BillFitzmaurice.info

Thanks guys. I am slightly tempted to leave two cross tunnels in the cabs or make mesh covered frames to fix in them (because the paintwork couldn't be so great in those parts now. Here's a thought: paint a brighter colour in there, and put some battery powered sound responsive led lights in, mesh covered. Mega cheese.

Anyway, here's the first coat of tuff cab on one cab, got woke at 4:30 this morning and could sense i wasnt going back to sleep, so got an hour in. I can almost hear them celebration bells ringing, but nothing below 100Hz unfortunately.

They are coming along great Charles. If your gasket tape is not too thick then yes definitely you can run a continuous piece and overlap it, preferably by a screw hole, it will give it a little extra force to squish it. Love the idea of cross tunnels, led lights wired into the subs power source is what we do, no batteries needed, some plexy covers and your good. As some one said before its always good to finish a cab before you play it, I totally agree, because when you fire it up before its finished (painted etc) it more than likely will stay that way for a while

pumpsfast

Hey Charles,
Enjoyed the vid, thanks!

I really really like the speakon positioning.

Keep at it, you've nearly got it beat...

Progress is ...just that....progress.

I like where the Speakons are.

Looking great, Charles. Glad you've got back on the case. Look forward to hearing them sometime.

John

For seal testing, I would down your access panel into three pieces. Stick a couple of mounting blocks of ply into the two end slots behind the reducer panels on each side. Mount your main access panel and leak test, once everything is good, screw the two mini panels at either side of the main panel. They just need to look neat as they are purely cosmetic,

Chris_Allen wrote:For seal testing, I would down your access panel into three pieces. Stick a couple of mounting blocks of ply into the two end slots behind the reducer panels on each side. Mount your main access panel and leak test, once everything is good, screw the two mini panels at either side of the main panel. They just need to look neat as they are purely cosmetic,

Nah, that's no fun! Leave them tunnels open, hit them with some bright white paint, and stick some blinking lights in there!

Oxonjohn wrote:Looking great, Charles. Glad you've got back on the case. Look forward to hearing them sometime.

Hopefully on Sunday, with some good sine waves. I'll hold off on combining with a J12 for time sake. ...I wasn't too impressed with response when leak testing with access covers off, though it got interesting at around 80Hz, possibly due to standing wave in the garage space - i gather there's no comparison to having the access covers on.

Thanks for suggestions. I'll see what the leak situation is potentially like with whole access panels first. If its whistling through I'll assume it is on the blind joints too, and cut the panels down. Plan?

DJPhatman wrote: Nah, that's no fun! Leave them tunnels open, hit them with some bright white paint, and stick some blinking lights in there!

If you could bend a piece of metal and cut it and tune to a resonant frequency e.g. 70Hz, attach a piezo as a trigger, you could have a frequency driven lighting system without the need of a controller.

Chris_Allen wrote:

DJPhatman wrote: Nah, that's no fun! Leave them tunnels open, hit them with some bright white paint, and stick some blinking lights in there!

If you could bend a piece of metal and cut it and tune to a resonant frequency e.g. 70Hz, attach a piezo as a trigger, you could have a frequency driven lighting system without the need of a controller.

Just for clarification, is the piezo mounted to the metal?, does the piezo, vibrating through the air then become a microphone and output a voltage?

Good news. Got most of paint on both cabs, and just fitted driver to first, and covers. No leaks.

10mm Gasket strip bent round corners and stayed flat no problem.

Close up picture of speakons shows dust at back corner of mouth. I wonder how much more is going to come out. I hope not much. I vacuumed out the driver compartment and what I could reach.

Gone boring, not chopping access hatches down. Just to add feet on side and bottom now, and paint and fit out the V plate - but at the moment it's got about an inch of bend in it across the diagonal side. May take it in the house and hide it behind the settee for a week and see if it straightens.

Went up to 35volts on sine wave. It was exciting at 70Hz-ish, lots of stuff vibrating, but I don't think its representative of real 'musical' bass, so I'm interested to see what happens when crossed over and some proper music played, etc.

Thanks for the votes of encouragement. Next project lined up already - XF212.

Got a few guys to show tomorrow, so not gonna finish the other one tonight, then they can see the internals.

Nearly there!

Can't wait to see and hear them. As the response of the T30 doesn't start dropping off till 30Hz, are you thinking of trying your 5 string bass through this in combination with your Jacks (low B = ~30Hz)? A bit over the top for a gig, but got to be worth a try just for fun!!!

See you tomorrow.

Tom Smit wrote:Just for clarification, is the piezo mounted to the metal?, does the piezo, vibrating through the air then become a microphone and output a voltage?

The piezo would be mounted to the metal.

I don't think the piezo would become a microphone in a traditional sense as I don't think the movement of air would be sufficient, I think a standing wave in a solid material it was attached to would be fine. The only problem would be that you would have to make the material resonating sufficiently thick that other frequency wouldn't get picked up.

Purely conceptual but easy to test. All you need are some piezos, some metal, a sub, a saw, a signal generator, an amp and a multimeter.

Charles Jenkinson wrote:Went up to 35volts on sine wave. It was exciting at 70Hz-ish, lots of stuff vibrating, but I don't think its representative of real 'musical' bass,

It's possible you may have a leak. I would have thought 35V @70Hz on a Lab12 in your garage would be unbearable.