What should i do with 4x 15 inch +2x 12inch drivers!!!

[Sydney]

" is it possible i could just use a little sealant and/or a new gasket and/or a dual drilled pattern??

You could, BUT after looking up those companies offerings, IMVHO it would be a waste of time.
I built a T24 using the least expensive driver recommended at that time, but wanting to have the flexibility to swap in a better driver in the future. So I made an adapter plate.
But again I used a driver that had a history in that design, not a savaged driver from a company that has absolutely no presence in the Professional Sound market.

Syd

[klampykixx]

i think im still stuck but, coz im leaning towards the tuba 30 being the design i pick, however, i dont think im going to be able to fit my 15 incher into it... i think its just physically too small and so would require either a compromise, and go the titan for the 15inch factor(which id rather not do) or just wait until i can afford the right driver. which i cant afford to do either and my system as it was, is just not worthy of what it needs to achieve, and so would never actually get used. and therefore never earn money as it is/was.

[klampykixx]

is the tuba 36 any good?? why was it taken off the list? because im thinking it would have been perfect for what i want. being somewhat compact, having the right frequency response, and the right amount of throw and being able to fit my current speakers inside it. can i still get the plans for it if i want them? coz then later on i could get the eminence driver that it was meant for when i can afford it.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

being able to fit my current speakers inside

That is the last reason to settle on a cab design,which should be decided on the basis of the response and output that you need and the cab size that you can live with. Then you use drivers appropriate for it. If you happen to have drivers on hand with compatible specs all well and good. You don't have driver specs so there's no way to anticipate the result. Finding out what those specs are should be your first priority. If you can't find them don't build a new cab for them, do as others have already advised, sell them in the cabs you have to finance your build using the right drivers.

[LelandCrooks]

Bottom line. You won't be happy, you won't like the cabs, and it won't work. Period. They will NOT be better in Bill's boxes unless they meet the spec. They'll be worse than the cabs they came from. Or they'll blow the first time you put any power to them at all.

[Greg Plouvier]

Bottom line. You won't be happy, you won't like the cabs, and it won't work. Period. They will NOT be better in Bill's boxes unless they meet the spec. They'll be worse than the cabs they came from. Or they'll blow the first time you put any power to them at all.

Yeah - What he said

[netwerks]

Figure out what BFM speakers you need, put your old speakers back together, sell them, take proceeds from sale and buy the recommneded drivers for Bills plans, get the recomended plywood, build them, be happy and never look back.

[Gauss]

Hi Brendan, welcome to the forum. As you can tell, there's a lot of knowledge here, especially concerning these horns and the right and wrong way about it.

There are only a few cabinets here than work with a wide range of speakers. Most of them require specific speakers in order to match the horn. With full-range 15" speakers, you may be able to make Omnitop 15 speakers. For subs, especially intended for 45-60 hz, the Titan 39 is king. Since you're concerned with cost, you can build them with BP102 speakers at about $70 per driver. The 3012LF driver costs more (about $160), but you end up with almost double the output. Also, you have the shipping to add. My T39 ended up costing about $400 in materials, but would have been less if I had ordered the speakerhardware kit.

[klampykixx]

ok, that was all really usefull info so thankyou. so based on me not currently knowing my speaker specs, what im understanding is that the omnitops would be a better proposition to put my no names in until i can afford to build+buy the subwoofers(tuba30) and then after that replace my no names with eminence in the OTs?
therefore using my djtech+weconics as full range as they were, rather than risking them sounding completely ghey and possibly dieing in a "tuned for something else" box. i know everyone is saying to sell my current cabs but i just cant afford to do that. unfortunately i live on a really really tight budget. no surplus to put aside for anything like this. so im currently spending my tax refund. hence, $350.00. once i get them out, and people want to use them theyll get used more and earn themselves the cash to be upgraded.

thanks again for the responses.

[klampykixx]

my next question is: if i can find the T/S for both my drivers, can the tubas be modified to suit the new parameters? or does it not work like that and it will just become clear as to wether or not it will work at all in the horn?

*edit* scrap that idea...

iv been thinking.... i want to do this properly, i always did. but iv been looking, anyone know where i can buy the appropriate eminence drivers in australia so that im not paying more in freight than what the woofer is actually worth??

[Gregory East]

Wecome to the land of S.O.L

You might try somewhere in Asia. They still do economy sea mail from Singapore and HongKong. Eminence manufacture in China now btw.

[klampykixx]

ok, its all good. iv found some and the wife/boss has given me the go ahead to increase the budget to allow for a pair of
$175 DeltaLF12 with $35 freight from Sth Aus via a local music store. (Handy)

so now i need something to fill the gap of 100hz>1500hz.
what cab would one suggest to compliment a pair of tuba 30 horns?

[Gregory East]

If you can build the DR250 then you get a big bang for your driver buck.

Some people have built 0top15 with their random old drivers and been happy. I forgot about the filters though, the price of those bits adds up and I doubt they would be compatible to throw across to another build if OT15 failed.

[klampykixx]

can the dr250 take a 15?

[Doug Hart]

can the dr250 take a 15?

None of the DR's use a 15