SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:43 pm
So, let's chat a little about wood fillers. I like bondo. However, it clogs up sandpaper like no one's business. I like the bondo putty spot filler in the tube too. Great for a little fill in here and there and doesn't seem to clog sandpaper. But, it's not really appropriate for skimming an entire panel.
What I'd like to find is a filler that I can spread over an entire panel and sand without clogging sand paper. Fairly priced, easy to use, quick drying, and less chemically smelling would be side benefits.
What do you guys use and recommend?
ok, gotta ask.....why would you want to skim a whole panel? It doesn't have to be absolutely flat and smooth as a baby's butt. Duratex handles all the tiny stuff. I have only used the bondo in a tube to fill brad and screw holes, then slap on the paint and duratex.
If your plywood is so bad that you need to cover the whole thing.....well, then you need to get better plywood.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:43 pm
What do you guys use and recommend?
I've always used drywall mud to good success. Doesn't take long to dry. I've used it to mask the grain on entire boxes and it does a good job. Not much smell and sands like a dream. Although, 40 - 60 grit sand paper will eat through to the wood in seconds so I use 120 grit and only make quick passes to smooth it out.
Otop 12 x 4 (Delta Pro 12-450a) 2x melded, 2x straight
Titan 39 x 4 (3012LF) 20" wide
SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:43 pm
What do you guys use and recommend?
I've always used drywall mud to good success. Doesn't take long to dry. I've used it to mask the grain on entire boxes and it does a good job. Not much smell and sands like a dream. Although, 40 - 60 grit sand paper will eat through to the wood in seconds so I use 120 grit and only make quick passes to smooth it out.
If you are just using paint, then grain can show through.....that ain't happening with two coats of flat black, then two or three coats of duratex.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
I was eyeballing Elmer's Probond Woodfiller as a possibility. Anyone have experience with it? I watched a couple YouTube's on it, and it looks like it has the consistency of drywall mud. Although it's indoor/outdoor, so must have something in it that makes it okay to get wet once it's dried.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 2:08 pm
So, we have:
1) buy better wood
2) Drywall mud
Anyone else?
I was eyeballing Elmer's Probond Woodfiller as a possibility. Anyone have experience with it? I watched a couple YouTube's on it, and it looks like it has the consistency of drywall mud. Although it's indoor/outdoor, so must have something in it that makes it okay to get wet once it's dried.
So, do you have big knots? Even AC plywood will usually give you a knot-free side to use. Even BC is usually ok...as long as you use the correct side facing out.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Well, you could spray on a coat of Rage Gold... works wonders for auto body filling. But as already said, better plywood is the best answer. Is the wood really that bad? Duratex can truly cover a multitude of sins.
2xT30 (20", 3012LF)
2xT30 (21", 3012LF)
4xOtop J-array (Beta12, melded/straight piezos)
Truck Tuba (MCM) Next up: 2xJack12 or family of table tubas
SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 2:08 pm
So, we have:
1) buy better wood
2) Drywall mud
Anyone else?
I was eyeballing Elmer's Probond Woodfiller as a possibility. Anyone have experience with it? I watched a couple YouTube's on it, and it looks like it has the consistency of drywall mud. Although it's indoor/outdoor, so must have something in it that makes it okay to get wet once it's dried.
You missed a post.
Go back to the bottom of the last page...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel. Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 2:45 pm
You missed a post.
Go back to the bottom of the last page...
You're right! I did miss it. Thanks for pointing that out. I suppose it's possible I'm mixing it lean. I'll try a little more hardener and see what happens.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 2:17 pm
So, do you have big knots? Even AC plywood will usually give you a knot-free side to use. Even BC is usually ok...as long as you use the correct side facing out.
This is CD. It's got a real rough side and a rough side. LOL Fortunately, they've cut out and filled the big knots. However, it's the splits deeply grooved grain of some of the panels that I'm wanting to fill and level. I find that if I hunt and fill blemishes one by one, I typically miss some. It's my preference to just skin and sand the whole thing.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
himhimself wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 2:32 pm
Is the wood really that bad? Duratex can truly cover a multitude of sins.
It may or may not be that bad. I just don't want to find out the hard way that it is and have to grind the DuraTex off to fill something I could have done beforehand... then try to blend the repair/repaint. I want my cabs to look as absolutely perfect as I can manage. I'm not going crazy and blocking everything. Just a skin and sand, two if needed, and I won't have to worry if the DuraTex will hide it or not.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
himhimself wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 2:32 pm
Is the wood really that bad? Duratex can truly cover a multitude of sins.
It may or may not be that bad. I just don't want to find out the hard way that it is and have to grind the DuraTex off to fill something I could have done beforehand... then try to blend the repair/repaint. I want my cabs to look as absolutely perfect as I can manage. I'm not going crazy and blocking everything. Just a skin and sand, two if needed, and I won't have to worry if the DuraTex will hide it or not.
Are you wishing right about now that you had gone ahead and bought the good plywood? By the time you spend all the money and time trying to get that stuff presentable....you are probably going in the hole if your time is worth even 10 bucks an hour.
As ol' DJ Phatman (RIP) used to say, "Buy once, Cry once."
However, if you ever do try Baltic Birch....you'll never go back...just warning ya'....
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 4:37 pm
Are you wishing right about now that you had gone ahead and bought the good plywood? By the time you spend all the money and time trying to get that stuff presentable....you are probably going in the hole if your time is worth even 10 bucks an hour.
As ol' DJ Phatman (RIP) used to say, "Buy once, Cry once."
However, if you ever do try Baltic Birch....you'll never go back...just warning ya'....
At the moment, I do not regret the route I've chosen. It's not that big of a deal. Would just like to investigate other filler options.
I'll be doing the shorty SLAP's in BB. The Alpha 6's arrived today. As of a couple days ago, the lumber yard is still open. Probably pick a sheet up Tues or Wed. I'll put those together before I get the 4 30" T39's started.
The choice of material was driven by weight not dollars. So, it would be buy once, cry every time I lift them.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
So, I don't know if you guys can see it well enough in the photo. But, there are lines down the side in the DuraTex, left by the roller. And other areas that are a little patchy with less texture on the back. I'd like to do something so that there are no lines or patches showing. Any thoughts on how to do that? Do I need to put on another thick heavy coat, or a light coat, or thin it out, or ??? What's the trick?
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
It's just a matter of touch.....once the duratex is spread, keep going over it both directions and at an angle, then finish with very, very light passes in a straight line overlapping...
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sun Mar 29, 2020 10:36 pm
It's just a matter of touch.....once the duratex is spread, keep going over it both directions and at an angle, then finish with very, very light passes in a straight line overlapping...
So, do you think I should sand the existing texture down first or just go right over the top of what's already there?
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
