty as tops and full range for little jobs, then they'll be monitors when I do have Otops.
Re: OTop 12 Build (Now Jack 12 Build)
Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 7:05 pm
by CoronaOperator
doncolga wrote:
There's a sticky on subwoofer placement...maybe pencil placement strategies will be included in the future plans.
http://www.staples.com/Dixon-3-1-2-Golf ... plesSearch
I just checked and I have 7 boxes of these strategically placed in various areas at my work. Rip the top of the box off and if you precut some paper about 3" x 4", you can stick a stack of paper it the back of the box too.
I couldn't live without them. lol
Re: OTop 12 Build (Now Jack 12 Build)
Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:36 pm
by doncolga
This is a question about the Jack baffle, driver ring and T-nuts. Maybe I'm missing something in the plans, but shouldn't the driver ring be placed on the baffle right after the baffle is cut out, along with the driver holes and T-nuts placed? I'm a little concerned about placement of the driver holes and T-nuts as it looks like the T-nuts could be at join lines with the ducts and horn braces, depending on how you place the holes...am I just overlooking something?
Thanks!
Donny
Re: OTop 12 Build (Now Jack 12 Build)
Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 4:57 pm
by Bill Fitzmaurice
doncolga wrote:..am I just overlooking something?
The instruction to use screws?

Re: OTop 12 Build (Now Jack 12 Build)
Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 8:03 pm
by doncolga
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:doncolga wrote:..am I just overlooking something?
The instruction to use screws?

So no t-nuts to bolt on the driver?...just screw them in?
Re: OTop 12 Build (Now Jack 12 Build)
Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 8:54 pm
by mems
doncolga wrote:Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:doncolga wrote:..am I just overlooking something?
The instruction to use screws?

So no t-nuts to bolt on the driver?...just screw them in?
That's correct. I made that mistake as well. Just screw them in using locking washers that are small enough to ensure the screw head wont go through them.