BillFitzmaurice.info

Bruce Weldy wrote:

escapemcp wrote: Probably looking at Deltalite for now, and I may upgrade to 3012HO later,

Baffle design and phase plug in the OT12 are different for these two drivers. No upgrade path there. So, if you want the 3012HO - better do it now.

escapemcp wrote:

Probably will stick with basslite, even though I feel like I am being robbed of £25 on each one! I will be running them off a iNuke3000DSP amp, which puts out about 325W @ 8 ohms, so the HO's would end up underpowered, although not a bad thing, what with power compression. The Deltalite's though would give the amp a bit of headroom, rather than the speaker, and the amps cost more so I'll try to give them an easier ride! Also means I don't have to find £400 when I want to build another pair.

OK, now (re)investigating processing options. Have been looking at the Driverack PX, as it comes with measurement mic and RTA (a FAR better deal than the Berry combo of DCX/DEQ AND measurement mic ), but was wondering how much the following things mattered:

1) only 24/dB LR slopes
2) only 3 band PEQ on the main outs <-thought this may be worse than 1)

Probably going to stick with the iNuke 3000DSP, which has everything I need on it's DSP, bar the RTA. As it is only £70 extra for the DSP model, I figure even if I do get a Driverack in the future, then I can just stop using the DSP section (although I love the idea of the limiter being IN the amp=no way for eedjuts to bypass it).

Oh and I have been editing (Audacity) my fave tunes to listen on my new T30 - left channel is HPF at 100Hz/24LR, and right channel is LP 35-100Hz/48LR and hook up the T30 and my sony speaker accordingly. Sounds very nice (although I need a bit more gain on the sub channel for next time). Have only managed to get 5V through the sub before the 'rents start complaining Puts a big fat smile on my face though

Bill has said in the past something like:

"use the highest value steepest slope available".

So if 24LR is the highest value steepest slope you have, no probs

escapemcp wrote:, but was wondering how much the following things mattered:

1) only 24/dB LR slopes
2) only 3 band PEQ on the main outs <-thought this may be worse than 1)

1) no problem
2) true.... but that's on top of 31 band graphic EQ on the input side. I only use the graphic...don't even engage the PEQs.

Bruce Weldy wrote:

escapemcp wrote:, but was wondering how much the following things mattered:

1) only 24/dB LR slopes
2) only 3 band PEQ on the main outs <-thought this may be worse than 1)

1) no problem
2) true.... but that's on top of 31 band graphic EQ on the input side. I only use the graphic...don't even engage the PEQs.

OK, many thanks for that. I'm going with NU3000DSP to get me going, then I'll add to that a PEQ2496 for RTA. 2nd system (T60s and DR250s) will use a driverack, and for the 3rd system (Titan + something - probably more DR250s ) I am probably going to use the T.rack 2/4 http://www.thomann.de/gb/the_tracks_ds_24.htm as this system won't be used that often. I am reluctant to buy all the same, as I am a fiddler and love to play around with new toys.

The Tuba 30 system (2xT30+2xOT12) has to be built by the 25th of May, as I am planning a party that weekend (to celebrate my new rig - any old excuse for a party )

I have just been giving it some stick (well, 5V!) and damn it's nice. Haven't installed the final 2 braces yet in the mouth of the sub yet, so the big unsupported piece on the bottom (24"x30") is vibrating a little I won't install the braces until I have managed to duratex the mouth of the sub - light grey in the mouth and black exterior btw. I'll stick some photos up shortly.

Here you go:

Taken on rubbish Samsung phone GT-S5280

whoa, don't go buying that stuff unless you are certain that you want tha5 funky blue. Most people get black though.

Higher power test with better camera... you can hear the sub on this!

A bit annoyed this weekend. Was supposed to have a router delivered on Friday which didn't happen, and also supposed to get more wood but the shop closed early So there was only one thing for it.... get smashed, but, you've guessed it, didn't even manage that (and I'm usually really good at that ). I therefore just did a few odd jobs (not the Bond villain )

Still umm-ing and arr-ing over building DR250's to go with my Tubas, especially after the Deltalite's price hike recently. What would be the recommended 10" driver to go into the DR250s please?

I went out and got smashed for you, don't worry.

The recommended woofer is the Eminence Deltalite II 2510

118 quid each at lean business.

88h88 wrote:I went out and got smashed for you, don't worry.

Thanks 88, much appreciated

88h88 wrote:The recommended woofer is the Eminence Deltalite II 2510
118 quid each at lean business.

Thanks 88, much appreciated

I have found Radiator Pine @ £26 a sheet and also Latvian Birch @ the same price, although it is more of a PITA to get. Which should I go for or doesn't it matter. Note: I will be Duratexing them.

+ves/-ves please

Many thanks.

escapemcp wrote:I have found Radiator Pine @ £26 a sheet and also Latvian Birch @ the same price, although it is more of a PITA to get. Which should I go for or doesn't it matter. Note: I will be Duratexing them.

+ves/-ves please

Many thanks.

I would take the Latvian (Baltic) birch and suffer a bit of PITA for the premium stuff. No point in taking the best alternative if you can get the right product for the same amount of money. £26 is insanely cheap... just make sure its not thin veneer stuff.

escapemcp wrote:I have found Radiator Pine @ £26 a sheet and also Latvian Birch @ the same price, although it is more of a PITA to get. Which should I go for or doesn't it matter. Note: I will be Duratexing them.

+ves/-ves please

Many thanks.

I wouldn't go with radiator pine. It gets insanely hot.
Radiata pine is OK, on the other hand.