Meet the new family

[LelandCrooks]

Get felt furniture glide tips. Put them directly under the bend where the handle goes into the hinge. It will still fold flat and kill the rattle. Been there done that with my original DR's.

[Chris_Allen]

Thanks Leland, but I'm not sure what they are. Could you post a picture or a link?

Is it just like a piece of felt with a sticky pad?

[WB]

handles on the side have a bit of a rattle where they lever ... annoying.

Those same handles are also available spring loaded. I'd stay away from lube though.

[David Carter]

Those same handles are also available spring loaded.

+1. I used the spring loaded ones on my DR250's and never once heard a rattle.

[LelandCrooks]

Yup, just round felt with sticky backing.

[dug dog]

So how DID you do those cool letters on the Titans? Are they routed somehow? The effect looks fantastic in the photos.

[bgavin]

A photo of the template would be nice.

[Chris_Allen]

Those same handles are also available spring loaded. I'd stay away from lube though.

They are spring loaded!

The rattle eminates from the joint - just so happens that I set the depth wrong (depth gauge slipped) on the two that rattle and ended up punching through the ply (I said they were prototypes!) so I might fill the backs with hot glue to reduce vibration.

[Chris_Allen]

So how DID you do those cool letters on the Titans? Are they routed somehow? The effect looks fantastic in the photos.

See this thread on page two.

[mottlefeeder]

...They are spring loaded!

The rattle eminates from the joint - just so happens that I set the depth wrong (depth gauge slipped) on the two that rattle and ended up punching through the ply (I said they were prototypes!) so I might fill the backs with hot glue to reduce vibration.

Chris, two further options for you to consider -
1) put silicone sealant in both ends of the plate that holds the handle on - it damps the spring.
2) If you use webbing to strap cabs together, take the webbing through/under the handles. First advantage, you can still use the handle: second advantage, pulling the handle out slightly puts the spring under tension, and in my case that stopped the vibration.

Regards

David

[Chris_Allen]

Hi David,

I haven't heard from you in quite a while.

I used cheap (really) ply, so I think I have an excessive vibration problem due to rigidity. I've added additional bracing tonight and I'm going to test tomorrow.

Full review coming soon - one thing is for sure, I didn't break the drivers in enough as they were tremendous on sunday. It's amazing how your concept of frequencies changes with these speakers. I am crossing mine at 107 Hz and they are still bassy!

[Slim]

Nice set up. I hope to build the same.

Can someone please explain this to me?

"I meant that 2x DR200's don't match 2x T39's when:

a) Using BP102's
b) You EQ the subs flat by dropping 60-100 by 4-6 dB."

Thanks.

[Gregory East]

!

[Chris_Allen]

Nice set up. I hope to build the same.

Can someone please explain this to me?

The optimal driver for the T39 is the 3012LF, it has substancially more output than the BP102. Due to my agressive EQ'ing of the sub to get it's frequency range flat it greatly reduced it's output from 60-100Hz.

Consequently, when paired with the DR200, I felt it was a little unbalanced.

However, since then the drivers have had a lot more of a workout and I don't believe the DR drivers were fully broken in, so I'm going to RTA again and drop the crossover frequency. So I may revise my opinion on balance once I get chance to remix the entire system.

Incidentally, because they were prototypes, I didn't install bracing all the way between the horn and the side of the cab, this is what was causing the vibration in the handles. With a longer brace, problem solved.

[Pixelmaster]

Really nice work! I especially like the way you "branded" the cabinets by routing in the name of the cabinet.

I bet your neighbors got nervous when they saw all the gear stacked up in the driveway!

Great job!