DR250 handle question

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dextermcneil
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DR250 handle question

#1 Post by dextermcneil »

I've been sorting out the final build details for 8 DR250s before I start making with sawdust in the next couple weeks and wanted to ask about handles for them. I like the Penn Elcom H1105 type like Dave Perry used on his DR280 cabs. Will there be problems with the dish of the handle projecting into the horn area on a DR250? I don't really want to use the spring loaded type if I don't have to.

Thanks!

Dexter

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DAVID_L_PERRY
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#2 Post by DAVID_L_PERRY »

When I asked bill about this there was no issue with the projection on the DR290/280 horn.

This is the projection in the DR280 horn flare(I ended up flipping the handles through 90deg from what is shown here):-
Image

Hole cut:-
Image

Finished job:-
Image

Dave

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fender3x
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#3 Post by fender3x »

I am always floored a bit by Dave's craftsmanship and attention to details, and his ways is probably the best way of doing things...so this is not advice, just wanted to share an alternative I put in mine...

I put in Titan style handles in the back of the cab. I don't plan to put grills in mine, so the edges make additional hand-holds.

Image

Image

Haven't finished mine, so I don't quite know how practical these handles will be once I get the driver and hardware installed...but with the cab "empty" they seem really practical. These handles can't disrupt the horn path since they aren't in it. They can't rattle, and there is no potential of leaks. They are easier to install and don't need reinforcement like recessed handles. So...I thought they'd be worth a try. I also like that you can see a bit of the "big curve" through the handle opening.

This is an experiment and not quite a recommendation...but I thought I'd put it here under the "for what it's worth" category.

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LelandCrooks
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#4 Post by LelandCrooks »

That appears to be a very good idea. Save $5-$10 on handles, no sealing worries. Are they awkward to carry with back handles?
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
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Bill Fitzmaurice
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#5 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

fender3x wrote:
This is an experiment and not quite a recommendation...but I thought I'd put it here under the "for what it's worth" category.
This is a very good idea. They're a more time consuming method than a commercial handle, but once again if you've got more time than money why not? I think a single set mid-high on the box would be adequate and give better balance, just carry the box face down.

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fender3x
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#6 Post by fender3x »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ...if you've got more time than money...
Ha! I certainly fit the latter category! Unskilled noobies should stay away from DR builds if they are trying to save time ;-)

I don't know why I find it more comfortable to have the handles at the corners...I think because I like to have lots of hand holds. It hasn't been awkward yet, but I have not finished yet...so we'll see. Judging by my experience moving it around to work on it, the combination of having hand holds at all of the corners of the box (no grill on mine) makes it relatively easy to horse around.

As to the time issue... I had the router guide from my Titan build, and it went quickly to make the cuts. I followed Bill's directions for making the router guide out of oak...maybe I am now just tempted to put these kinds of handles on everything ;-)

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Tim A
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#7 Post by Tim A »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:
fender3x wrote:
This is an experiment and not quite a recommendation...but I thought I'd put it here under the "for what it's worth" category.
This is a very good idea. They're a more time consuming method than a commercial handle, but once again if you've got more time than money why not? I think a single set mid-high on the box would be adequate and give better balance, just carry the box face down.
It's not even more time consuming, really. If you have a jig made up for your router you can knock those out in seconds.

Nicely done 3X!

Someone move this to Tips and Techniques!

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fender3x
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#8 Post by fender3x »

Tim Ard wrote:
Someone move this to Tips and Techniques!
There is no higher praise ;-) Thanks!

dextermcneil
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#9 Post by dextermcneil »

I also greatly admire Dave's workmanship. The overall look that Dave achieved on his DR280 cabs has inspired me to really consider the finish details on my yet to be built DR250s. That said, I really like the way the Titan style cutout handles worked for fender3x. I'm wondering how the box will 'handle' when there's a grill on the front - no easy place to get your hands at that end. And I'd want transit covers for sure! Gawd, so many decisions to make.... If there's no effect from the handle dish sticking into the horn path, I'll probably go with the 1105 handles - I just like the look and the fact that I can put them at the balance point of the cab making it easier to lift and stack.

Thanks again everyone!

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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#10 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

dextermcneil wrote: If there's no effect from the handle dish sticking into the horn path, I'll probably go with the 1105 handles - I just like the look and the fact that I can put them at the balance point of the cab making it easier to lift and stack.

Thanks again everyone!
Dish handles are OK if they're small. Monster size dishes will block too much pathway.

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Harley
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#11 Post by Harley »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:This is a very good idea. They're a more time consuming method than a commercial handle,
But if one jigged up for them when running batches, this would be a great way of doing things and no more time consuming than doing recessed handles with tee nuts.

It would go well with the alum butt-horn mod of mine as it would leave a clean area at the back that can be seen into.

Can't wait to get started on my next batches.....sometime in Dec!

Harley
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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#12 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Harley wrote:
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:This is a very good idea. They're a more time consuming method than a commercial handle,
But if one jigged up for them when running batches, this would be a great way of doing things and no more time consuming than doing recessed handles with tee nuts.
Absolutely. As is usually the case what takes time is creating the jig. I don't see anyone doing that for one cab, but it's only logical to do so if you're doing two or more.

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fender3x
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#13 Post by fender3x »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Absolutely. As is usually the case what takes time is creating the jig. I don't see anyone doing that for one cab, but it's only logical to do so if you're doing two or more.
I made one for just one T39 build...and then remade it for the DR build...probably not logical, but with Adura Mazda as my witness, I will find more things to put handles on until it is logical ;-)

DaveK
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#14 Post by DaveK »

Love the handles and the flatback DR is perfect for them because of the empty cavity.

One tip I picked up here and used on my T39 is to glue a piece of 1/4 round dowel in the corner of the handle. It makes for a much more comfortable grip.

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