Simple circle jig

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

http://routerbitworld.com/Freud_75_102_ ... 75-102.htm

[bgavin]

That is a $10 savings over the Lowes price.

[LelandCrooks]

That is a $10 savings over the Lowes price.

Another addition to the site. Hadn't considered router bits.

[bgavin]

The up-spiral cutting bit is one to stock, for sure. I'll buy one from you.

See if you can find a tapered cutting bit, for the tapered speaker holes in the plans. 45-degrees seems to be too steep an angle. Perhaps 60 degrees would be better. The intent is having enough meat on the bottom side of the baffle for the T-nut flange.

[SoundInMotionDJ]

The up-spiral cutting bit is one to stock, for sure. I'll buy one from you.

See if you can find a tapered cutting bit, for the tapered speaker holes in the plans. 45-degrees seems to be too steep an angle. Perhaps 60 degrees would be better. The intent is having enough meat on the bottom side of the baffle for the T-nut flange.

Use a 14 deg dovetail bit, and cut from the side where the speaker will mount.

http://routerbitworld.com/Freud_22_104_ ... 22-104.htm

--Stan Graves

[bgavin]

Actually, you have to cut from the side opposite where the speaker mounts. The smaller diameter of the baffle cutout hole is where the T-nut mounts, which is on the side opposite the speaker.

I'd like to find a chamfer router bit that is wider, closer to the chuck. Then I wouldn't have to flip the board over.

Something like this

Or this

[SoundInMotionDJ]

Actually, you have to cut from the side opposite where the speaker mounts.

You're correct. That's what I get for typing without having the plans and the bit in front of me...

--Stan Graves

[LelandCrooks]

Dovetail bit?

http://routerbitworld.com/Freud_22_122_ ... 22-122.htm

Mount your own bearing on the top.

[bgavin]

Nope. It has to be a Chamfer bit. Wider at the chuck side, narrow at the tip. I want to use it with a Jasper Jig to cut tapered baffle cutouts with the smaller diameter on the T-nut side.

I've been using a 45-degree bit, but this is too much. A 60-degree bit would be much better. It doesn't remove as much material.

Link to Hi-Res Photo

The link will show exactly what I mean. This is for the MCM 55-2421 driver that I used in my experimental HT sub. Note how much wood is available on the bottom side for the T-nuts.

[LelandCrooks]

http://www.freudtools.com/p-151-chamfer-bits.aspx

I have easy access to the 15, 25, and 45. 40-102, 40-100, 40-104 and 40-106.

[DJPhatman]

I have the 45 1" with the bearing...I use a circle tempate underneath for the bearing to ride on...can't post pics anymore, digicam broke

[bgavin]

I think the 25-degree bit would be the ticket. It is halfway between the 45, which is too steep, and vertical.

[DaveK]

I needed to cut some 15" driver holes and this is the solution I came up with. Use a straight router bit and a circle jig to cut a 13.5" hole. Then widen the top of the hole to 14" using a 45 degree chamfer bit with a bearing and set at 1/4" depth. I didn't need the circle jig for the chamfer because the bearing rode on the inside of the hole.