BillFitzmaurice.info

My little J10 with a Beta10 and flat piezo array worked for a wedding reception for about 100 people. My friends getting hitched didn't want to spend money on a DJ and knew I had the rig. I just sat it on the ground and angled it up. Hooked it up to an amp, little mixer board, and an iPod. It was hardly a pro thing, and wasn't optimal, but it worked and everyone had a good time. Oh, and it was loud enough.

ncgrove wrote:My little J10 with a Beta10 and flat piezo array worked for a wedding reception for about 100 people. My friends getting hitched didn't want to spend money on a DJ and knew I had the rig. I just sat it on the ground and angled it up. Hooked it up to an amp, little mixer board, and an iPod. It was hardly a pro thing, and wasn't optimal, but it worked and everyone had a good time. Oh, and it was loud enough.

Yeah, but wedding receptions and free parties are 2 different animals - same species, admittedly - but the free party animal wants it LOUD!!
OK, this weekend forgot to get many pics, but when I take the cab apart, I will take some shots of inside. Anyway, this weekend, I managed to get everything in place. Discovered that one of my joins was waay off (about 3 degrees) so had to go back and alter. Also I managed to cut the hole for my speakon dish in the wrong place I had the dish round the wrong way (180 degrees) so that I ended up cutting a hole in the bottom of the speaker in the wrong place. I had been trying to keep all fixtures and fittings in the 'unpressurised' sections of the cab, so that I didn't have to seal any of the actual horn, but one (far too eager) cut later, and that idea was blown out of the water. Picked up a random offcut from the floor and it fitted the hole PERFECTLY, so 2 mins and a bit of PL later, things were back on track.
I also found getting excess PL off the access hatch was a bit of an arse when the Lab12 reducer panels are installed, but have almost managed to sort it out.
Earlier on in the weekend was the first time I had even dared put the 2nd side on the cab to see if the holes lined up, and to my complete amazement, every hole hit it's respective panel with no need for any alteration or re-drilling. A very pleasant surprise! I was also thinking when I did this, that you could use the 2nd side from panels 3 or 4 onward, in order to ensure correct alignment. Y/N?
Have weatherproof sealed the side on to the rest of the cab before leak testing, which will happen tonight... can't wait (but have to )

escapemcp wrote: Have weatherproof sealed the side on to the rest of the cab before leak testing, which will happen tonight... can't wait

???
Am I understanding this correctly?


Aren't you going to PL it into place?

Tom Smit wrote:

escapemcp wrote: Have weatherproof sealed the side on to the rest of the cab before leak testing, which will happen tonight... can't wait

???
Am I understanding this correctly?

Aren't you going to PL it into place?

If I PL it up and THEN find a leak, how do I fix it? I never understood that bit of the plans with rubber hoses and the like (e.g. how do you get the rubber hose anywhere past the 1st corner?!) I therefore decided to weatherproof seal it first, check for leaks and then if it's all good, remove the tape and seal it up proper with lashings of PL. If it isn't good, then I repair the leak(s ) and re-test.

escapemcp wrote:how do you get the rubber hose anywhere past the 1st corner?!

You need a compliant piece of hose, and the following info:

escapemcp wrote: If I PL it up and THEN find a leak, how do I fix it? I never understood that bit of the plans with rubber hoses and the like (e.g. how do you get the rubber hose anywhere past the 1st corner?!) I therefore decided to weatherproof seal it first, check for leaks and then if it's all good, remove the tape and seal it up proper with lashings of PL. If it isn't good, then I repair the leak(s ) and re-test.

You do it right the first time. What I do is put the side on and line it up perfectly, then pre-drill through every single hole in the side panel. After pre-drilling, I remove the side panel again and check to make sure that each pre-drilled hole is drilled through a panel. If things are a bit "off", I may need to drill a new hole in a slightly different spot to ensure that the screw will go through the panel. The other thing is to use as many screws as you can. I typically like to use screws because they literally pull the panels together to ensure the PL squeeze out.

Also, if there is any doubt about whether the panels have come together properly I stand on the side of the cabinet while drilling more screws about every 3 inches to ensure the side panel is airtight to the inner panels. It's quite anal to do all this but you only have one chance to do it right.

Once the side panel is on, you won't be able to find leaks along the horn path, except in the last few feet before the mouth and inside the driver chamber.

The rubber hose method only works inside the driver chamber and areas where you can see and physically access.

[quote="Charles Jenkinson"][/quote]


Ryan, you may say it is being anal, but I'd rather that than have a leaky cab! All of my holes hit bang on so I haven't needed to re-drill or PL anything.

Anyway, I weathersealed the cab the other night and last night completed the driver flanges and finished off the cab. At 11:30, I decided to test

I used some tones, sweeps and also some tunes that I used audacity to HiPass (30Hz/48dB) and LoPass (100Hz/48dB). I ran roughly 0V through the cab (the needle barely deflected on the 10V range) and even at that volume, I could hear the quality. Even my Mum who hates this stuff and has no idea about PA, said that she could hear that it was clear and tight... just before she asked me to turn it off to avoid pissing off the neighbours The rent's may be annoying sometimes, but I love them (and their double garage) to bits!

I cannot wait to give it a little bit of stick tonight, but the big day comes next week sometime, when I will get an INuke NU3000DSP to properly control and power it

I will post pics of the finished inside when the side comes off for the PL job - give me a few days.

Looking forward, it is payday on Tuesday when I will be buying some PROPER ply (thinking radiator pine, but may go for birch - is pine lighter? softer? other advantages/disadvantages?) in order to build a pair of Otop12s. Then I will build the 2nd Tuba the following month.

Thanks Bill for a great design.

OUCH! Bloody Blue Aran have just jacked up the price of the Deltalite from £105 to £130, apparently after Eminence raised the price I was only a week away from picking up a pair for my OT12s at close to the £100 price - they seemed like the obvious choice for the price/weight/noise balancing act. Suddenly I am looking at 25% increase! The Kappalite 3012's were only £40 more, (so I thought), so I was leaning toward them, but they also have gone up (not by anywhere near as much though). Even considering the Basslite 2012 now. The Basslite seems to move more air than the 2512 and the Delta Pro... if this is the case, does it matter about their puny 150W power rating? If they move the air, does wattage even matter? The electricity is just a means to an end to get the air moving after all.

Am now starting to lean toward the 3012s, but it's getting pricey for that driver - £182. As I am also planning on buying the iNuke NU3000DSP amp (which seems to put out about 50V=312W @ 8ohms), would I be better off just sticking with the Deltalite (250W) - despite the price hike - as I can't really make use of that extra power handling with the 3012, or do I gain other benefits, even if not ramping it up to full?

I know it's a bit of a fish for opinions, but I had everything planned and it's all been thrown into turmoil!

Oh.. and can anyone enlighten me to the recommended drivers for the DR250 - am possibly thinking of heading down that route. I am happy building now after my successful Tuba build (which I found very easy), so maybe a 10" in a 250 could save me some money at the expense of increased build complexity. I'd gain a lot in volume too

Many thanks,

Aidan

I noticed the price changes as well. The 3012lf has come down 20 euro in price and the Lab12 is 20 euro up @ lean bussiness.
BP102 price dropped to £51, so you could buy 3 now and save money compared to the Lab. Basslite got cheaper aswel, 71 pounds now.

There have been no price changes from Eminence since January. All the neo's went down.

LelandCrooks wrote:There have been no price changes from Eminence since January. All the neo's went down.

Dollar went up, GBP went down i guess. For us mainland Europeans the English online shops got more interresting because of the devaluation of the pound.

escapemcp wrote:The Basslite seems to move more air than the 2512 and the Delta Pro... if this is the case, does it matter about their puny 150W power rating? If they move the air, does wattage even matter? The electricity is just a means to an end to get the air moving after all.

Any thoughts people? Am I right in my assumption? Thanks.

Since you said you will be catering to "free party" crew, who are known for turning amplifiers up to 11 and redlight mixers. I would go for power handling over high excursion at low levels.

Bas Gooiker wrote:Since you said you will be catering to "free party" crew, who are known for turning amplifiers up to 11 and redlight mixers. I would go for power handling over high excursion at low levels.

But that's what my limiter will be for Probably looking at Deltalite for now, and I may upgrade to 3012HO later, as the mounting holes are the same (within 1/10 of a mm).
Still wondering about about the 255cc Vd of the Delta vs 270cc of the Basslite though - I thought it was all about displacement, in which case the Basslite wins

escapemcp wrote: Probably looking at Deltalite for now, and I may upgrade to 3012HO later,

Baffle design and phase plug in the OT12 are different for these two drivers. No upgrade path there. So, if you want the 3012HO - better do it now.