Omni12 (2x10) compared to a 2x12 + 6" conventional cab ??

[R2D2]

How would an Omni12 (2x10 for the bass, 8" for the mids/highs) compare to a conventional 2x12+8" cab, in terms of volume and sound?

Any ideas? These re basically my options. I want a 1 box solution that is powerfull enough for small gigs and portable. The omni12 is about the upper limit of portability.

Suggestions, ideas, welcome. Thanks.

[vlad335]

How would an Omni12 (2x10 for the bass, 8" for the mids/highs) compare to a conventional 2x12+8" cab, in terms of volume and sound?

Any ideas? These re basically my options. I want a 1 box solution that is powerfull enough for small gigs and portable. The omni12 is about the upper limit of portability.

Suggestions, ideas, welcome. Thanks.

I built an O12 with the two Bp102 option and I have to say after preliminary testing that this is the best cab I have ever played through. Punchy, deep, warm, clear, tight, it's got it. Most of all... It's incredibly loud! Shockingly so. The very first thing I did after sounding a note through the cab was go for the volume knob as it sounded as if my house was coming apart. My PLX 1202 puts out 325 watts into 4 ohms stereo and I find it hard to believe that 325 watts can be this loud.

After building so many BFM cabs you would think I would have learned by now.



So to answer your question. Yes! In my opinion, this cab would be more than powerful enough for small gigs. Small gigs and then some.

[Chris_Allen]

Not only a nice looking setup, but an impressive arsenal in the cabinet

[djohnson573]

vlad335, nice looking setup. Do you mind sharing what you are using for your preamp?

[vlad335]

Whoa... Added as a review by the mods I guess. That's cool, I was going to add a review after the gig tonight but this saves me making the thread. On the To-Do list today, install handles and a grill and then she's good to go.

vlad335, nice looking setup. Do you mind sharing what you are using for your preamp?

Thats a Behringer mic preamp I have been using for the past 2 months while my Alembic F1-X is getting worked on. If you look at my DIY pedalboard, you can see a good many Boss pedals most of which have been modded by Humphrey Audio. The Alembic had been losing gain and sent it to Mark to get a good going over. With this cab sounding so good with the Behringer, it's only going to get better with the Alembic.

Not only a nice looking setup, but an impressive arsenal in the cabinet

From a prior hobby. Mostly WW2 Mausers that I restored.

[vlad335]

Some build pics...













Couple things you will notice. First is I didn't use the recommended tweeter for this cab. It's a P.Audio PHT-406 that I had here that was going to go into a Trace Elliot 4-10 cab but never got around to it. Money was tight so I figured I would give it a go. Special thanks to Leland Crooks for checking out the sensitivity and specs and helping me out immensly.

Next is the use of sound deadener on the panels. Specifically a product called Peel and Seal I found at Lowes. I added pics of when I was applying it. Is it a significant improvement in the sound of the cab? I don't know. It certainly doesn't hurt anything and when I would rap on a untreated panel verses a treated panel, there is a notable sound difference so what the hell. It's cheap, easy to cut and apply. I already have the wood cut for the next cab and plan to use it sandwiched between two panels for the baffle as my next experiment.

I also added a brace in the cab to serve a couple purposes. As a place to mount the crossover components and to better mount recessed handles on the side of the cab. also to brace the mid horn a little better since I did a crappy job building and mounting it.

Can't wait to get this out tonight.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Next is the use of sound deadener on the panels. Specifically a product called Peel and Seal I found at Lowes. I added pics of when I was applying it. Is it a significant improvement in the sound of the cab? I don't know. .

That stuff is a 'might not help can't hurt' product. It will dampen high frequency panel resonances, but they fall so far outside the woofer passband that they're of no significance anyway. OTOH I hope you lined the cab with foam or poly batting, which is crucial to damp internal reflections, which are within the woofer passband.

[vlad335]

OTOH I hope you lined the cab with foam or poly batting, which is crucial to damp internal reflections, which are within the woofer passband.

Yes sir. Walmart's finest.

[bgavin]

Why are the T-nuts on the outside of the panel flanges?

[djtecthreat]

Why are the T-nuts on the outside of the panel flanges?

You know, I was wondering the exact same thing, but I wasn't sure why I was wondering it.

I remember looking and thinking "wow, my access panel looks nothing like his, why is that???"

Then I saw your post and then I'm thinking "Duhh"

[vlad335]

Why are the T-nuts on the outside of the panel flanges?

The answer is... I don't know. Chaulk it up to working too long late at night when I should have went to bed. They are Gorilla glued in so they are not going anywhere. However, the back panel seals up nicely though with no leaks.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Why are the T-nuts on the outside of the panel flanges?

The answer is... I don't know. Chaulk it up to working too long late at night when I should have went to bed. They are Gorilla glued in so they are not going anywhere..

Don't be so sure, there's a lot of air pressure pushing against the back, and vibration as well. I'd get those where they belong ASAP.

[LelandCrooks]

Sharp utility knife, cut around each nut, get through the top ply. Press them out with a c clamp, bolt partway into the nut and a block of wood with a hole drilled in it. My experience with Gorilla Glue is it's very strong, and very brittle. Once you exceed its strength, it's done, unlike PL which flexes and tears up everything.

[SoundInMotionDJ]

Sharp utility knife, cut around each nut, get through the top ply. Press them out with a c clamp, bolt partway into the nut and a block of wood with a hole drilled in it. My experience with Gorilla Glue is it's very strong, and very brittle. Once you exceed its strength, it's done, unlike PL which flexes and tears up everything.

+1

The "foam overspray" (for lack of a better term) of Gorilla Glue has ZERO strength...I tend to remove that whenever it will be visible. A good utility knife is your best bet. The bolt sticking out and C-clamp approach works well too.

--Stan Graves

[vlad335]

Thanks for the advice. The cab is loaded in with the band gear so I will have to get it out and get it fixed.