BillFitzmaurice.info

http://www.djtoys.com/xti-1000-crown-pr ... l?ref=base

$322

I could have sworn I saw another ad on ebay for $319 shipped, but I can't find it now.

Hmm.... I've found the xti 2000 for 430, free shipping, putting it at about 90 over the lowest xti 1000. As of right now we have 360ish to spend.

That wattage looks mighty attractive. Anyone have any thoughts they want to share?

Bigger is better. Easier to turn down from max than turning up from max.

Not to mention amps designed to run 2000W will run 1000W for years on end with no problems.

Well yeah, bigger is always better...

Somehow I think I've messed my math up: assume we are just going to use the numbers specified.

the xti 1000 can supply 275w at 8 ohms (1 driver) per channel
if I wire another driver it drops the impedence to 4 ohms, meaning the xti can supply 500w per channel.

How does this effect the overall output level? If you split the power (wattage) between 2 drivers, it puts ~ 250, per driver at 4 ohms vs the 275w to 1 driver. Voltage is constant, but the amplifier will draw more current from the wall I believe. It just seems like wattage is coming from nowhere at this point?

I'm somewhat confused.

Most amplifiers cannot produce a stable voltage across all loads. Better amps will provide close to it, but not all can. That "loss" of 50W is due to that factor. There's a 2ohm rating as well for about 700W with 1% THD starred which implies the 4 and 8 ohm ratings are at lower distortion values. Best case is keep the amp at 4ohm or lower and run the amp with plenty of headroom so it doesn't burn up the amp section any quicker than necessary. I like the idea of running amps capable of at least 1.5x RMS if not 2x RMS at low distortion for this very reason.

Yep, I've figured it out. Sorry about the obvious noob questions, and horrific topic staying ability.

Looks like we may be leaning towards the 2000... hrm. Its a tough decision, because that means its going to take a little bit longer for us to get the cash together. Seeing as we finished the first tuba 30 enclosure yesterday, we reallllly want to have an amp when the driver gets here later this week from SpeakerHardware. Its quite the nice coffee table right now.

The 2000 is much more efficient. Look at http://www.crownaudio.com/pdf/amps/139921.pdf . This alone is a good reason to go with the 2000.

Not sure what Northernsound.com would be able to do for you. Check them out. Give a call on pricing if you don't want to spend a $1 buying a membership.

well.... we pulled the trigger on the 2000 actually. Since its my first amp ever (and first decent set of sound equipment in general, other than my blackface fender super reverb) I'm sure my roommates and I will not be disappointing regardless of how it performs.

man... what a messy thread. As a fan of forums I hate to do this, but I also hate to make a new thread for simple questions

I'm messing around with the system architect right now, mapping out the xover points and stuff. I know I'm suppossed to hipass at 35 with a 24 db slope. I assume the lowpass is at 100, with like a 12 db slope? What else do I need here, and what should i put on the tops?

hehe. I'm just a little overexcited, but I really want to figure this stuff out.

sine143 wrote:man... what a messy thread. As a fan of forums I hate to do this, but I also hate to make a new thread for simple questions

I'm messing around with the system architect right now, mapping out the xover points and stuff. I know I'm suppossed to hipass at 35 with a 24 db slope.

As steep as you've got, if 48db slope is available that would be even better.

sine143 wrote:I assume the lowpass is at 100, with like a 12 db slope?

Steeper, use 24 or 48 db. Start at 100 Hz, play a bit with the frequency while listening to the results. Set for what's best. With your eyes closed you should not be able to point where the sub is. If you hear voices in the sub, or can hear where it is, the xo frequency is too high.

sine143 wrote:What else do I need here, and what should i put on the tops?

High pass on the tops same freq as low pass on the subs. So start at 100hz again. If your subs have a rising response, you may get a little too much around 100hz. In that case you want to set the low pass on the subs slightly lower than the highpass on the tops (e.g. subs up to 95, tops starting at 105 or 110). But start at same freq, if you feel the response at that freq is a bit too much, then you can start tearing them apart a bit until it sounds right.

mmmkay. any idea on what slope I should set? Any thing else I'm going to need to be aware of? Thanks for the early response (530am here man).


EDIT

for future reference, I was referring to the tops, not the subs. He did a good job of explaining that.

sine143 wrote:mmmkay. any idea on what slope I should set?

??
AntonZ answered that question...

sine143 wrote:Thanks for the early response (530am here man).

I'm most probably on a different continent, as it takes an emergency to get me out of bed at 5:30am, and it'd better be a serious one