Tim A wrote: nothing less than 2" wide without a stick. Please don't ask me how I do that safely. First of all it's not safe, and secondly I'm not going to lend to anyone else's injury.
One good point for those learning a table saw: The blade height adjustment isn't just there to make the blade higher, it makes it lower too. I know it's difficult to make yourself lower it when going from 3/4" to 1/2", or 1/2" to 1/4", but the blade should be adjusted so it is just high enough to clear your workpiece. If you did happen to slip and have a catrastrophe, the lesser exposed blade will be of huge benefit.
Well said! But I have gone smaller than 2", though NOT smart on my half but like you said I have been around a table saw for a while now.
Like you said thats how I was taught also.
Tim A wrote: nothing less than 2" wide without a stick. Please don't ask me how I do that safely. First of all it's not safe, and secondly I'm not going to lend to anyone else's injury.
Well said! But I have gone smaller than 2", though NOT smart on my half but like you said I have been around a table saw for a while now.
Like you said thats how I was taught also.
I have gone smaller than 2" also... That's exactly what I was doing when Mr. Finger had a run-in with Mr. Blade. Guess who won?
Dave
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
I know it is not very often but some styles on door frames are smaller than 2.5" and some are well they can get small. When dealing with hard wood like oak or maple and birch I use a push stick, but the soft woods like pine and poplar I go through. ITS a VERY bad habit! no one should get into that kind of habit and I am trying to brake it. I now have a push stick under my table saw mounted through a hole in the stick. When that one wares down (and they will) I stop production and make another. or a few. I make mine out of anything and put a heal and an angle on the shoe part.
Tim A wrote:One good point for those learning a table saw: The blade height adjustment isn't just there to make the blade higher, it makes it lower too. I know it's difficult to make yourself lower it when going from 3/4" to 1/2", or 1/2" to 1/4", but the blade should be adjusted so it is just high enough to clear your workpiece. If you did happen to slip and have a catrastrophe, the lesser exposed blade will be of huge benefit.
Not only that, but the cut will be smoother when only a little of the blade is exposed above the cut. 1/4" is a good general guideline...but the specifics are generally printed on the inserts that come with the blade.
Thanks for the warning Robin, I will be more careful from now on. Not that I was consiously taking risks before, but you can still consider that at least one finger saved. Wishing you a good recovery and painless playing (instruments and tools).
BTW - I have been told that a lower blade will give a cleaner cut, too. So if not for safety, then at least lower the blade for a better cut and consider the extra safety a bonus. I think of it the other way around.
I'm very sorry to hear about that, one more reason fer me to be a paranoid so & so in the shop. I do hope that you get everything back together like before. (I had a run-in with a #10 tin can lid and some fine navy doctors that has the last joint of my pointer finger at a permanant 45* angle- it completely undermines the seriousness of any situation that requires me to stick said finger in some intransigent upstart's face.)
Sorry to hear that. But here in Mexico we use to said: accidents with a saw the most of the time occurs only one time, I can assure you it not be next time because you be extra carefully. I lost a half of my left thumb on a offset machine (printshop) but i consider myself lucky, i have friends who lost a complete arm in this machines (i do not how but even toes!!!), so consider yourself lucky, the saw let your hand attached to your arm. Recovery soon.
It does. I really wish they'd come out with a contractor model. The cabinet saw is 2 or 3 grand, really only for pro's in that price range. They need a model in the 1k range.
The guy that invented it shopped it to every major manufacturer. They all turned him down, so he started his own saw company.
When I was investigating the Sawstop, (I want) I went through the website and the guy's philosophy is to make it as idiot-proof as possible. there is a replacable (70) cartridge; to stop the saw in time, it slams a chunk of aluminum into the blade- end of the line fer the blade, but yer finger is still attached. I think that the price would go down considerably if it were mass-produced. I believe that once that type of saw gets noticed by the consumers, few people would want anything else (I wouldn't). I am purt' near sure that the reason the big boys havent started making them is that once the safe(er) saw is available, consumer advocates will start whippin' up on'em fer not doing it sooner! (at least that's what my inner conspiracy theorist sez...)
There is no technical problem however complex, that cannot be solved or finessed by a direct application of brute strength and ignorance.
"Gimme the hammer... Naaaw not that one, the freakin' big one- I'll MAKE it fit!"
Frankenspeakers wrote: I am purt' near sure that the reason the big boys havent started making them is that once the safe(er) saw is available, consumer advocates will start whippin' up on'em fer not doing it sooner! (at least that's what my inner conspiracy theorist sez...)
That is exactly the reason, as stated by the inventor, from the mfg. Sometimes you DO need to wear a tinfoil hat.
Well, things didn't turn out so well. I had to go for outpatient surgery yesterday, and had from the tip to just below the top knuckle (just over an inch) amputated.
On a more positive note, a friend of mine came around and helped me do a bunch on the second O10, and my GRR Rippers arrived yesterday, so no more danger from ripping narrow pieces of wood...
rwalkerphl wrote:Well, things didn't turn out so well. I had to go for outpatient surgery yesterday, and had from the tip to just below the top knuckle (just over an inch) amputated.
On a more positive note, a friend of mine came around and helped me do a bunch on the second O10, and my GRR Rippers arrived yesterday, so no more danger from ripping narrow pieces of wood...
Sorry to hear about the loss, but glad that it wasn't worse. Best wishes for a speedy recovery. My accident wasn't quite as bad, but I still know how frustrating recovery time can be. For me it was about two months.
Let us know how you get along with the GRR Rippers...
Dave
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
Sorry to hear that, hope you have a speedy recovery. i know it's late now but I found this on the net :http://www.sawstop.com/there's a video on it in action
" Everyone Has a Photographic Memory, Just Not Everyone Has Film In The Camera"
Guess who won? 
