BillFitzmaurice.info

I guess this is what you were refering to, there is graph about freq and impedance change compared with caps types.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners ... ser-error/

I just realised i can use the standard rubber feets as spacers for my metal grill which will be 1/2" spacing between each holes. Anyone doing this? loll

"I just realised i can use the standard rubber feets as spacers for my metal grill which will be 1/2" spacing between each holes. Anyone doing this? loll"

Yes, I did this on mine! It works perfectly. Many manufacturers use it!

Askia wrote: ↑Thu Mar 29, 2018 4:23 am "I just realised i can use the standard rubber feets as spacers for my metal grill which will be 1/2" spacing between each holes. Anyone doing this? loll"

Yes, I did this on mine! It works perfectly. Many manufacturers use it!

haha ok cool

Hole in baffle to cut is really 11.06" for the 3012lf?
I did that and it's like if the speaker can move inside the hole, there's about a bit less than 1/4" free space and the screws dont have a lot of wood to bite on... Where i failed? lol..

http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Kappalite_3012LF.pdf

Electric Wisdom wrote: ↑Fri Mar 30, 2018 3:39 pm Where i failed?

That would be by not following Rule #1, in this case: Put the cab face up, insert the woofer into the baffle. Insert a nail or punch through the mounting holes, dimple on the baffle where to drive pilot holes for driver mounting screws. Use #8 or #10 screws, long enough to reach through the driver frame plus 1 to 1¼ inch. Remove and store the driver. Drill the pilots.
Cut eight (sixteen for a 212) one inch high by two inch long screw retention blocks. These install on the back of the baffle, behind each screw hole. Screw them in place while the adhesive sets with the driver mounting screws, driven through the pilots.

Doing it this way you'd have seen that the mounting holes were closer to the edge of the hole than you'd want them to be, but you would just move the retaining blocks as required to give enough meat for the screws to bite into.

0.06" is just under 1/16th of an inch.
Did you cut the hole to just under 11 1/16 inches?

You don't want the driver to be tight in the baffle cutout.

If you've cut it correctly, you should have about 11/16 of an inch (all around) to mount the driver.

Electric Wisdom wrote: ↑Fri Mar 30, 2018 3:39 pm Hole in baffle to cut is really 11.06" for the 3012lf?
I did that and it's like if the speaker can move inside the hole, there's about a bit less than 1/4" free space and the screws dont have a lot of wood to bite on... Where i failed? lol..

http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Kappalite_3012LF.pdf

I just cut a baffle hole for an eminence driver that called for the same-sized hole. It fit perfectly. Sure you cut it the right size? Did you cut it 11.6 instead of 11.06? That would cause pretty much what you described.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Fri Mar 30, 2018 4:04 pm

Electric Wisdom wrote: ↑Fri Mar 30, 2018 3:39 pm Where i failed?

That would be by not following Rule #1, in this case: Put the cab face up, insert the woofer into the baffle. Insert a nail or punch through the mounting holes, dimple on the baffle where to drive pilot holes for driver mounting screws. Use #8 or #10 screws, long enough to reach through the driver frame plus 1 to 1¼ inch. Remove and store the driver. Drill the pilots.
Cut eight (sixteen for a 212) one inch high by two inch long screw retention blocks. These install on the back of the baffle, behind each screw hole. Screw them in place while the adhesive sets with the driver mounting screws, driven through the pilots.

Doing it this way you'd have seen that the mounting holes were closer to the edge of the hole than you'd want them to be, but you would just move the retaining blocks as required to give enough meat for the screws to bite into.

Thanks but hm, i don't understand, i'm french maybe i miss something but... you say put the cab face up and insert woofer in the baffle... i have to cut it for that... this is where i failed, hmmmm yeah second cab i will follow more carefully but i was wondering if it would impact the sound? I use #8 screws and i just checked it seems not so bad, good thing i use the little wood pieces under, without that i would call it a total fail, but i might try it like that, apparently i cutted the hole at 11 1/8" wide

Some pictures, the dot is the center for the screw, and both lines are what i can have of free space when i move the woofer around in the hole.
There's a shy 0.25" between the screw placement and the hole edge i cutted. :S

Electric Wisdom wrote: ↑Sat Mar 31, 2018 4:35 pm apparently i cutted the hole at 11 1/8" wide

That's only 1/16 bigger in diameter than it should be....meaning only a 1/32 at any point.....that's not a problem at all.

Electric Wisdom wrote: ↑Sat Mar 31, 2018 4:35 pm Thanks but hm, i don't understand, i'm french maybe i miss something but... you say put the cab face up and insert woofer in the baffle... i have to cut it for that... this is where i failed

Your mistake was to clamp the blocks in place for gluing instead of screwing them per the plans, which would have revealed any need to have the blocks overhang the hole a bit to give adequate material for screw retention.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Sat Mar 31, 2018 5:40 pm

Electric Wisdom wrote: ↑Sat Mar 31, 2018 4:35 pm Thanks but hm, i don't understand, i'm french maybe i miss something but... you say put the cab face up and insert woofer in the baffle... i have to cut it for that... this is where i failed

Your mistake was to clamp the blocks in place for gluing instead of screwing them per the plans, which would have revealed any need to have the blocks overhang the hole a bit to give adequate material for screw retention.

yes ok thanks but is'nt that a bit weird to have the blocks not aligned with the speaker hole?
Anyways hehe thanks, the second cab will be much better haha

There's good deal on sonopan thick insonorisation material sheets is it ok? Better? Worse? In the build doc it says Damping but not really much info on what type to use.

https://www.rona.ca/fr/panneau-acoustique

or something more like on the pictures,

https://www.rona.ca/en/insulation---saf ... insulation


Since this is high excursion woofers, i bet there is more air movement than usual, so... if i use some insulation material that leave dust in the air it will spit it out everywhere right? Or i'm paranoid again? hahahah

Those are products to put in the walls of buildings. Read Rule #1 again.