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Here is a better pic.

Charles Jenkinson wrote:Here is a better pic.

Building invisible cabs, are we?

I know.

I was trying to post off my phone, with a 5 month old on my knee, trying to eat my phone flip cover, the other 2 making a racket, and i was getting hotter and hotter with a wool jumper on.

Charles Jenkinson wrote: And now, because i have alternated the handing of the piezos (so I didn't have to cut through the screws), and i cannot rotate the elements (because they're glued in), it will be easier to see parts of the wiring in the back of the array. The wire Leland supplied is a sort of grey/clear 2 core - I'm wondering if a black sheath single core might blend in better, or whether to put some grill cloth round the back of the array and screw it into the back of the array support rails, just to screen off the back of the array, when viewed obliquely.

Can you find some of this stuff and slide it over top of the harness? http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http ... Q&dur=1843

Hey Charles,
Have you built the supports for the array yet?
If so, just place the array in position and have a look from a few angles. It may not be as bad as you think.
If you've wired it up already, you don't want to un solder your wiring to add a sheath.
Maybe a few squirts from a flat black rattle tin????

Thank you for the considerations Tom and Grant. I haven't soldered them up yet, nor are the mount rails in situ. The only issue is the tabs on the element backs. It's not a big deal, it ideally just needs something to neaten it up. I think I'll just get some black wire and that will do.

Charles Jenkinson wrote:Thank you for the considerations Tom and Grant. I haven't soldered them up yet, nor are the mount rails in situ. The only issue is the tabs on the element backs. It's not a big deal, it ideally just needs something to neaten it up. I think I'll just get some black wire and that will do.

I think you are the only one who will notice. I brought the J10L out to the beach this weekend and no one even knew that it was a loudspeaker. If some wires are visible from a steep side angle probably not many will notice, and those that do won't think any different.

I spent all yesterday writing and refining a to-do list, for finishing the jacks. It makes interesting reading and flushes out lots of required detail, that's best thought about when there is time available to plan - if anyones really interested i can post it.

Since last posting I have done some rounding over on the corners with the router, and trimmed the face edges back on the plastic corners, so they look a bit better and are more functional for fitting the cabinet back, particularly where 6mm thick ply is used. I thought I would try and recess the jack plate last night, taking 2mm out so it sits in and hides the gasket. Easier said than done. I free handed some bits, the corners mainly. It may look tidier when painted. This is the good one.

Here's a question: Can I cable tie the crossover components down to the board rather than gluing them? It just seems more appropriate to me.

Yes.

Charles Jenkinson wrote: Here's a question: Can I cable tie the crossover components down to the board rather than gluing them? It just seems more appropriate to me.

Do both. If they aren't glued they can shift about, potentially causing component leads to come loose.

I've installed some slightly heavy speaker cable (1.5mm square) for wiring through to the arrays from inside the cab, before testing if i can solder it adequately. The 18awg Leland supplied is much easier to solder to the arrays. There are two issues: the 1.5mmsq is hot glued into the cab in some 3mm ply conduit ducts that run back through the port to get the cables neatly into the back of the cab, so I'm stuck with it, or at least have to join it to something lighter gauge. Secondly, my current soldering iron (old and cheap) is only 25 watt and the tip is crap. I know I need a higher power iron, but do I need temperature controlled one, or just a bog standard higher power? The third issue is: do I need to swap back down from the 1.5mmsq to the 18awg for soldering to the mini dsp array switch terminals? At the moment the heavy stuff could potentially run thru to the switch, but if i am going to be frying the switch to get a connection that wont do. Very grateful for any pointers. Thank you.
Charles

What I would do since the 1.5 cable is already stuck there is either:

a) Ignore it and run lighter cable to the array alongside the existing conduit
b) Make it into a beneficial mod by terminating the heavy cable at the end of the ply conduit with either some solder lug or screw connectors, then running the lighter cable, in turn, to the array from those terminals - that would make removal of the array much easier if maintenance was required.

Tweeters wired. Array wires installed in a duct and bare crossover boards in place. LP on right side, HP on left. Coils will lie flat on the boards.

Am just having a quiet first half hour of watching the speakers bed in, late in the evening. You know, 30Hz, 8 to 10 volts, only to find a pop up interrupts with "Congratulations!, you have been selected...."

Nearly frightened the bloody life out of me.

Edit: The drivers are in the cabs due to doing leak test at same time, if that makes sense.

Charles Jenkinson wrote:Am just having a quiet first half hour of watching the speakers bed in, late in the evening. You know, 30Hz, 8 to 10 volts, only to find a pop up interrupts with "Congratulations!, you have been selected...."

Nearly frightened the bloody life out of me.

Edit: The drivers are in the cabs due to doing leak test at same time, if that makes sense.

Haha, one time I was breaking in a couple of deltalite 2512's and the old mac I was using, suddenly crashed in the middle of the night which resulted in the mac sending a ~1000-2000hz sinustone to the amp instead of 30hz - I nearly shat my self in my sleep, jumped up with adrenaline flying out my ears trying to figure out what was happening!

IT WAS LOUD!!!