snowphish wrote: ↑Fri Jul 15, 2022 8:25 am
That's pretty irrelevant, I said during measurements I was muting the other drivers - and that I was pushing my crossover well below / above the usual point.
I am pretty sure I was pushing the crossover point well below the 1k - so it should've been responsive below 2k and instead of just fell sharply.
Next time I have the rig up I will try to get better measurements, or maybe I will try to do this in the parking lot of our storage area...
It's all relevant in getting the information we need to help you solve your problem remotely. I know it's frustrating. I've been there, for sure. I'm here to help.
If it were me, this is the route I'd take in getting it sorted out. If you follow these steps, it will result in the information I need to help you diagnose the problem.
- Pull one cab out of storage and test it in the parking lot
-
Factory reset the Driverack, save any settings you need prior
- Set the highpass on the highs LR18 @ 1.2kHz
- Set the Lowpass on the mids LR18 @ 1.2kHz
- Mute the Tweeters
- Using a dB meter and playing a 1.2kHz sine wave, trim the gain on the woofer so that you're reading as close as possible to 94.00dB wherever you're measuring from, on axis
- Make a note (written or digital) of the exact dB reading. If your meter indicates out to the hundredth, note the exact, to the hundredth reading as best you can.
- Mute the woofer, unmute the tweeter
- Trim the gain on the Tweeters so that you're reading 94.00dB at the same location you took the woofer reading from
- Make a note (written or digital) of the exact dB reading
- Unmute the woofer, so they're both playing 1.2kHz at the same time
- If the volume has gone down, invert the phase on the tweeters. What does the dB Meter read now?
- Make a note (written or digital) of the exact dB reading and whether or not the polarity needed to be inverted
- Do not adjust the volume or gains from where they are in the tests above. Use the same volume and gain settings for the rest of these tests
- With the test mic in the same location you previously took your dB reading from, use SMAART to generate a response graph. Name it, save it, screenshot it, I wanna see it.
- Phase align the woofer and tweeter
- Make a note (written or digital) of the settings made
- Use SMAART to generate a response graph. Name it, save it, screenshot it, I wanna see it.
- Mute the woofer
- Use SMAART to generate a response graph. Name it, save it, screenshot it, I wanna see it.
- Disable/remove the crossover on the Tweeter
- Use SMAART to generate a response graph. Name it, save it, screenshot it, I wanna see it.
- Mute the Tweeters, unmute the Woofer
- Use SMAART to generate a response graph. Name it, save it, screenshot it, I wanna see it.
- Disable/remove the crossover on the Woofer
- Use SMAART to generate a response graph. Name it, save it, screenshot it, I wanna see it.
- Unmute both and enable both crossovers again
- Run the Driverack's autoEQ
- Use SMAART to generate a response graph. Name it, save it, screenshot it, I wanna see it.
- If there's a way to screenshot the Driverack AutoEQ corrections, I'd like to see that too
You might wanna put a piece of masking tape or use some other method of identifying the cab you test so you're able to identify and use it as reference in testing all the other cabs for uniform polarity among the herd in the future