Ryno — new from Illinois on the Mississippi

[Seth]

T-39 I looked at also
That’s why I want all the plans —- will look at thumb drive adapter for iPad
Am I replying correctly here ?
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Like this?

Looks good. Well done. Easy peezy.

[RYNO20]

The T39 will do what you want for rock and roll. And there is no need for the Lab12. Use the 3012LF. Same output, lighter weight and cheaper.

The driverack is an essential tool to protect the drivers in the subs. Unlike a front-loaded speaker that will fart-out when it's getting close to the edge, the folded horn filters that out and you won't know it's going to blow until it does. Thus, a limiter is a must.

Driveracks are available used all the time in the $200 range used. You don't need the newest model. A PA, PA+, or a PX (if you are only using it as a two-way system) will all do what you need.

And we can help you set it up.

Us young 63 year-olds are happy to help you old geezers.....

Thanks KID lol

[RYNO20]

Got to know what buttons to push
I ordered all the plans tonight

[jimbo7]

[Seth]

...I ordered all the plans tonight

I sense a pair of OTop12's and T39's in your future.

Here's a couple threads with info you're likely to appreciate.

Rules for Subwoofer Placement and Stacking
Setting Limiters

[RYNO20]

Of course questions are coming jimbo7 lol
Yeah read some of the placement rules Seth , thanks —- so much to do
What’s the red boxes and other flashing things on the thread things? Anyone?

[RYNO20]

...I ordered all the plans tonight

I sense a pair of OTop12's and T39's in your future.

Here's a couple threads with info you're likely to appreciate.

Rules for Subwoofer Placement and Stacking
Setting Limiters

Well I am stubborn, but T-48 1-15 LAB wide will be standing in corner of my shop by spring
Then in my house I will think about lol

[RYNO20]

4r576t.jpg

But of course
What would the world be without question

[Bruce Weldy]

Well I am stubborn, but T-48 1-15 LAB wide will be standing in corner of my shop by spring
Then in my house I will think about lol

If you are going with the 15, then you really should consider the 3015LF over the Lab15. They both have to be limited to the same amount of voltage - so there is really no advantage with the Lab. It's 15 lbs. heavier and costs about $85 more.

[Seth]

If you are going with the 15, then you really should consider the 3015LF over the Lab15. They both have to be limited to the same amount of voltage - so there is really no advantage with the Lab. It's 15 lbs. heavier and costs about $85 more.

I wouldn't go so far as to say there's no advantage. The LAB15's Vd is higher and has a slight advantage in maximum output. And that same voltage into a 6 ohm driver will contribute to achieving the little extra Vd. If it's not intended to be a mobile system and just lives it's life in the corner of the shop, the weight difference in the drivers isn't really of any concern.

That said, if it were me in that situation, I'd probably choose to save the money and go with the 3015LF... and build 2.

I'm a huge fan of the idea of the sensitivity of the 36" wide T48. It's phenomenal. 100 watts would be quite sufficient to move A LOT of air. Just too big to do what I want to do. But, I think it's a great choice if you have the room/space. Either driver will suite just fine. The 3015LF doesn't require driver chamber reducers, so that's another positive point for the 3015LF... reducing build steps and complexity (and further weight reduction).

[RYNO20]

If you are going with the 15, then you really should consider the 3015LF over the Lab15. They both have to be limited to the same amount of voltage - so there is really no advantage with the Lab. It's 15 lbs. heavier and costs about $85 more.

I wouldn't go so far as to say there's no advantage. The LAB15's Vd is higher and has a slight advantage in maximum output. And that same voltage into a 6 ohm driver will contribute to achieving the little extra Vd. If it's not intended to be a mobile system and just lives it's life in the corner of the shop, the weight difference in the drivers isn't really of any concern.

That said, if it were me in that situation, I'd probably choose to save the money and go with the 3015LF... and build 2.

I'm a huge fan of the idea of the sensitivity of the 36" wide T48. It's phenomenal. 100 watts would be quite sufficient to move A LOT of air. Just too big to do what I want to do. But, I think it's a great choice if you have the room/space. Either driver will suite just fine. The 3015LF doesn't require driver chamber reducers, so that's another positive point for the 3015LF... reducing build steps and complexity (and further weight reduction).

it will be fun , first will build one ,then maybe 2 but after some voice quality uppers . Not that mine are bad but once I put a crossover 4 way to it all I now only like certain CDs very loud.drums have to be miked right etc , picky old man now. Thanks guys been reading up on dbx stuff , thought the only compressor I needed was for air lol

[Tom Smit]

(clip) ... thought the only compressor I needed was for air lol

[RYNO20]

Update time lol

T-48 36 wide LAB 15 all cut and baffle cut and gluing .
New DriveRack PA2 (260$) showed up today , I had to take out the Rane 23s (both)and EQ Rane, so I could go backwards to a 3-way thru the DR, okay now I’m gonna have to figure out to build a crossover to use the very highs .

Read the manual 2 times before it got here — it’s up and running on my existing system except for upper HF driver or tweeer. Of course I have no clue how to really give it the numbers it needs —- yeah used the Wizard —- then manually edited copied #8 for my system— yeah have the RTA mic , not frustrated just have a huge lack of what the ______
Knowledge.

Sub is one PEAVEY SP-118 600 was xover with Rane 23s at 80hz . The main is peavey SP-5 15825 50.1hz 200 watt vas 132.4, qts .326, vd 227 was xover at 1K then to BM-D750-8 to 7K then to tweeters. The BM-D750 handles the highs ok .
Amps are peavey 1500 bridged for sub 1000 watts, peavey IPR2 7500 for the mains 15 , peavey IRP2 3000 to the BM-D750.
Extra peavey 900 used to run the tweeters

Never had any problems and have used my dB meter to see no more than 105 for awhile, great recording I watch for clipping for the sub only gets a flicker if I’m over doing it.
All attenuation is all the way except the Allen & Heath Z10 mixer. Use my IPad Pro, my iPod, CDPlayer for sources.

T-48 and top haven’t figured out yet , I like horns for upper voice, I like Bill makes wooden horns, I did get all his plans and figured out how to use USB with iPad works great.

Please comment good or bad nobody thinks the same and I can learn even if it’s not what I want.

[himhimself]

Never had any problems and have used my dB meter to see no more than 105 for awhile, great recording I watch for clipping for the sub only gets a flicker if I’m over doing it.
All attenuation is all the way except the Allen & Heath Z10 mixer. Use my IPad Pro, my iPod, CDPlayer for sources.

Get the limiter figured out on your driverack for your sub so you don't silence that LAB without seeing it coming. Clip lights aren't going to do it with a horn. You're gonna have a rockin' shop

[RYNO20]

Never had any problems and have used my dB meter to see no more than 105 for awhile, great recording I watch for clipping for the sub only gets a flicker if I’m over doing it.
All attenuation is all the way except the Allen & Heath Z10 mixer. Use my IPad Pro, my iPod, CDPlayer for sources.

Get the limiter figured out on your driverack for your sub so you don't silence that LAB without seeing it coming. Clip lights aren't going to do it with a horn. You're gonna have a rockin' shop

Oh yeah ! Limiter! Trust me I’m reading and YouTube about the DRPA2 , it helps a bit. Learning from previous post on limiters setting , yup got to learn voltage specs on what I have now and familiarize myself with this old stuff before plugging in the new. Learning curve and build time should equal out lol.