2 x Jack 112 Lite

[biggerrigger]

No it will not but small dabs of hot melt will not only hold it in place but also stiffen the array quite a bit.
If you use small amounts of hot melt you will not be able to see it once it is in place.
Remember to work quickly or your hot melt will cool and not adhere very well to the painted surface.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

5/8" OD rigid PVC pipe is proving elusive.

It's the most common size here, being 1/2" ID supply pipe. I'd imagine it 12mm ID on your side of the pond.

[AntonZ]

Not sure if it is readily available where you live, Charles, but over here we have flexible copper tubing with a PE sheath/surrounding. We called it "wicu". I had some left over bits from doing plumbing in the house. The copper slides right out, the PE is the perfect size for the diffuser. I used the same glue that worked for building the arrays. Extra bonus: these diffusers keep a Jack Lite cab lighter than a birch dowel, too (unless you forget to take the copper out). The outside diameter was just about perfect, not entirely sure what diameter copper tubing was inside.



Painted after gluing. Not the exact right color, but they sit behind a grill so this was good enough for me.

[Rune Bivrin]

I use regular 16mm OD electricians PVC pipes. Cheap as dirt. But I guess that's a classical example of something that's market specific. In Sweden that's been the standard wall electrical conduit for ages.

[Charles Jenkinson]

Wow fellas, most generous responses. I was going to edit my post to say I have other adhesives (PL obviously, silicone 2 part, epoxy 2 part, and Bondtech 1" plastic repair which is the dogs dangly bits), but was a little late in doing so. I may go for aluminium tube 1.6mm wall, which is the slightly more tech solution and use the bondtech.

I can happily report that this evening has been a heady mix of MEK fumes, pear cider, cheap Aldi rum, table saw action, and progress, definitely not all in that order, and alcohol only used as a stimulant, initially.

This photo shows the second set of piezos I cut on the table saw - a separate saw set up to the next photo (the first set of piezos assembled), but within 1mm overall length, before gluing. Y'll do for me.

[Charles Jenkinson]

My own V16. Come on!

All the tweeters are numbered, and patterned according to loudness, working from the middle of the array outwards (loud to quieter) and appropriate left/right mixing of spl output aswell, for the pair of arrays I'm making. Perhaps more of an academic exercise than a necessity I would imagine. For the record, after the epiphany of the spl meter, I only had 1 out of 38 piezos which was out of phase, and its response was the weakest of the bunch. There was roughly a 6dB spread between quietest and loudest.

[miked]

Great work on the arrays. Don't the glue-up jigs make it (relatively) easy? I couldn't imagine trying to glue these up freehand.

[Charles Jenkinson]

Yes they do. I stuck each side all together, flat, before cutting the mitres. Probably better uniformity all round. My 3&3/8 mitre cut measure ended up a slight curve, so I trimmed the high points off at the ends and shimmed both sides up to the apex of the jig with cornflake box card, to bring the gap at the mitre back together.

[Charles Jenkinson]

And finally, the second cab 1" back framing installed.

The bracing and clamps are only to pull the panels straight while the PL goes off.

Bon Nuit!

....there's a thought. Where are all the French BF'ers?

[Charles Jenkinson]

How's this? 15mm diameter pine dowel. Not quite round, slightly under 5/8". But i picked a straight one. 900mm long weighs 85grams.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Where are all the French BF'ers?

Farting in our general direction?

[Charles Jenkinson]

LOL!

[Charles Jenkinson]

So, is the dowel ok?

...I hate being stuck between excellence and perfection, by anyone's standards.

[biggerrigger]

Looks good to me. A trick I used to paint mine was to take a 16" piece of 2x4 and drill a hole at an angle slightly larger than the dowel. Think of an incense burner. Ruff cut your dowel a few inches longer than needed then paint and trim to final length before installation. This will allow you to paint the entire dowel with out it rolling around the shop or swinging from a string while you try to paint it. I painted my melded arrays and dowels separately to avoid getting too much paint on either and causing a run in the paint.

[Charles Jenkinson]

Here is a painted array. Not a great picture, but its a dark grey.

And now, because i have alternated the handing of the piezos (so I didn't have to cut through the screws), and i cannot rotate the elements (because they're glued in), it will be easier to see parts of the wiring in the back of the array. The wire Leland supplied is a sort of grey/clear 2 core - I'm wondering if a black sheath single core might blend in better, or whether to put some grill cloth round the back of the array and screw it into the back of the array support rails, just to screen off the back of the array, when viewed obliquely.

The wire to power the array - it comes through the side mouth sheath, right in the top corner? Do people seal the hole it comes through, or leave it loose so they can pull/push surplus through to get array off/on?